Stinger

While my Banshee is not rideable, I've been riding my RM125 dirtbike. It developed a small sputter at powerband onset that has now turned into a refusal to accelerate over about 4 grand. It spits, sputters, backfires through the intake, etc. unless you let off the throttle some. Engine only has about 15 hours on a complete rebuild top and lower end. I've pulled the carb and cleaned it out twice as I thought it seemed like there was a chunk of crap plugging the main jet at times. No change. Checked the reeds and they are fine. Compression in 157psi cold. It also has a strange smell once it warms up...I can't even figure out how to describe it. Any ideas?

Turbos don't care how many cylinders there are, just that it gets enough exhaust flow to spin the turbine which will in turn spin the compressor and create boost. Bottom line is each turbo has a flow/horsepower range, stay in that range and all is well, get below that range and you'll run into compressor surge, get over that range and you will be chocking off the flow of the engine and if bad enough, loose boost pressure as rpm increases, all of which kill power to varying extents. I'm no internet bullshitter either, I currently own 6 turbo cars and have 2 more that I'm in the works of building. I'm currently running 24psi in my Mustang. I also designed a turbo header that I sell, as well as turbos, turbo exhaust systems, intercoolers, intercooler tubing, etc.

You can't compare engines of different types cc for cc. Diesel's and gas engines don't compare that way as a 12 liter diesel and a ~6 liter gas engine would use roughly the same size turbo. I would assume the same could be said for a 2 stroke vs a 4 stroke. The 2 stroke would "double" in size which would mean a Banshee would be considered ~700cc in turbo sizing compared to a 4 stroke. Also, a metro makes about 35hp to the wheels without a turbo...about the same as a stock banshee.

No, not even close...

Best bet would be to search...it's a ~35 dollar mod that advances the spark timing.

Actually, compressor surge is caused by the airflow characteristics of the engine being on the "left side" of the surge line on a compressor flow map. This causes the compressor wheel to "cavitate" in the air. In most cases, it destroys itself rather quickly. The surge caused by closing the throttle body is a completely different matter (and you where right about it's description). I've been meaning to get hold of a guy that lives about 15 minutes from me...he built the turbo Banshee that set the sand drags record at Little Sahara about 5 years ago. Stinger

Sounds like a good deal but not cheap enough for what I'm looking for...

I'm looking for a 250R ATV for my step brother. He's only got about 1500 to spend so I'd prefer it be around there or less. I don't care if it runs or not, we can fix/rebuild/assemble one, we just don't have much $$$ to spend. As long as it is 95-100% complete it's fine. I'm in Central Kansas and would prefer to not have to drive more than 4-5 hours to pick it up. So either it be located within that region or be willing to meet half way for something farther away. PM's would be the best way to contact me. Thanks.

As stated, I need a harness for my 98 Shee. I'm not looking to spend a fortune, I'll build one myself if I can't find one for a reasonable price. PM's will get a faster responce. Thanks.

It's not available here...87 is regular, 89-90 is midgrade, 91 is premium.

I've used a rigid hone and a spring hone. The spring hone worked great with stones that were ~3" long. I've tried a ball hone and the balls kept trying to destroy the ports.

I picked up an adjustable timing plate and I need to know what I can probably get away with a still run pump gas. I've Milled the stock head to 21cc which gets me 150psi compression. Premium fuel here is 91 octane. I'm at 1600ft elevation. I'm wanting to try +4 but I don't know if I can get away with that much advance. I'm afraid I won't be able to "hear" detonation if it's too much and I'll have a meltdown. I can here detonation in my Turbo Mustang but it's not screaming loud like the Shee.. Is +4 too much?

Plastics recieved...look good. I didn't know you only lived an hour from me

There are basically 3 types of hones: 1) Ball Hone 2) Spring Hone 3) Rigid Hone #1 won't work for 2 strokes, #2 will work fine for a light hone and is what the parts store will have. #3 is what machine shops and such use to ensure the bore is straight when it's honed. In other words, you should be fine doing it yourself, just make sure you spray some liquid in the bores to clean out the material as you grind it away and make sure you move up and down to get the hatches to cross at an angle of about 30 degrees.

I probably already have it in my watch list...that doesn't answer any of my questions though.

I'm looking to buy a wiring harness for my 98 shee but I don't want to get one that won't plug right in unless I find a smokin' deal. From what I can gather, there are three different harnesses, is this correct? What years did they change the harnesses/What years are interchangeable? Thanks.

I'll take the blue tank plastic if you'll PM me with a total shipped to 67490 and your paypal info. Do you have a blue radiator cover?

I replied to your email...no response????

2 strokes don't really have a "redline" but your stocker won't make any more power over 7.5-8 grand or so.

Can I see a pic of the blue tank plastic? [email protected]

Must have been looking early in the weekend since I was sitting there in camp with nothing to do from about 2pm saturday until mid Sunday...ah well.

I hate chasing electrical problems as well...what a PITA. Can you be more specific about rerouting the stator grounds? Where do they attach now and where did you put yours?

I here that, I broke within a few hours of getting there as well, I don't know what the hell happened though, here is the thread: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=43942 Did you see the big black hearse?

Already swapped in a known good CDI. The only part I haven't swapped is the stator...because it's not a quick swap. I think it's about got to be a problem with the wiring harness...

OK, now I've unplugged the kill switch and I'm working on checking the key switch...still no go.