badassbanshee479

wheelie bar would help and adding a lock up would help too... then ya could set your clutch up to slip off the line and then have the lock up lock the clutch up so it quits slipping after the launch.... this will greatly improve your 60ft times on concrete.

wheelman chassis makes a quality swingarm hit um up. I would ditch the stock carrier and go t a honda style carrier if your gonna have an arm built. Easier to adjust and no chance of getting the axle crooked while adjusting the chain

I just went to the local auto parts store that sells spark plug caps and found on thats a 90* angle and has a stud in the one end so it would screw onto the spark plug wire. it was made by ngk and it was plastic. will see if I can find the box and get ya a part number

check out detroit ball bearing in livoina mi..... they can match just about any bearing ya take to them and they carry all kinds of different brands. I have also seen trans and crank bearings in FAST racings website.

the trans will help for sure.... but I would work on that 60ft time..... guys are seeing 1.2-1.3 sec 60 ft times on concrete......

i had my stock frame cut to the very bare minimum and it took me 3-4years of beating it threw the whooped out dunes and countless number of 300 ft passes to crack it. Just keep an eye on all of the welds and fix as necessary. Only place I ended up breaking mine was on the back side of the frame where the front shock tabs where welded on. I cut the stock mounts off and replaced them with small tabs instead of the big ol stock mounts. If I did one again I would cut the bar out infront of the mount and behind the mount and then replace it with a piece of chrome alloy and then weld my tabs to it.

i use either alil silicone or some wheel bearing grease... i also stretch them out just a tad before i put them in there grooves

try out the search function bud... there are a bunch of threads on this

theres alot more to it than just compression level to determine octane needed, dome design timing porting etc all are factors that need to be considered.

its almost as cool as building an 18dm to race 10mills in the dunes..... lol just fuckin with ya brian.

toomey will sell ya just the silencers..... but fyi they are aluminum so you could just have um polished instead of spending the money on chrome. (the silencers that is)

hit up one of the site sponsors I am sure they can hook ya up with what ya need

figured newbies would be blowing this thread up..... lol

who ported the motor? I would contact them and have them custom cut a set of domes for ya... they will know where the port timings are and what works with there setup.... easier than trying to make off the shelf domes work

supposed to be in the teens the next few nights and only highs in the 20s during the day.... ice forms pretty damn fast when its that cold.... hope i stays cold like this..... I wanna do some racing!

any decent tap and die set should have a thread pitch gauge. this will help you figure out what size and thread the bolt is. the foot peg bolts are M10 X 1.25 the search function at the top of the forum is a really handy devise for finding this kinda info out.

come on brian I wanna run that lil motor ya got lol

the side cover and intake bolts are m6x1 thread. Helicoils would be the best bet. I have also tapped these holes out to 5/16 thread and used a standard thread bolt with out issue. You can tap the hole to 5/16 without even drilling it. Just tap it real slow and use lots of cutting fluid.

pretty sure shee chains are 520 bud

why risk trashing a new top end by half assing the rebuild... its not hard to split the cases and know for sure that the crank case is clean. Also a good time to throw new crank case seals in the motor. I have seen engines break pistons and take out the case seals... this will cause the engine to lean out and blow up again in a short order of time when ya rebuild it. Would also recommend having your crank trued and welded while ya have it out. good insurance for when ya start adding power to the motor..... seen one too many cranks come out of phase and cause the engine to blow up.

buy a nice set of flat slide carbs.... dont waste your money on boring the stock carbs.... they are a pita and over complicated with the choke crossover tube etc.

grab the sprocket and see if you can move it forward or backward, this will tell ya if the trans bearings where hurt or not. DID makes a really nice chain, along with a big ol list of other manufacturers. Just make sure to buy an o ring chain or an x ring chain if this is a trail bike thats going to see mud water and dirt. the chain will last longer. Also, sidewinder is over priced junk.... dont waste your money.

check out the threebound sealer..... thats what I use... its not as runny as yamabound and it seems to seal better. another option for ya. Also, if ya havent split a set of cases before I would recommend buying a clymers manual. very informative and easy to follow.

alky is the only way to go if your drag racing...... 7-10 percent more power.... give it a try you will shit when ya feel the power difference

if your gonna run it like that, at least get another set of the half moon washers that go on the engine mounts between the chassis and motor, run two on the front mount and two on the rear mount.... this will take out alot of engine twist, I would also suggest ya add a engine stay from the frame above the chain to the cases under the stator cover. this will keep you from throwing a chain