fun_on_the_sand

It is kind of a tic toc sound and you can hear it at idle, but, how come that can be normal??

Hey guys, I checked the orings, everything was fine. I put the coolhead back and I still have that sound. Thinking of all the things involved on detonation I have the following stuff on my bike: - LS Dyna CDI Box - Small electrode spark plug - 18 cc domes - C-12 gas (108 octane) Does anything on this combination sounds out of place? Next thing I am going to try this afternoon is to put back the stock head and see what hapens, may they didn't give me the right gas, i don't know

Any sugestion in how to put the o-rings? they sugest to put some grease on them to keep them on place, is there any problem if I put too much grease?

I got 66mm pistons. Stock are 64mm. I didnt modify the stroke, just the bore. They should't hit the head. But the domes on the stock head are 64mm and I am afraid that the piston curvature may hit the edge of the stock dome.

I did it my self. The pistons are brand new, and so are the bearings and wristpins. I am not sure what you mean by using a list. Before assembly I check all the play on the bearing, cranckshaft and wristpin, and everithing was fine.

Tomorrow I'll try to put that head back. If stil makes that sound I am going back to the stock head. Although I am afraid that since the piston is +2mm it may hit the head bad. what do you think?

I am using a cool head from pro design. It uses o-rings

I live on Phoenix Az, so I don't think humidity may be a problem. Las time I run it was monday, and I opened today and found out the rust. I think maybe the sound comes from the head (loose seal) and water is comming inside the cylinder from the head. But I don't know what to look for to make sure that is happening

Nothing at all

I have the CDI box from DYNATech and that is supposed to change the timming, but it does it from 4000 rpm's up, and this sound is during idle. What else can change the timming?

C-12 if it was detonation, would I still hear the explosion with the spark?

Hey guys. I think I have a big problem here. I just did the top end on my banshee, ported the cylinders, bored hem to 66mm, and put a pro design cool head with 18cc domes. When I start the bike there is this "toc" sound, kinda if the pistons were hiting the head. but I opened the top end and there is rust on one of the cylinders, but there is no sign that show that the pistons are hitting the head. The gasket I used on the cylinders-crakc case are cometic, and do not have the silicon strip the the YAMAHA have... Any ideas???

Hey guys, I am trying to get a hold of Eric Gorr. I was supposed to receive my cylinders last friday, but I didn't. I've been trying to call him at 1-630-289-5645 but no body answers and I need them ASAP as I'm trying to get ready for easter. Do you know another phone number I can call him?

Hey guys, I bougth a pair of Mohawk tires to match the extremes I already had. When I received them they didn't look buffed on the sides, they looked just smooth. Do you know if Skat Trak changed the tires or that was just a manufacuting error on mines? because if they don't come buffed any more I will just go and change them for a cheaper pair

How much compresion can I get by milling the head? can I get as much as I would get with 18cc or 17cc domes?

Any idea how to take the damn philips screws off to remove the cranckcase covers? They seem really tight and I dont want to screw the grooves of the head... how do you guys remove them?

Well, I called the dealership, they say they will take a look and call YAMAHA, I'm gonna take my bike tomorrow morning, and hope for the best. Where can I get one of this plugs? I tried RockyMountain, they don't carry them

Is there any gear or something close to the plug that I can damage when drilling and taping?

Is that eough to get all the metal chips out of the crank case? have you done this on your bike? ( Nice joke on the civil engineers, I started as a civil, but changed and graduated as mechanical )

If I want to install the insert my self, do I need to split the cases or can I do it without having to disassembly anything?

I was draining the oil for the first time on my new banshee and when I tried to put the bolt back on I was using a torque wrench to make sure I would't over torque it. I wasn't applying a lot of force when I noticed that the treads on the crankcase had striped out. Have any of you guys ran into this problem before? Should I take my bike for the warranty? It is 1 month old.

Hey guys, what do you think of this modification? Since the carbs breath one at a time, having the pod filters is like having one pod with no air box, don't you think... now, what if the arbox in completly open, and I mean completly, that way you have both carbs brathing thru the same filter one at a time. And I think the single K&N has more filtering area then the pod filters. What do you think?

Ok, so i close the circuit on all 4 connections (2 carbs, thumb throtle, and parking brake) what about the TORS box conection, those are 3 wires, what do I do with them?

That's a hell lot of money I called D&M and they will charge: $350 porting both cylinders $ 75 milling the head $ 90 boring both cylinders $300 if you bring the bike to their shop I am planning to do the trear down the motor my self, so I am looking to spend: D&M shop $515 Comeric gaskets from RM $23 watching my self saving $300 learning how to tear down the motor PRICELESS

Using all heavy dutty spring will give you more friction force beteween the friction and the metal plates, but if you are going to the dunes or trails for a weekend where you have shift like 100 times a day, by the end of the weekend you wont be able to pull the clutch hard enough to shift... That's why some people use, 3 stock springs and 3 HD springs, that way you don't make the cluth lever that hard to pull. On the other hand, if you are going to race all weekend, you better make sure you have all 6 HD springs, you can even use washers to preload the springs and get better friction out of your clutch