fun_on_the_sand

Yes that formula is correct :thumbsup: What domes are you getting? use the chart shown on www.nossmachine.com as a reference, your actual pressure reading may differ from that due to multiple factors (wear on rings and cylinder, temp on the engine, etc) Just to let you know, mixing race fuel with pump fuel doesn't help to prevent detonations due to high pressure on your combistion chambers. Octaneage is a property of the fuel molecules that does not mix. In other words, if you mix 90 octane with 110 octane fuel, you won't end up with 100 octane fuel. instead you will have a very expensive 90 octane fuel. The molecules of the 90 octane fuel will preignite due to the high pressure and that will cause detonations.

How much do you want to spend?

If that is the case, you are right, you need it bad... I think 2 out of 3 banshee owners have our stock air box laying around the garage and would be glad to give it away to someone who needs is... I would haply give you mine, but I gave it to my friend last week Ask around here, or to your ringing friends, I am sure somebody has one

Well my point was that a pressure tester is not as important as a good set of wrenches and screwdrivers. Of course is very nice to have all the tools we ever dreamed of on a shiny drawer rack; but, do you really need it? for my self, i don't So, are you going to use a pressure tester as much as you would use a good set of wrenches and screwdrivers? That's what I ask my self every time I want to buy a new tool. Last november I bought a craftsman torque wrench for $40 and I have never used it, I would have rather bought 5 gal of race gas hehehe

Evey fuel suplier would have different requirements for different fuels, is not directly related to the octanes One thing you need to calculate first is the Compression Ration (CR) CR = Crank pressure / 1 atm Atmospheric pressure varies with altitude, but is safe to assume it is 14.5 As an example: The crancking pressure on my cylinders is 197 psi CR = 197psi/14.5psi =13.58 => CR = 13.6:1 Now with this number you can go to a race fuel supplier and ask for a fuel that satisfies your CR Go to www.vpracingfuels.com and you can find the specifications for different fuels I use VP-110 since that is rated for CR up to 14:1 I hope this helps

I use ro run the stock airbox with K&N, outerwear and no lid and the box basically becomes a dust/sand-trap. I moved on to clamp-on's and I love it, you can feel the difference in how the engine breathes. It's definetly a sweet set up, just rebember to clean your filters often, make sure they are well oiled and clean your outerwears after every ride. Also notice that all the weight of the carb plus the filter is supported by the intake manifold. After every ride check all the clamps are very tight. Also look for cracks in the manifold. Extra precaution never hurts.

You don't need to buy a new one, just keep cranking until the needle stops moving, it should get you in the ballpark 110-130psi I would not recomend to buy a presure test unless you rebuild motors quite often, or if you were using small domes; in that case you need to know what is your compression to use the right fuel. Go and use one from AutoZone or Checkers, or split the price of a goodone with at least other 4 friends Go and spend your money on something else.

I've only seen pistons with 2 grooves and 2 rings. Maybe it's shim, just an idea

Why do you need the air box? Do you ride on wet/mudy conditions? if so, remember you will need a set of boots. If not, I would go with 2 K&N Clamp on filters with outerwears

I'll think about it and I'll talk to D&M who did the port job and see what they can do. Thank you dude, I apreciate your help

that sounds like a lot of headaches... looks like it would have been a good idea to have the porting and 4mm cranckshaft done at the same time so they can match the timming in the port to the stroker cranck. I visited the Hot Rod website and they have a kit that includes the Crankshaft, Rods and pistons, to avoid the spacer problem, but still, I would have to deal with the timming problem in the port job, which I rather stay away from. I really like the port job I have.

Nice, that's why I love this site, a lot of experienced guys willing to explain the basics and the not so basics, THank's dude Now, what if I want to add a 4mm stroker crackshaft (to go to 400cc)? What other mods I need? do I keep same rods and pistons? do I need to modify the case? Is it less reliable than the 370 long rod? what would be the difference in performace?

I got my 370 Long Rod since last year built by a local shop, but I never really understood what the "Long Rod" implies. Obviously I understand that the Rods are longer (2 or 4mm I gess) but how do you compensate for that so the piston doesn't hit the head? is that a special piston with shorter distance (2 or 4 mm) between the wrist pin to the top of the piston? What is the advantage of this? more torque overall? Thank you guys

I use some grease

They are litle pricy and some times takes them longer than usual, but regarding the porting I wouldn't hasitate in giving them my cylinders again. I think eveybody would agree with me that you need to send your cylinders for porting to somebody who really know what they are doing, and most of the cases they are not the chepest nor the fastest.

Yes the V-force 3 are the best avalible, you can check that on the "Product review" forums. I forgot to mention a +4" swing arm, you can get one for $350 that uses the stock bearing carrier. It is sold by Metal Tech, they are next door to D&M on Glendale.

I don't know how much money you want to spend but this is what I would go for: You already have pipes that work great with ported cylinders, so: - Get a CLYMERS Service manual, you would need that every day during the build - Send your cylinders to D&M in Glandale and get the dune port on them - Get a cool head with 19cc domes (race gas) or 20cc (pump gas) the smaller the domes the better the acceleration - Get a good clutch kit, Barnett or EBC - K&N Clamp on Filters so your engine can breath - V Force 3 reed valves Thats what I would consider the next step for your bike.

First things first: What's on you banshee already? pipes? carbs? airfilters? head?

I would go with 35's, from what I read in your signature you have 19cc domes which gives you very good acceleration and dune porting (bottom to mid range), so that would make up anything the 35 carbs are taking away on the bottom range. I have similar setup, 18cc domes, dune porting and advanced timming, and I just got the 39 PWK single carb set up on a trade where I was really looking for 2 PWK 35 airstrikers. I love my current setup, I do a lot of dunning and I'm never embarrased dragging on the hills. Bottom line: - Yes 35 carbs will give you better top end by making the bottom end suffer. - You have other mods (19cc domes, dune port job, advanced timming) that helps your bottom end - If you have stock carbs 26, there is not that much difference between 33 or 35, is it? go for the PWK 35 Airstrikers!!! :thumbsup:

For all you guys who live closer to Mexico than to Canada.... Yamaha also sales Banshees in Mexico 07's and now 08's

I second that... I got a couple of cheap CDI boxes, they never worked fine... and electrical problems is something you want to stay away from in the middle of the desert, if you go for one go for the Dyna, EXCELENT product For porting I would recomend you to go to the best local shop, do some shopping, talk to the guys doing the porting, take a look at the work thay have done, tell them what you want to do... porting has to do not only with the air/fuel flowing through your cylinders but also with the timing, and the timming is afected by the CDI box you want to install... so, whoever does the port job has to know what you wanto to do with your bike... just my experience, good luck

I did another test, using those disposable blue towels you get at AutoZone I cut 3 strips 2in wide and dipped each one on every container and let them dry. The strips dipped on the gas with oil and the gas in question left a very noticeable stain on the strip, exact same stain (oil stain) The strip dipped on the gas only container has no stain what so ever, clean as new. I will use it VERY CAREFULLY during this trip and let you guys know.

I did a litle test... I have a container that I am POSITIVE has oil, a container with litle left over of the same racing gas, and a container in question I used a clean black plastic surface and lay a few drops of the three containers. Results: - The gas with oil left a mark on the surface (I guess is oil residues) - The gas in question lef the exact same mark as the previous - The gas with no oil left nothing, zero, nada. Everything evaporated What do you guys think?

I use Castor Maxima 927

I thoght about that, but is $8/gal race gas and there is no place where I can go and get more... what if I wait for the tank to empy and put about a litle of that gas in the tank and see if smoke comes out of the pipes? is that too risky?