fun_on_the_sand

Don't complicate this, if the problem is that your shee is popping at WOT just go to the next size biger on the mains.

When you have it choked, it still popps from 0 to 1/4? does it still do that when is warm?

Is that a real problem?

Rather than changing the needle, try lowering the needle. Is the problem on the 0-1/4 throtle range, 1/4-3/4 throtle range or WOT?

What problems have you had? I have a boost bottle on my shee and never had any prloblem.

Still got nerf bars?

I would go up 6 - 8 sizes on the mains and 2 sizen on the pilots.

You are not running bike+mod's vs bike+mod's, you are running bike+mod's+pilot vs bike+mod's+pilot. I am not saying you are a bad pilot, but dragracing is all about reflaxes and knowing your machine as much as possible so you know its limits and its adventages. And as far as the mod's in your bike, I would never race if I don't feel my jetting is perfect, wait for those 30 pilots, they will help a lot on your bottom end and therefore you would have a better start. Good luck

If that putting back the lid is not enough try adding the snorkel (if you still have it), in case you don't have the snorkel try to find a way to restrict the air flow on the lid opening, for exemple some duct tape on the outside corners. That sounds pretty easy to adjust

I have been using c-12 since I have my shee (1 year) but I want to try the U2 since it claims to have more power capacity. Go to : http://www.vpracingfuels.com/vp_01_fuels.h...B7C81617696C9D7 they explain all different fuels they make and their application and benefits. Basically the U2 fuel was designed for 2-stroke applications. But, since it is an oxigenated fuel, you may need to rejet richer.

+2 or +4 swingarm?

It is running way too rich, if the bick has no mod's may be the air filter is too dirty, also try opening a little more the air screw.

I went from stock to SST's and increased the mains from 200 to 280. Should be the same increment.

Try changing to 30's on the pilots you will notice the diference right away. You'll have better performance on the bottom end. I did that on my shee last weekend since I was having problems on the 0-1/4 throttle range. start with the air screw @ 1.5 then start adjusting in and out for better performance. the stock pilots need to be changed as soon as you put performance pipes. Goog luck

Thank you everybody else for tyour CONSTRUCTIVE comments, I really apreciate it. Is nice to get help from people who has been arround this buissness for a while.

The only thing left is the iddle screws they may be too closed, also check the carbs' sync.

I am still a rookie on this buisness and I need some help. I have a 2004 banshee, FMF SST pipes, K&N Filter w/outweare, boysen reeds, and the last mod I made was taking the air filter lid off. I am still trying to find the proper jetting which I think I am handling pretty well. But somebody told me that removing the lid will cause way TOO MUCH air flow, and that may overheat my engine. Is this true? how can I know when the engine is overheated? How can I prevent the engine from that problem without going into the cool heads?