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fun_on_the_sand

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Everything posted by fun_on_the_sand

  1. Thank's for the timing explanation. Do you have one of this? if so, what curve do use for dunning and which for racing?
  2. Garmin eTrex with optional handle bar mount, excellent buy
  3. Do you know what the kit includes?
  4. Hi guys I have the programable LS Dyna on my shee for a while, but since I got it I have always used the "stock" curve for cruising, dunning and racing... Can anyone explain to me what type of riding is every curve for? or what kind of power band I can get on every curve? I know the different curves change the timing on different rmp ranges, how does timing affects the power? the more advanced the more power? what do you sacrifice when you advance the timing? Thank you
  5. Hey guys Has anyone had any experience, good or bad, installing and using this product? Does it really help to make shifting smoother? how does it work? how reliable it is? http://www.shiftpro.com Thank's
  6. Stock banshee $6000 K&N kit $90 Pipes $500 Tools $80 Clymers Service Manual PRICELESS Dude, you will find answers to all your "How to" questions
  7. I agree.... Too much power for the trails/woods You will never be able to develope all the power But it will kick a$$ on Oldsmobile Hill
  8. Thank you guys, seems like is something very common. The thing is that I only have about 40 hours on it and I had another banshee before and the same deal happened to it but it was not this serious... must me something wrong with my shifting habits that makes this problem worse, any idea what habits would help to agravate this problem??
  9. This is my recommendation $600 pipes $120 filters $220 Reed Valves $50 Shave head
  10. I assume that if you want to change one piston you are going to go at least one size larger because the wear is on both cylinder and piston. So if you have one piston larger than the other one that makes one piston havier than the other one therefore you are out of balance
  11. Which cover? clutch or stator?
  12. They charge around $80 last time I checked and it includes extra chain links, brake line and bearings... for me, that is a very good deal, specially if you don't have the tools to change the brake the chain and to press in the master link
  13. Dude, if you are going to spend $200+ on the head just to use 21cc domes is like buying wiseco pistons std size, you won't even notice the difference. If you want to bump up the compression jus a little bit so that you can use pump gas just machine the head, it costs like $50 instead of $200+, but if you really want to get your compression on the 180's 190's go for the 18cc domes I ran 18cc domes using 110 octane gas.... belive me bro... it is worth every penny of racing gas!! If you don't have one, get a +4" swingarm, with so much power you are adding it will be hard to keep the front end on the ground. There are good shops in town that make nice and non-expensive swingers http://metaltechproducts.com/index.html and the guys next door D&M will install it for you in case you don't want to get your hands dirty.
  14. Hey guys I raced a lot this last weekend and while racing I was getting from 6th to 1st gear all at once. After doing this for a while I wouldn't shift to lower gear any more, just the first time. So, if I was on 5th it would shift only to 4th but no any other lower gear. After a few tries I figured out the problem: When shifting down the shift lever was not springing back to the normal position. Temporary solution: Before every time I want to shift down I have to pull the lever up. Any idea what the real problem is and how I can fix it?
  15. Hey guys, I am going to have my banshee tested on the dyno today and I was wondering how much is the HP on a stock banshee? and how much should I get with the mods listed on my signature? The cranking pressure is 197psi. I'll post the dyno results when I get them
  16. If you really want to incerase your bottom end, and you want to spend some $$ go ahead and port the cylinders, stay with the stock carbs and add increase the compression by adding a cool head or a a noss head... and if you have no limit on your credit card, go for the CDI box it will boost the power from bottom to top
  17. Eric Gorr rules dude.... Excellent job, excellent price, he is located on Chicago, it will take about 3 weeks but it is woth it. Give him a call http://www.ericgorr.com
  18. Man, I strongly recommend you to buy the Clymer's Repair Manual, it's $32 and will save you $100's on shop repairs. I did the top end on mine using the manual, it guides you step by step, screw by screw... it has a lot of pictures and diagrams... it should be called The Bible of Banshee Repairs It is definetly worth every penny.
  19. I would recommend never to remove the airbox, you will expose the filters to more dirt, and they will get dirtier sooner and that will afect the airflow, therefore you will have to clean you filters more often. Besides, there is no filter that is %100 eficient, tat means that all filters let some amount of fine dirt go through, if you remove the air box, more dirt will get to your filter and more dirt will get through the filter to the engine. I would only remove the box if I was going to ride on the street.
  20. Phoenix, almost see level. You think octane booster would be a quick fix for the weekend?
  21. What is "back out" on a spark plug??
  22. I have it on the stock curve, i think is curve 4, should I try to advance te time chosing a diferente curve? No timing plate, just the CDI box
  23. Guys, I had my engine ported and I added the cool head with 18cc domes. I am having this weird, knocking sound from the engine, I checked it and the cylinders are not hitting the head. THe sound is more like diesel engine kind of sound. Is that caused by the preignition due to lack of octane on high compresion? I tested the compresion and it is 197psi. I am using C-12 for fuel
  24. Hey guys, I just put the stock head back and the same sound. SO I think detonation is not the problem. I am not very familiar with the sounds when something is wrong, but this sounds like some plastic part is hitting somewhere. And listening closer is not from the water pump side, bur from the stator side, I already open the stator cover, but anything looks wrong... What do you think guys?
  25. You can't really tell where the sound comes from. It comes from somewhere on the engine. Not the pipes, nor the transmision.
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