superdave

Ok..Ok...If no one else will do it I will...we are just getting into riding season here in colorado, so if i blow it up or get some cash this summer I will tear it apart and get it ported and see if the t-6 can be ported or not...I figure if I port it and it does not work and I need new pipes then I needed new pipes anyway and I just sped up the process..I will keep everyone posted...D

The TR6 pipe design, is for the stock engine specifically. Anytime you modify the engine where you will be altering the exhaust gas temperature, (Exhaust Port change, or compression ratio change) you will be deviating from the TR6 design capability. The reason it is the best, and works so well on a stock engine, is that it is a VERY specific design meant to maximize the potential of the stock engine, which most people actually have. It is not designed to accommodate any other port design range at all. Our T5 design DOES have this wider design capability, thus it works well on stock OR modified engines, right up into the higher RPM ranges as well. But, not AS well on the lower RPM ranges, at which a stock engine/RPM range operates, as the TR6. So, for low-end and mid range power, in the stock engine/RPM range, the TR6 is your best choice, and for modified engines, or sustained high RPM operation, the T5 is the best choice. ST Thank you from all of us at, Toomey Racing USA, Inc. 3019 Propeller Dr. Paso Robles CA 93446 (805) 239-8870 V (805) 239-2514 F www.toomey.com [email protected] A wise man once said, "In order to go fast, you must not go slow" Please read this if you are thinking about porting your motor...D

The TR6 pipe design, is for the stock engine specifically. Anytime you modify the engine where you will be altering the exhaust gas temperature, (Exhaust Port change, or compression ratio change) you will be deviating from the TR6 design capability. The reason it is the best, and works so well on a stock engine, is that it is a VERY specific design meant to maximize the potential of the stock engine, which most people actually have. It is not designed to accommodate any other port design range at all. Our T5 design DOES have this wider design capability, thus it works well on stock OR modified engines, right up into the higher RPM ranges as well. But, not AS well on the lower RPM ranges, at which a stock engine/RPM range operates, as the TR6. So, for low-end and mid range power, in the stock engine/RPM range, the TR6 is your best choice, and for modified engines, or sustained high RPM operation, the T5 is the best choice. ST Thank you from all of us at, Toomey Racing USA, Inc. 3019 Propeller Dr. Paso Robles CA 93446 (805) 239-8870 V (805) 239-2514 F www.toomey.com [email protected] A wise man once said, "In order to go fast, you must not go slow" Ok this is and email I just recieved from Toomey....So I have my answer....When I get the money for the port work then I guess my pipes will be for sale...D.

Ok.....Ok...Ok...Yes I have searched and have not got a full answer...I have T-6's and I love them. I also have the hush kit with the spark arrestor...My Banshee feels so much faster and pulls harder than my YFZ450 that was piped, air box mod, jetted, and cam mod...and it ripped. But I am still wanting more power..I have seen passion and eric gorr on hear and people seem to love the port work, but state that the T-6 will not handle the mods... I do not want to hear that my friend this or my friend that I want to hear from people who have them or have ridden the ported T-6 Banshee....I am also going to get a noss head when I get some more cash...and advance my timing.. Just give me the facts....PLEASE Oh I love my dune edition elkas and the +2+1pro-comp arms...Also thanks for the support for the non-payment issue...D

I have Toomey T-6's...it seems that people do not like them, but one of the reason I got Toomey is because their hush kit can be ordered with a spark arrestor....and it cuts the DB's to 87.....I really like it...and My banshee seems to run real well.....D

What kid of full skip plate is it...D

He said it was a money order.....and that it wnet out today...I will keep everyone posted...D

Well the method worked....He Pm'd me back and said that he is priorty mailing the check out...we will see..No check it in a couple of days then he name will be out...He said that he ran into money problems. My responce is be honest and its no big deal....I sent the part out first, because I have been on the other end of the stick when I sent money first and did not get a part...The only way this works is a little bit of trust both ways...I guess I am a little too trusting...Believe me if it was really some cash other arrangements would have been made...I will kep you informed....the only people that get tossed under the bus are those how need to be tossed. D

First let me say great web-site...second I am fairly new at BANSHEEHQ, but am a long time member of yfz central before I switched back to the BANSHEE...I sod two things off this site as I have updated my ATV. one person paid up as he said he would and the other has not and now will not return my PM's....He reports that he sent the money, so I was loke cool I will send the part, but he got the part and was very, very happy with it, I never got the money.... He says that it must have got lost...blah, blah, blah...should I give him more time? He got the part a week ago and states he mailed the check two weeks ago as of monday....I am hoping this email stirs him up and he contacts me if not I will post his name....I guess this is also a FYI that do not trust people even if they say you can or have ben around on a web site for a while...D

So what do you charge to grind the head and lighten the fltwheel..?

Hey...great job staying with it..The carbs can be swapped, but the the choke would not be reachable...choke goes on the left side with the shift lever...I also think that maybe the bowls are swapped backwards....Great job though...Its good to be on a forum where people really care if someone else gets their BANSHEE running...D

I think that starting over is a great idea....Running is good..Check and re-check the jets to make sure they are clean. Also check the reeds when you have it apart...If you start over with the way it was at first and it does the same thing then I would think that it is the pilots.., but it should still start, but run rough...D

Did you check to see if the floats are set correctly?.....tap on the bowls of the carbs and make sure they are not stuck..Did you take out the reed blocks and made sure the reeds are sitting flat...? also inspect the manifolds for cracks and proper fit...if you are geting more air then needed then starting will be hard...Keep posting.......someone will figure it out...D.

If the fuel does not shut off at the petcock then maybe the motor is getting filled with fuel....does not sound like it is hydrolocking due to way too much fuel, but could still be fuel when it is not running...I know that carbs are not supposed to let fuel in when the motor is not running, but a slightly worn needle / seat will allow fuel in and flood the motor....gravity is a great thing...get the motor started and then turn if off...disconnect the fuel to the carbs and let it sit overnight...next day put fuel to it and see if it starts....D.

Make sure that the choke tube between the two carbs is connected...D.

Sorry already sold it...D.

I also have a complete set...with the emphasis on complete.....D

I have the Pro-Taper SE bar/ (7/8) mid in black..they are the best bars I have used.....fat-bars,renthals, I like the SE bar the best so far...Just my thoughts..D.

I have a stock axle ...$55.00 shipped....It is in great shape...D.