03bansheeLE

I just found this thread aswell, very informative. I agree that using sensor readings to tune any engine is by far the best way. But I'm not going to say that reading plugs isn't going to work, its just not as accurate. So did you still end up attaching the sensor to a pipe extension off the silencer? How long was the pipe? I have an NGK wideband moniter already for tuning performance cars and have read that the sensor must be at least 10 exhaust diameters in length away from the exhaust exit to prevent a lean reading. Meaning on a 2 inch pipe the sensor should be at least 20 inches from the exit. I would think anywhere between 12.7:1 - 13:1 at WOT is quite safe and around 14.7:1 at cruising/light load is safe.

Hey how much shipped to K9V 4R4 Lindsay, Ontario Canada? Any dents, wear marks or missing chrome on the pipes? Darren

I have a complete Sniper exhust system that was on my Banshee when I got it and I have never heard of them. They seem to work well from mid-high range, can't really compare with any other pipe because I haven't used any others. I think they sound better then the FMF pipes that I have heard. Anyone heard of these and/or know if they are any good?

Im getting mine done by Jeff at F.A.S.T. right now. Can't wait to get them back and on the bike.

I had 15/41 gearing on my bone stock banshee and it pulled harder than stock gearing all the way to 6th tapped, it topped out at 82mph (75mph stock gearing). The engine was allowed to stay in the power band a little longer with the wider gearing, the stock gearing seems slightly too low. I think 16 tooth would be a little too much for a stock banshee with bolt on upgrades though.

Those are Vito's Super Stock Pistons and they are made by Wiseco to Vito's Specs. There should be a stamping under the crown of the piston that says "Vito's". These pistons preform significantly better than stock pistons. I suppose if you dont want to port your engine but just want to put new pistons in then these are the ones to use, I had them in my bike and it pulled much harder mid to top end than stock pistons and actually seemed slightly better in the bottom end too. You cannot get these pistons for stroker and/or long rod engines.

I dont mean to hijack the thread but figured this is related. I just bought some 450 a arms but havent recieved them yet and I've read that the stock ball joints will bind if the suspension is allowed to move further down than the 450 shocks will allow such as with aftermarket shocks that are longer. By looking at pictures it appears that it is the uppers that will bind because the banshee spindle is designed for ball joints that are installed on the end of an arm that is bent up like a banshee stock a arm, whereas the 450 upper a arms appear to be almost straight so the ball joint is on a different angle. The lower ball joint looks like it is on the same angle as one in a banshee a arm so it should have no problems right? I was thinking of taking the stock banshee spindles and heating the upper ball joint mounts and bending them upwards a bit to change the angle to that of a 450 spindle. Im sure if you let the spindle cool off slow enough and then bake it in an oven to normalize it you shouldnt have any problems with hardening the spindle and making it brittle. I know you can just buy yfz spindles and hubs but I thought of just trying this, I like to try and make things work instead of replacing them and im on a limited budget, any input or ideas?

If you want to ride in mud, snow and softer dirt then Mudlite SP tires hook up amazing, not quite as good as holeshots or similar tires in the hard packed stuff though. They do work amazing in mud and soft packed dirt/grass.

Everything gone?

Yea thats negative camber, definately not adjustable unless you have some aftermarket control arms. I would say the tongue that the ball joint is pressed into is probably bent where it is welded to the rest of the control arm, its a weak spot on the stock control arms. This is assuming you cant see any bends in the frame mounts for the arms or any bends in the spindle.

If it is a twist throttle designed for a banshee the cable will be too long, about an inch or so. You can get thumb throttle cables on ebay but make sure they are for carbs w/o TORS, Jeff at F.A.S.T. also has them for $30 i think.

In what way is it "tilted in"? Is it toe or camber? "Toe" is the difference in distance from side to side between the front of the two wheels and the back, "Camber" is the difference from side to side between the top of the two wheels and the bottom. This would probably be easier to see when viewing from the front of the bike, do the tires appear to be closer together at the top? Or do they look like they are turned in towards eachother or outwards from eachother? Some pics would be nice. It could be anything from a bent spindel to a bent tie rod or steering stem.

bump

Would you sell just the boots for the 35mm pwk's to stock airbox? If so how much?

Sounds to me like there is definately no packing in those silencers. Those pipes dont look to bad on a banshee though, no worse to get at plugs and fuel petcock than my sniper pipes.

My most recent set of tires are Mud Lite SP tires. They only come in one size for the front and rear, 22x7-10 and 20x11-9. I will say that they are considerably heavier than the other tires mention and that would be my only complaint. I think they look great and so far they hook up amazingly well in just about every terrain especially soft dirt and sand. They will wear down fairly rapidly if you ride them on pavement a lot. I can dump the clutch in first gear on soft dirt/grass and stand the bike right up barely spinning the tires at all.

Ive had this happen on three separate occasions. The first was because the right piston rings were melted into the piston and compression was way down (found all this out later that night). The second time was simply a fouled plug on the right side. The third was the carbs were not in sync, the idle screw lock nut had vibrated loose and the screw loosened off. Check for any obstructions in the exhaust, fuel delivery to the carbs, vacuum leaks, compression check, carb sync, etc. If you take the carbs off to clean them I would go a little further and take off the reeds and boots to peek in the cylinder to see piston/ring condition, same can be done on the exhaust side if you remove the pipes.

I would definately go for it especially if you already drove it around and are happy with the way it works. It looks like a very clean bike. Ive got nothing against four strokes but I just find them somewhat boring to drive compared to a two stroke, especially a banshee.

I had the same problem with mine. First with the stock pistons and bores, then with .060 over Vito's Super Stock pistons after only about 3 tanks of gas. I was only running 120psi on pump gas with no advanced timing and it still happened. Now im doing a full 4mm rebuild and a leakdown test after assembly. Still boggles me as to what went wrong....

I put some .060 over Vito's Super Stock pistons in my banshee and milled .030 off the stock head. I noticed quite a big difference through the whole power range. Minimal gains down low but it pulled a lot harder in the high range. Im going with standard wiseco pistons now only cause Im getting a port job and stroker crank. I would highly recommend these pistons to anyone who wants more performance without porting. Great bang for the buck!

Does the filter side of the 33mm carb still fit in the stock boot that goes from the airbox to the carb? Im going to get some 33's or 35's but I want to keep my airbox.

90% of my riding is through trails, hilclimbs, and gravel pits. I looked at the cheetah cubs that come with pistons and ported to 4mm stroker but Ive read that they arent very good in the lower ranges like on trails and such. Right now im running 65.5mm bore (.060 over) on stock sleeves unported. I just figured I need new sleeves anyways if I keep these jugs so why not go bigger right? When I get a porting job I was thinking about getting it for the mid - high range because Im mostly keeping the rpm right in the banshee's powerband but I dont want to lose the little bottom end I have right now.

Also I need a good shop to press my sleeves in, port for my 4mm stroker, cut some domes, and bore/hone the cylinders. Who would you guys recommend? Preferably in the northern states because I live in Ontario and Im afraid the shipping for my jugs will kill me.

Well my banshee melted the sides and rings of the right hand piston and the bores are already .060 over. I was using Vito's Super Stock Pistons and Ive only got about 4 tanks through this thing since I rebuilt the top end. Needless to say the right hand cylinder has some substantial grooves between the exhaust port and one of the left transfer ports so Im going to need some new sleeves. I was wondering if anyone has used the big bore sleeves for the stock jugs and if there are any modifications required to use these? Also I will be using a Wiseco 4mm stroker/ 5mm long rod crank and they dont make 795 pistons this big so what kind of pistons would I have to use for the long rod? Blaster pistons? I have some pics of my pistons and jugs but I cant figure out how to insert pics in the post. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Im pretty sure .080 is the most for reliability and longevity.