dajogejr

IF it is in fact an override, no. Regular cut or dunable, slow trail cruising is not a good idea. NO way to answer that 100%..but, if I was just playing in trails, I would't have an override. UNLESS..they were wide open, roomy trails like fireroads, etc. But thick, whooped, wooded/muddy trails, no.

20cc domes cut for alky. Yes, there is a difference in gas and alky domes. Both fuel have different combustion characteristics. Will it work with a gas dome? Sure....but you bought a cub, you plan on running alky, get domes cut for alky. Get 39PWK carbs. Cheap and easy and they work.

Be prepared to be disappointed...Ricky Stator electrics are JUNK. Coils don't need to be heated up...if they're gonna fail, they often do so once warm. Check your compression. I'd bet it's low, and it's blowing oil/fuel past the rings until it heats up. To the original poster, check your stator, your grounds and spark plug wire end caps.

I wouldn't run pump gas on a motor with 170PSI. Even though you should base octane requirements by compression ratio, NOT cranking compression..I think very few would tell you pump gas and 170PSI is a good idea. Back loading is reving the bike out in gear, letting off the gas and leaving the clutch engaged. In other words, the motor is slowing down the bike.... Bad idea for a standard cut override...it will bend shift forks if you keep doing it. The only sure fire way to find out what kind of tranny it is would be split the cases and look.

My apologies to your mechanic. I didn't realize he was only talking about the pipe choice, I thought you meant motor in general...my bad.

Have you seen Firehead? He needs a pickup line just to get his order at Burger King... :biggrin:

I'm so glad I control and monitor the filters at my work... I'm gonna have to check that out later at home (no filter or monitoring is gonna help me if someone looks over my shoulder...lol) There's one on there about witnessing a murder, then it ends with the Fresh Prince of bell aire opening song....funny shit for sure....

Two things, without trying to sound like too big of an ass. 1. Find a new mechanic, one that knows how to not only assemble one, but to leak down check it, check for squish, compression test it, etc. 2. Do not listen to whomever said that. That is the WORST possible thing you can do to the motor short of throwing the bike off a dock into a lake. It is absolutely important the motor is properly warmed up before going out and making a full throttle pass. Short of the lines I've heard firehead use to pickup pirate hookers, that is possibly the worst advice I've ever read on any forum. Briefly, a engine needs to warm up to expand and move. Doing what this guy said will more than likely leave you with a "cold" seize...where the piston doesn't reach operating temps and seizes in the bore as a result. I would make sure your mechanic assembles the bottom end and bench tests the shifting as well...make sure it goes through the gears. He'll more than likely have to spin the countershaft sprocket over while assembled to get it to shift. Overrides are like that. Or...spin it in the bottom half of the cases to make sure it'll spin/shift.

Based on your other post, once it's assembled...I'd look for another builder. A lot of people can put these together, but putting them together and getting it to run right is another story. It could be more than 2HP, could be less. But it will change how/where the pipe hits and how broad/long the power curve is as well. I say go with small bores.

If it shifts that good under full throttle with no clutch, I'd bet it has an override as well. Does it have a lockup clutch? Also, I'd be very careful of backloading (Letting off the gas and NOT pulling the clutch) if it does in fact have an override. 70mm pistons are big bore pistons, those cylinders had to be sleeved. Anything over 66.5mm (.100 over) will need a sleeve. Sound like you got a steal...good for you! Karma can be a good thing!

My lectrons, the two times the needle and seat had gunk in them, poured out the overflow tubes on the side, luckily not in the motor. Shayne, I remember that filled up cylinder @ Bobs...sheesh. Even after purging my bike more than it's needed, normally the day before I ride, I will take my carbs apart and brake clean the bejesus out of them. I can't stand starting a bike up on methanol only to have the carbs overflow. Shayne, keep in mind...a lot of guys break off the overflow tube on stock bowls and feed the PJ with this line instead of drilling/barb tapping the bowl elsewhere. So it can be a problem with stock bowls, too... Sorry to hear it Joe...lesson learned. Since that is a stock crank, go see Evan. I'm sure he has a gazillion old cranks laying around he could help you out with....

Actually, what he's talking about is called stuffing the cases. You add material to the bottom half, epoxy, etc., and what this does is decrease crankcase volume AND more effectively gets the fuel/air charge into the cylinder via the transferrs. Some have great luck with it, some gamble and lose... It works when done right.

If you're going to leave the cubs stock, as in no porting...and run short tracks, some will tell you big bores. For hill shooting or longer distance, small bores. It is a coin flip. If you're going to have someone port and/or set that motor up, ask them what they prefer. I used small bore inframes on my 4 mil cub, I use big bore OOF on my 10 mil cub. I've been told to try small bores for the 300 foot riding that I do...

In 300 foot dirt, crank the timing up to 7 to 9 degrees. I'm sure you're already running race fuel. I agree...lighten the pig up. CPI or Shearer would be a good pipe....but ask whomever ported your cylinder what they recommend. Do you have a lockup and override transmission? That is a must for any drag racer....

As far as domes, setup, timing, compression, etc., that is gonna depend on a lot of things. 300 foot bike, dune bike, pavement bike, etc. Also depends on the who set it up. More squish clearance = more timing, less fuel, etc. Way too many variables. As for purging, just get 87 octane pump gas and mix it a little richer than your methanol. 20:1 to 28:1 is fine. MAKE SURE you use the same premix oil that you use in methanol. Please, do NOT put the back end off the ground, it can and should be purged in Nuetral. When the motor starts bogging down, the tone of the motor changes a little...and you have to give it about 1/2 throttle, that's when you know it's getting into the purge gas. I usually wrap the throttle/hold it 1/2 open for another 30 to 60 seconds after that and let the bike kill itself. Warmed up, a bike with carbs setup for alky will die at idle with gas going through the fuel system. It's literally flooding the motor out with gas/oil once it's warmed up. Methanol bikes in warm weather usually start no problem. Cold weather, good luck. Instead of starting it with ether if it's tough to start, hold the throttle wide open and trickle a little purge gas/oil in the front part of the air filter to try and get it to start. Ether has NO oil in it...so you're almost starting the motor dry....I try to avoid ether unless I have to.

10mm, 115 rod crankworks forged crank. Inner and outer webs are welded. An NTN **Style** TZ Bearing on the PTO side, OEM bearing on the ignition side. TZ bearings are no longer made from Yamaha, so...what people do is use the NTN bearing equivalent and have the outer race machine with a groove to accent the case retaining clip (looks like a 1/2 moon) This is my personal belief...and opinion, but I don't think billet cranks are worth the money. However, now that they're coming down in price, coupled with the forged cranks that are getting phased out, I don't think we're gonna have a choice in the future...

I hate watching hockey on Versus. You'd think the crybaby Betman's poster boy Crosby walked on water. Here's one for you... LET'S GO RED WINGS

Compared to Rich's bike skills and this guy (ATVDragger, aka Ron)'s PR and promoting skills, they have 2 of the 3 rings in the circus covered.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=115115&hl=

I don't know what you're talking about...from the outside, it's one of the cleanest I've seen. I love old Scouts. They are just bad ass as all hell and make great 4X4s!

Talk to Dave Noss, or dlnoss on the board here. He can answer questions like that for you, and cut domes if need be.

If you went from 310 to 360 main and it didn't change anything, start looking at the ignition components. Also, did you ever leak down test the motor? I'm sure it ran fine before...but, test it anywho...

If it's gutted and you roll it over...it will/could spill gas out the over flow/vent tube. That's really all the check ball does. Otherwise, as said...the type of fuel valve, size of fuel line dictates how fast your fuel gets to the carbs. How much they hold is up to the float level.

Let me give you another example. I sent my whole motor to Kevin minus trans and clutch. He degreed my motor in...which you need the cases, crank, pistons and cylinders.

I'm thinking that includes porting, pistons, shipping both ways, dissasemble and re-assemble....etc. Possibly other stuff like a bore job, crank true/weld....etc.

http://www.tysonracing.com/turbo.html