dajogejr

Please do me one favor. Read the original poster's signature (you know...the guy asking the questions) and then tell me how it's not relevant to 300' of sand or dirt. Next, answer me what forum this question was asked in. Drag Racing. Thanks.

Interesting...you're relating a couple thousand HP 1/4 mile bike's setups to a banshee's clutch setup. mmm...ok. And...unless my eyes are going...My post said this guy rides 300 foot dirt. It's what is in his signature. So...no, it wasn't a type, I believe since I quoted his signature, it's correct. Silence the naysayers at a event like Planet Sand with your asphalt setups...(also a 300 foot race, by the way, not a hill like Glamis) and I'll believe you. Again. Apples to apples.

Hey Turbo... This guy runs 300 foot dirt and on a banshee. Show me an NHRA or IHRA bike that is banshee twin based, running on 300ft with 4 wheels and I'll listen to anything you have to say. Apples to apples. Back to the riders real problem. I don't think you need more clutch slip... I think you need a longer arm and possibly some length out front. If you're overpowering your bar....try slipping the clutch out a bit more. I use 3 barnett HD springs and 3 off brand hd springs. They're inbetween stock and barnett HD. Clutch pull isn't too bad at the lever....

I would split the cases and flush the bearings out of the cases. I'd spin 'em once out and see how they felt. You've got all that fluid gone through the motor and you're still getting shavings. When I popped a piston in my motor two years ago, it was only a little of the crown, above the ring land. That's a big hole smack in the middle....

I'd be splitting those cases with that bad of carnage.

PARTY!!!!! :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer: :beer:

Radar gun or GPS are the only methods I'd trust. Who's to say your buddy's car speedo is accurate, or you were pacing each other correctly. Here's an idea. Ask a cop to radar you, you could both get a ticket, ask for him to write the MPH down...on both of yours, and scan it here.

The point of posting a price is a starting point, as said. Or else this turns into I'll give you 25, I'll give you 26, etc. Lowballing or alternate offers are handled via PMs. I asked for prices to help sell his items, and got a smart ass answer back after posting a link to the forum rules. So...fair game. My offer is about to go down to 14.99....free shipping.

If you have operators standing by, I will offer you 19.99 for all of it. I will pay separate shipping and handling for each item. If Billy Mays says it's a good deal, I believe him. Are there any "WAIT...if you order in the next 15 minutes" special offers?

I have had my own heated arguments with Turbo before. I clearly wasn't trying to start one here. My main point is don't knock something if you don't have a readily better answer, that's all...

I think his kit is 95 plus shipping. it is fibers, steels and springs.

When I went to Bobs, and just started racing, my 4 mil cub with suspension (marvins) 6 over arm and 10 paddle haulers, stock tranny, Jeff's clutch.....would go neck and with a ported 350 with a lockup and override. My friend Don H. and I had some great races...we'd always be within a tenth of each other at the end. That little bike still moves for what it is....but that override would've saved me 2 tenths easily....

9500 average stock maximum RPMs. The usable RPM range stock is probably 5000 to 9000 or so.

If you can follow a clymers manual, you can put in a transmission. I will buy nothing but the clutch kit from Jeff @ FAST. I've tried others, his works, and has done me well. I'm to a point that some things I will try to improve on, some things just work and why ruin a good thing. I'm a believer in Jeff's clutch, period. It's all I'll run. I'll PM you details on the override.

On my bike, Shearers pulled even harder and longer on top. The correct setup? When you beat anyone in your class you're racing with....LOL. If you want to race in 300 foot straight line, you want it light, lowered and longer. You need a lockup and override. You need a 10 to 12 over swinger. You need struts or Marvin shaw shocks to lower it to the ground. You need a wheelie bar, not to go faster, but to be more consistent. You need time, patience, tires, gearing, spark plugs and lots of fuel to test, tune, test, tune....

While I applaud you for your efforts to build something more advanced...however, just a set of carbs and a turbo get the job done and have been working. So you can't knock others work when your own original and cutting edge idea has yet to work. I can appreciate you wanting to do this A-Z on your own, but until you build a working AND better product than others have been using, it's like telling an auto manufacturer you can build a better car....but you're still stuck in a soap box derby model, albeit a cool, shiny soap box derby car... I would talk to Kevin Gigot @ Gigot Performance about some fuel injection. He's got it down...there's nothing wrong with taking someone's idea and making it better or improving it. No one would ever fault you for that.

17-39 is not ridiculous gearing for 1/8 and 1/4 mile. Guys here on pavement run 18/36 to 39. By the gearing calculator, he could hit 108 in 6th. Again, IF the motor turns to 10,500 in 6th gear, if there's not too much compression, if there's not too much wind resistance....and everything is in good tune. 95ish is realistically what I'd say.

Probably right at 100, IF your bike will pull 6th gear all the way to 10,500 RPM and if I remember, the stock rear rubber is 20 inch. Keep in mind...after 50 MPH wind drag becomes a factor. On a bone stock banshee we removed the front and rear fenders and gained 3-4 MPH....no bs. That's all we did. Depending on the size/shape of the head since it's been shaved, that can lower top speed as well. +4 shouldn't hurt top speed much at all.

What is your elevation? At or near sea level, I'd stick with .015 to .020 max.

Please post asking prices. Taking offers is for ebay. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=92579

I think since you've never raced...hours of T&T would be the absolute best place to start. However... You go make 4 passes, they are very consistent, I wouldn't hesitate to race. Sometimes it's just natural for some people. If you cut a good light and run consistent times....go for it!!!!

Looks like 10 bucks a day gate fee. Doesn't say anything about camping, but I believe it's free. 60.00 to enter ATV, 75.00 for pro atv. I think it's 30.00 for all day test and tune, or 20.00 for 4-10PM test & Tune... Here is the updated flyer

Issac... You'll get two time trials (one in each lane) before you race on Saturday. Friday they are running test and tune from 12 noon till 10 PM. If you've never raced before, I have to be honest, it'd probably do you good to make a few passes on your bike to know what it turns. Don't get me wrong...do what you want, but I'd rather have at least 3-4 passes under my belt before I paid money to race (I think it's 65 to 100 bucks per class, depending on which class(es) you want to run.

You're far too normal to fit in with this group of misfits, that's for sure... :biggrin:

SOD crew is planning on noon or so on Friday!!