dajogejr

Ok...here's my take. You already have a MUCH BETTER MX quad, both suspension wise and motor wise...the 450. You can make a banshee so several things ok. Just Ok. Or you can make it do one or two things really, really good. Like duning and drag racing. IMO, leave the track to the YFZ....make that banshee a dune/drag quad. You don't need to put quite as much money in suspension for a duner/drag quad as you would an MX friendly setup. If you want a great duner, here would be my list. Carbs, 33-35PWKs. Pipes, T5, Trinity Stage IV or CPI inframe pipes Porting, Porting, Porting 4 over swingarm (obviously, this would be a no deal for an MX bike) Better clutch Since you're an MXer...get the best shocks you can afford. When you say duning, do you just run around bowls, etc? Or are you captain crazy, jumping 50 to 100 feet, etc? That should dictate if you needs a run of the mill set of aftermarket shocks, or if you need the cat's ass....

The right spring looks stock. The middle spring looks like a HD barnett. I don't now what kind the left spring is. Of those three, I'd be using the gold spring. They are the longest, the spring material looks to be the thickest and it looks to have more "windings" on it than the spring on the left. When you put your pressure plate on, are you fighting the spring? in other words...do you have to really push on the screw to put the spring/retainer bolt on? If so...that's not your problem. How you have your shifter adjusted, somewhere, is your problem.

Yep...but here's the good part. For a set of 50 to 60 dollar needles, those same carbs will work on gas, nothing else needed. Call up Dennis Packard, tell him what you have...he can get you the right needles and even advise you on how to set them up.

Dirt track...picked tires allowed? How long before it's a sand track? This is the closest track for the East Siders other than Port Huron...hmm...but we all run 300 foot, not 500.

First off, let's make things easy on you. Are you going to ride trails/dunes or STRICTLY drag race? Before we go further, let's see if alky is worth it for you.

Naw...won't hurt it.

I understand the slides are sync'd, but are you SURE they are in the right carbs? They can be put in either carb, but only one carb is right. The half moon cutout at the bottom HAS to face the airbox/air filter...

Exactly...every motor and tune is different. That's why I say check compression ratio. It's math, you have some measuring to do, but it's not that bad. I consider it a learning experience as well.

On a small engine, like 125 cc or weed eater, etc., I'd use a single ringer. On a banshee...I wouldn't. Better sealing and longer life... I can't see much of a performance increase by not sealing as well with a single ring. The weight of a ring is nothing compared to it's sealing power...AND...it's negligible due to the material being removed from the piston.

Crossover tube in place? (As said) Bowls on the right carb? There is a left and right carb. Slides in the right carb (You can mix/mess them up. If they are correct, the half moon shaped cutout in the bottom of the slide will point towards the air filter/air box) IF all those are correct, remove the carbs and clean them out. Remove the pilots, mains, use speaker wire, carb cleaner or brake cleaner and compressed air to get ALL OF the passages clean. Put fresh gas/oil in the tank and fresh spark plugs.

Get a quality tester. 20 dollar auto store testers are junk, period. Craftsman makes a nice small engine/motorcycle kit for around 60 I believe. You need to make sure the tester threads are the same size and depth as your spark plugs....you need to displace as much volume in your cylinder as your spark plug does for an accurate reading. Pull both plugs out, turn the ignition and fuel off...and test each cylinder. Hold the throttle wide open while kicking, and keep kicking until the gauge no longer moves. Honestly, it can take 20 to 30 kicks per cylinder to get the reading. This is a decent kit: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947089000P?keyword=compression+tester

Cubs love timing and compression. Put 21 cc domes in it. Put the timing at 7 to begin with. Should be a very noticeable difference. You will probably have to richen up the jetting a size. More compression and timing cause more heat....need more fuel to cool that.

I would demand your money back AND let them pay for a set of used cylinders. That's absolute crap work. And you don't want epoxy between the sleeve and the cylinder, period. They bore the cylinder out, heat it up and then install the sleeve. When the outer cools back down it clamps onto the sleeve, there should be no gaps. They actually press the new sleeve in even though the cylinder is heated up....that is a crap job there.

OK...first things first. Get the igniton fixed. Without proper spark, you'll chase your tail all day long. Once you've verified that's working correctly, work on the jetting. It's possible you're just jetted improperly. If the air screw is set properly and 1/2 turn out is right, you need larger pilot jets. It's also possible the top end is just worn out...

Someone forgot to ask you the most important question. What elevation do you ride at? If you're at a higher elevation, sometimes even a 19 or 20 is fine. Second, Cranking compression does NOT dictate the need for more octane, compression RATIO does. NO fuel is rated for cranking compression. It is rated for compression ratio.

I'll never get Shearer chrome again...it might look good at first, but will flake off sooner or later. And this is on a methanol bike (not nearly as much heat as on gas) IF I ever buy another set of Shearer pipes, it'll be raw and I'll get them chromed myself.

Shearer big bore inframe pipes are rare...and expensive. I don't know if they're even made anymore... Obviously, small bore would be better for your application. It depends on how aggressive your porting is before we can tell you if the BB will work or hurt power much.

I am the Banshee HQ Mean Mutha Fucka.... LOL Bennie...how you doin? I ran T5 and stock carbs on my 4 mil cub a few years back. 84.8 HP on the dyno...it ripped. I only took it for one ride though, 'cause I had RDZ/Shearer inframes and 35PWKs in the mail on the way.... You can make plenty of power with T5 pipes...well into the 70's IMO on stock cylinders ported correctly, and possibly higher....depending on the setup.

The first thing I'd do is contact Jim @ Passion. His motors like fuel differently...and he could guide you in the right direction. Otherwise, you'll get 10 different answers from folks on here. Personally....I've had good luck with CEL and DEK needles in the 33 to 39PWK carbs on gas motors. Again...I've never had a Passion port job...so talk to him first.

Yep...dune port with either of those pipes will be killed by a 2:1 carb setup. When we had to buy new carbs earlier this year for a buddy's build, Jeff @ FAST had the best prices....and I've always trusted and dealt with him. The fact he had the best prices was just icing on the cake!

CPIs all the way. They are a more forgiving pipe. If he was looking for max HP which he clearly said he isn't....I'd say Shearer. I've run T5s (yes, and stock carbs on my 4 mil cub while waiting for....) RDZ inframes (copy of shearers) on my 4 mil cub. On my 10 mil, I've run Shearer hand coned, CPI and stamped Shearer.... The CPI is a work horse pipe. Little tough getting to the plugs and fuel shut off on CPIs inframe pipe, but nothing like those junk Rockets. Since it's a play bike, CPI. You are probably missing out on 2-4 HP peak vs. using Shearers, but smoother and quicker power output of the CPIs would serve you better... If you want to get more power out of that cub, crank on the timing, keep the cranking compression around 175 to 185 and run full race fuel (110 octane). On my 4 mil cub, I kept it on race fuel, 11 or 12 degrees of timing, 185PSI and it ripped along very good. Don't get me wrong, it's still a cub. It'll never be a stocker or Cheetah cylinder....but it was pretty stout mid to the top.

The stock timing plate can be modded to get 4-5 degrees of advance or retard. People advance the timing because more often than not...banshees have more than enough top end to sacrifice at the expense of better bottom and mid acquired by advancing the timing. Run it at plus 4. If the bike doesn't run to your liking, you already know how it runs the other way. I can't believe at -5 on timing it has enough to get out of it's own way till the upper RPMs....though. Are you sure it's retarded? It'll be spun clockwise from stock to advance...as said. Just remember: http://www.entertonement.com/clips/mbsflrzmrc--Everybody-Knows-You-Never-Go-Full-RetardRobert-Downey-Jr-Tropic-Thunder-Kirk-Lazarus-Oscars-2009-?fl_link=

gotcha... Hey...I'm not trying to bust balls, you just know you don't have an ideal setup! I ran stock carbs and T5 pipes on my 4 mil cub setup while I was waiting on my inframe shearer pipes and bigger PWKs. I had a bunch of people telling me they won't work....which was BS. I was just missing out on performance.... I think the jetting I gave you should get you ball park close, good luck...

Different everywhere you go. My buddy has a Turbo YFZ on Methanol that will beat most of the smaller banshee motors, say....4 mil cub and smaller. I am not discrediting the big raptors making big power...but you can only get to a certain point, for now... And there isnt' a raptor based motor bike on the planet that will put down the numbers like a 800 cc twin based banshee motor... stroking, are you in Florida/Miami area? I know I've heard all about the street racing down there before. Sit down, stand up, etc. I've also heard no one tells what they actually have in their bikes...so a so called 4 mil could be a 14 mil, etc... In that case, and no offense to you...I don't offer much credibility to what people do or say down there. Its more lying and BS than racing.

Actually....I agree with him on that.