dajogejr

Hell yes...it's a money maker.

Somewhere in Wisconsin, there is a parts shop/dealer just licking their chops and counting their dollars because of douchebags like you. Didn't you state in another thread "I offer up good advice when I do offer advice"... Yeah, do us a favor...STFU. Do you know what hydrolock is? When it happens to you....you will. But I doubt you'll post back here for your fucktard mistake. Start by pulling both side covers off...then pull the head off. You'll probably have a good idea or starting point from there.

I've yet to see a bonafide improvement at the track with windowed pistons. 1-3 HP on a dyno is nothing....especially compared to the life you just shaved off the motor. I don't know who ported your motor...but the top guys out there in the drag race world are the top for a reason. Maybe hit one of them up....

As said on ATVDragracers, pickup a couple books by A Bell and Gordon Jennings on two stroke performance. They'll blow your mind.... Porting is half in the numbers, the other half is what puts food on the table for the builders. And I wouldn't divulge those numbers either.....

Very rare, but entirely possible. Put some chalk, marker, something in the case top and bottom where the crank rolls through. It should rub off on the crank pin/web and you can see where you might have to machine a bit. Take a pic of the sides of the cranks. I just saw a newer 4 mil hot rods crank the other day, I was actually VERY impressed with the welds.

I am pretty much speechless. Ask him if he rebuilds dictionaries...or if he knows how to make them reliable. The site is banshee dude but the second picture in the dyno room is a 4 choke. Smart business man this guy is....

I'm counting days guys...can't wait. Hopper and I are gonna take Mr. ET and Rich Wood to the cleaners in a grudge race. I know T&T doesn't start till 3PM...but I'm planning on being there at noon. I haven't rode my bike in so long, it's going to take a couple passes to remember how!!

As the title says. I got this arm for a chassis I was going to have built...I just don't see that happening now. Never been used or mounted. Comes just as you see. It is 14 over, linkless, and has the wheelie bar mount welded on as well as the tabs under the carrier. 350 shipped via FedEx w/ tracking. If you use paypal, I will split the fees with you, add 1.5%. Make me an offer, possible trade for parts. Don't know I'd take in trade...but entertain me. Its just sitting in my garage....

Another no key vote. But if you're stuck on one, motor city ATV I'm sure has one. He's on ebay and here, his name is Ray and goes by minkia38. I'd put a remote on/off kill switch hidden on the bike somewhere. I promise that'll deter a thief more than a key switch.

Can't keep a determined rider down. Good for you. A lot of drag race guys use a remote type starter for the bike for the big motors that would damn near break your leg off to kick over. I'm sure this technology could be adapted to a smaller, stock motor. But...as I'm sure you've thought about, you need something on board. If you stall, wreck...or flat out just want to take a break...obviously this isn't practical. There has to be something...I'll keep me eyes peeled for ya.

I personally think the show is a POS. MTV is totally worthless...it's drama reality, where's the music in that. However... Shogs, as long as you're not sitting there bullshitting, I respect your father for being self made...and you don't sound like a snot nosed kit (which...as you'll have to agree are shown all the time on that show...) Props to you for not only appreciating what your father has done, but knowing it hasn't been easy. Hopefully your father's work ethic is represented in you. Sounds like you're off to a good start. Good luck...

I honestly have no idea what nickel carbide does for the cylinders. These cylinders are made for Vitos'...I doubt you'll find them cheaper unless they have an ebay or clearance sale, or someone cuts out the dealer (someone has a hookup with the manufacturer before they make it to Vitos) I seriously wouldn't waste any more time or money thinking about a product they only show you a box picture of...

Here's the problem with sleeving a set of stockers. It sucks... Plus, when you sleeve you lose tranfer area. These cylinders have the bigger bore with more transfer area and triple port exhaust. Vitos sells them...they do offer a 4 mil crank. The cylinders I posted a link to are for a 4 mil long rod crank. 58 stroke by 68 bore is 421cc.

I think they'll be a great duner cylinder...but I'm into the drag race thing. From those that have played with these cylinders, their first comments are they need some grinding for peak HP. A duner doesn't need to extract that last few HP like a drag race guys does.

Only if the bearings are bad. I'd recommend new seals... If you're going to go that far, save the money on the cool head and get your crank trued/welded, unless you pull it apart and find it's got bad bearings. You can get a good true/weld job done on a stocker for 50 to 100 bucks.

If Money is that tight, which...for most of us it is, go spend 30 to 50 bucks and have someone mill .015 to .020 off your stock head. The stock crank is an absolute ROCK, when it's properly trued and welded. I've seen them separate in stock motors. When you tear it down for a rebuild, or...before you go crazy on some mods...good idea for a true and weld. Till then, you're just playing a poker hand. Could last forever, could separate 1st or second time out.

Compression ratio, not cranking PSI determine octane needs. Chariot and Noss are site sponsors, stick with them. Each head has it's pros and cons. Not having to buy longer studs to use either of their products is a nice thing. If you're going to advance the timing, don't go less than 21cc if you definately, positively only want to run pump gas. I know people will state (they already have) someone they know runs 18cc domes on pump gas. That's great...if the someone they know will pay for a damaged motor if you attempt to do the same, then listen to them. 21cc should be safe, give you a nice performance bump with the timing increase....

They are good out of the box. If you want the max power out of them....you need to get them ported. They are better than stockers, much better. They are no cub...or Twister.

It's going to depend on a lot of things. .116 is what a some methanol guys run, keeping in mind...if the dump tube isn't that big, it doesn't matter how big the main is. And there is no reason to drill the pilots, you can buy big enough pilots for E85 and Methanol. I'd say go up two to 3 sizes from a gas to E85/Methanol bike pilot.

Before I shelled out that money for a box, I'd pay for a reputable builder's port job. If you wanted a bolt on kit, I'd go with these. Are they a cub? No...but you don't want a full on drag motor. http://vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/product.php?productid=11399&cat=202&page=1

I've seen vids of 130MPH plus pavement bikes as well. I've done well over 90MPH on mine and ran out of gear on ice at just over 400 feet (they run 660' or 1/8 mile)

Leakdown and compression testing are two different things (blacksunhine, when I read your post...I was confused about how you meant that..sorry... ) You need to get a quality compression gauge and test it out. Keep in mind, your gauge thread depth must be as long as the spark plug itself for an accurate reading. Also...stop riding that bike until you can test it. If the engine gets worn too much (which, it sounds like it's at that point) you risk seizure and breakage of parts. Much more expensive than a simple freshen up. If it gets fuel, spark, is jetted properly and the air filter is clean...it sounds like it's time to freshen it up.

JD...this is what you'd have to compete with. I had one of these (my buddy bought one, gave it to me when he sold his banshee) I never used it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-engine-stand-motor-RZ-350-drag-RZ350-new_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem2a014a4bb3QQitemZ180410272691QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

I only kinda parsed this thread, so if it's been covered, forgive me. First...unplug the tors. The wire at the clutch perch, the throttle, the carb tops and the black box under the gas tank. Disconnect all that shit. Second, just because a stator won't light a bulb does not mean it won't spark to the plug. The ignition and lighting side of the stator are separate. To me it sounds like a bad stator or a faulty ground or kill switch.

Generally speaking, bigger than 10 you'll need to epoxy or weld extra material on the top and bottom. If you have a big pin 10 mil, you'll need to as well. You could also have a mismatched set of cases. The top could've been from a bigger stroke motor.