dajogejr

No prob... You mentioned you treated it like a drag tranny...it "should" be fine on the inside. You just never know. But I was going through PMs just yesterday and came across Cody's PM...and I thought about you guys out there. Good luck, please keep us updated on what you find!

Yep. My budy Cody (Rajun Cajun) got one cut from me...said it did the same things/similar to what you're talking about. He PM'd me the other day with this: (I know he won't mind me sending this to you..) Just wanting to shoot you a message. I got rid of my shift pro shift kit and install the stock parts. Now the bike doesnt shift on it's on and it wont pop from 5th to 4th by itself in a race. It did that a lot.

On a ratio chart it is. In my experience...it slows down the crank a little with a bigger front sprocket allowing the wheels to get traction instead of boiling them off...

Rudy Kurtz is the man with transmissions...no doubt about it. I don't think he believes in the dunables, but I could be wrong. Hey Jeff...you don't happen to have a shift pro kit in it in addition to the override, do you?

It's hard to tune a bike out of the hole/launch without 60 ft times. That's where your race is won and lost. What gearing are you running? For 300 foot you should only be using 2-5 th gear. You want 5th gear wound out just as you go through the traps. If you're in 6th gear...it takes a lot more motor to pull paddles...6th is like override. I'd go 15/44 on gearing to start. Launch in second...slip the clutch don't dump it...and wind out 5th through the traps. Sooner or later, override and lockup are in your future if you want to be competitive at the track.

My buddy said it's more than likely from being backloaded and the forks are worn out. Take pictures when you decide to tear it apart...

Damn... That helmet is sick... Looks good Ray!

Couldn't agree with you guys more. I like to stick to 165 to 185 Cranking compression and add timing, it's easier on the bottom end and...it's easier to adjust timing than it is compression. As said, that much compression is killing overrev and top end. Shoot for 180ish. With your setup, probably a 20cc domes is what I would shoot for. Are you flat dragging, hill shooting, duning, etc?

Gotcha....I wasn't sure if the one you had or the one Bennie had was from us:) Regardless, I sent my bud an email to get his thoughts and I"ll let you know!

Get your traction figured out first. If you were blowing the tires off...go up one tooth on the front. You're leaving in 2nd gear...right? Mess with gearing and air pressure. What kind of 60ft times were you getting? What is your weight?

I will ask the guy who cut it. How did the shift forks look when you put it in...and are you sure you put the right spring in the right location on the fork shaft? Is the shifter accentric adjusted properly?

I go to Oriley's or AutoZone and get Permatex Motorcycle gasket maker. It's called Moto-seal. You need a semi-drying gasket maker. I put a thin coat on both sides of the case halfs, let it setup for 10-15 minutes then put 'em together. http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/269/12556/ITEM/Permatex-MotoSeal.aspx

Bad plating but more than likely was it leaking any coolant? Antifreeze leaking in the cylinder is known to flake nikasil.

If you were RC or Bubba...you'd run whatever the factory got for free to run in their bikes to... They could have a duct taped piece of nylon pantyhose if they got paid from the manufacturer to run their stuff.... Don't mistake product superiority with commercial gain. Even though there is a "production rule" for AMA racing....no one follows it, and no one calls the other out in fear of being called out themselves. The bikes RC and Bubba ride/rode will never, EVER be available to the common man. You could probably buy about 25% of what is on that bike, grips, tires, etc. Anything else is made of "unobtanium" metals with a high $$$ price tag! That being said... Get rid of that inch or inch and a half thick spacer. That's part of the problem. A carb cocked sideways like that isn't going to run the same as the other one straight up and down. I've used foam and gauze/pleated type filters in my bikes for years. I prefer the K&N style for ease of cleaning and oiling... Anytime you don't maintain something properly it could cause failure...air filters are no exception.

X100! I agree...

I agree 100%. Back in the day.... But economics and the almighty dollar took over from quality and craftsmanship. Two go bad (normal stators) in two years. First one was warrantied and they were very quick to get me one back. The second one I threw in the trash at the track...and that was that. I carry a stock stator for backup in addition to the stock stator I use.

Word... The only issues we've had with our dunables is those who have backloaded the ever living shit out of them. I'm with sheefreak...3 seasons of abuse on my drag bike with the 1-5 dunable. Just split my cases yesterday, still looks GREAT!!! Sorry guys...and I know WCR is working on these...but until I'm proven wrong, there is no such thing as a trail override.

As said as well...if the tires are just boiling (not hooking up) it's not going to shift very well either.

Two reasons...I have the extended lockout cover...and you need to keep the ball/pushrod in oil to keep it from causing issues, even with a pancake bearing. That being said, if it's improperly adjusted ray...it could creep regardless.

The dunable overrides are very durable if you don't backload the living hell out of them. The few we've had come back were backloaded like a trail bike and the owners fully admitted to that... I've had mine in my 10 mil for 3 seasons...split my cases yesterday and the trans still looks fantastic. If the tranny was cut right, you should have no issues. 80w in an override is definitely a problem. Run 2 full qts of ATF Type F. Change it every other ride.

If the porting on the cubs is stock and just cleaned up...then small bore shearer or CPI. If it's ported, run what whomever ported it recommends.

You don't need loctite on the bolts that hold the springs down, and they only need 7.5 ft. lbs or torque. They will snap much beyond that. I would check to make sure you're not missing the THICK ass washer behind the clutch basket and make sure the kick starter assembly is in place properly.

The only S&S I've heard of is Harley Stuff. I've heard of SSR...but Catain D passed a while ago. Donnie Rawls builts some great stuff.

What a great idea..maybe he can start driving on public roads in a car without a license too. He could run from the cops in a motor vehicle as well as on the bike...and we'll see him on cops. Hell yeah!!

Methanol.....LOL