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It is ultimately the best jetting tool there is. However, not many feel like taking a head off to check for jetting, it can be time consuming. You can use it to check for the needle...if you never really get past 3/4 throttle and ride it for a while like that. It takes a little time for piston wash to occur... Spark Plug heat/color is much easier to read, and if done right is just as effective. Piston wash can tell you more than just jetting... It can tell you burn pattern, for example as well...

I run billet bowls AND a pump on my bike, and I only run 300 feet. Overkill...sure. But I know fuel delivery will never be a problem, it allows me to concentrate on other things. Pumps are cheap too...the big, high volume DF62 (Black Mikuni Pentagon type) is around 60 bones and flows up to 65L per hour. The other pumps are half price and flow 30 to 35L per hour...

My biggest problem with that site and those pistons are the rider credits the pistons to being able to beat other bikes he couldn't before, etc. etc. Either the motor was flat out worn out, out of tune or the guy learned how to ride. NO Piston on the face of the earth makes that big of a difference. However... In a worn out motor, ANY new piston is better than what's in there.... If you guys are having good luck with them, great. I'm trying a new piston this year myself from Vitos for my cub. Cost is about the same...so it's not a money thing, I have faith in the design and idea behind it.

Shearer Chrome is garbage...I'm talking show quality. I run an alky bike...so there is less heat in the pipes than a gas motor. The chrome was flaking off mine after a year. And I wash/clean mine after the races. Luckily (or unluckily) this was the first time I split a seam on my pipe and they got re-chromed as a result. Chrome has been ok since then....but I would find a good local chromer and get them done before you run them.

So.... I shouldn't put Trinity or Pro Circuits on my drag bike? Damn it...cancel that order.

Bruce... If you guys don't work a deal...sell it on fleabay. They're going for around 300 used.

Hello everyone. ATVDragracers.com and BansheeHQ have always enjoyed co-existing together in perfect harmony....LOL. What's good for the sport is good for the sport as a whole. In two weeks, in Cleeves Ohio is the first race of the Pro Truck series. I know, this is a banshee site. I know, I ride a banshee.... The series is put on by Rich from Richards Auto Parts out of New Baltimore Michigan. Those that know him, will tell you what a stand up guy he is for us racers and for the sport of sand drag racing as a whole. The guy promotes races like no other. There will be 5 classes total that an ATV/Quad can run in. Friday night there is a hill climb, and Saturday there will be 4 classes. On Saturday, there will be two heads up classes and two bracket classes. The bracket classes will feature a pro tree AND a sportsman tree. The Heads up are based on Engine size. Under 550 cc and over 551cc unlimited. If you have a single 4 stroke or two stroke under 550cc you can run a turbo or Nitrous. Any two stroke twin under 550 cc must be Naturally aspirated. Anything over 551 cc regardless of 2 or 4 stroke, single to triple or 4 cylinders, Nitrous, Turbo...etc., must run in the 551 and bigger class. That's as fair as we can make it for the 4 stroke and big single crowd. I hope to see many of you there. It's a whole new surface at the track...and should be a great time!! Here's the flyer. Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I'm going to drop off a bike this coming weekend for fitment. I'm very excited about a new set of pipes. While I'm not a trail rider, MX rider, etc., Tom still has something up his sleeve for me. I'm not worried about Dyno numbers...never really have been. I could start my own paper filing company with how many time slips I have on my bike over the years, I know what it runs. Really looking forward to doing something new.... If I can get a set of pipes that will come on a little sooner than most drag pipes but still have incredible overrev/top end, I know they'll be a winner. My bike won't be done for a little while..but I promised some pretty pictures when I get it together. It would be nice to deliver some solid time slips as well.

Wish I had the cash... Anything Joe has is clean and top notch, no junk, no short cuts. I would seriously ride this around town for kicks. I already ride my 50cc 4 wheeler pit bike, this would be a step up... Good luck Joe!!

A properly cut std neutral should not jump into gear...mechanically. However, once they're cut...they click into gear so easily, it is very easy to "bump" the shifter and hit false neutral, etc. I personally have more confidence in a N down. I do a burnout/clean out in first...pull in the clutch and wrap the gas a few more times, then click up into 2nd...and I'm ready to go.

NO offense Gray...but you pretty much thread jacked this guy's questions...and I'm rereading this whole thing realizing if I answer your question, I'm not answering his question... I got confused real quick as to what this thread was about....

"feeling" the cylinder probably won't do much good... You can infared gun the cylinders, just like an EGT gauge in the exhaust, you have to know the proper temp and tune of your bike to begin with. You can't just say, well...the exhaust temp is 1400 degrees, I'm good. Placement of the EGT, fuel type, etc. all have a place in the measurement, just like cylinder temps do. Reading temps is fine, but you absolutely must figure out the baseline of where it should be at in proper tune for your particular setup, you can't just look at a single number and say it's good. It would be like saying...ok, my bike has 175PSI cranking compression...that's good. There's way more to it than that.

I've read they R&D'd this trans on a 75HP stocker motor with no issue. WIth all the failures, I doubt they did much. WCR has always cut a pretty nice tranny otherwise, this gremlin really took it's toll. What'll be more impressive is how fast he can turn around and mend fences with other customers and his dealers who've been waiting at bay....

Looks good homie...

I've tried punctuation after most of my sentences...and a capital letter now and then... Proof is in the pudding. I'd bet the twin record holder Dan Hull owns (A&S) has this pipe on his turbo scimitar...

His opinion and he's certainly entitled to it... Show me one product out there that everyone says is the best. It'll never happen... For duner/trail motors, I'd choose CPI, Trinity or T5s, especially with an aggressive port job. To each is own...and at the end of the day, the person doing the motor work should make the call based on his conversation with the customer.

75 HP out of stock cylinders and Fatty Pipes...that ought to be one healthy running motor...I'd like to see it! Honestly, run him. Both bikes have advantages and disadvantages. Weight, gearing, surface and rider ability (as well as tuning) all come into play. No way to say...

You can get your stock tranny modded to shift 100 times better than stock, still keep all 6 gears. You will NOT be able to shift under full power without the clutch. I agree 100% on a ported set of stock jugs. Get a cool head with cut domes or the 4 mil. If you tell the builder not to get too silly, say 75HP or so or under, a good quality clutch kit should be ok. If you're going to be abusing and slipping the hell out of the clutch, a lockout is a good idea. First, you need to get a budget. Then...you need to add 25% to that budget, literally...because shit comes up. And I say CPI or Trinity pipes with PWK35s.

Take off the basket, and turn over the crank. Make sure it does. Then remove the crank gear and put the basket on. Make sure the clutch turns over. You should be able to figure out the culprit from there. (Obviously, you need to be 100% sure the bike is not in gear if it has a chain and tires on it...)

If you throw too much at it...it won't burn.

You can use the set he's making after I'm done with them... Actually...JD...I have no problem handing them over to you...or any of my other bros to try on their bike. Each one is different!! I talked to Tom earlier...I"m going to see him next weekend to deliver a bike. JD...we're going to need to get some pretty pictures for him to showcase his product. On a side note...damn shame I didn't know Tom lived in MI. I would've stopped at his place much sooner...helluva nice guy to talk to on the phone.

Thanks JT... I will call you in about 10 minutes or so Tom...

That will be MORE than safely rich. On my 421 cub motor with 35PWKs I ran CEL needle, 48 pilots and 150 to 155 mains. I would grab every other size main, like a 150, 155, 160, etc. When you get just about right, then buy one of the "inbetween sizes" like a 152 or 158 if needed. Cubs love fuel, if you left it a hair rich, it'll last you a while and won't hurt a thing.

You sure built gregrob a pretty bike...he should be proud to ride it. Missing a rainbow cut grill...otherwise, it fits him perfect.

When I needed to buy 4 kits over three years ago, I hit up Alloy Boltz and Fastener Guy on Ebay. Alloy Bolts treated me like shit. Fastener guy not only gave me a little break on the kits, he gave me a break on shipping and upgraded the shipping from ground to 2 day...and was more than helpful. As said 100X...the antiseize if your fault Alf. But customer service on alloyboltz is/was awful when I needed kits a few years ago. I'll add one more thing, if you powder coat your frame, run a tap through every hole, I don't care if it was taped off and properly masked. I've broken off a bolt in a freshly PC'd frame despite using antiseize. Others have also said the bolts/nuts are not strong enough for the cases....mine's been fine for years. No case sealing issues.... The kits do not come with the swingarm pivot bolt (way to exhorbant on cost) the foot peg bolts or the upper J Arm bolts.