dajogejr

Stay away from it. 1000 extra RPM on a two stroke is not controlled by the igntion....there are NO rev limiters placed on the ignition... Porting, intake, exhaust and compression all are the major players in how far your engine can rev. Unless you're going to buy a dyna ignition (three times that price) and have the means to set your own curves on a dyno, stick with the stock CDI box and a timing plate... You can buy a brand new SRP CDI from magic which "claims 1000 extra RPM" as well....not worth it...

Give us some more details on exactly what it is you're trying to do...and maybe we can help...

You're exactly right. Although the crank will drop right in to the cases without any machine work...you will have other special needs. You'll have to get your head cut, use 795 series or blaster pistons, and...if you don't run a spacer plate (I don't recommend one) someone will have to match your porting for the longer stroke. Make sure you get the long rod stroked crank....stroke is 2mil longer, rod is 5 mil longer.... Give Jeff a call at FAST Racing, or PM him here...his name is FASTOYS. Even if you're not quite ready to buy, he can at least tell you what you're looking at $$ budget wise....

Sorry to muddy up your thread akita...but.... Toybox, that's exactly why I stripped my harness, pulled my lights, removed my key and headlight/run switch and bought ALL NEW igntion parts, stator, CDI and coil. I had enough things to worry about on my new build to try and figure out electrical too!!

Toybox, that is a damn fine point. He did specifically said he fouled it before he could start it... His jetting is rich IMO...however, it should at least run, if not bog a little in the upper.... Electrical is often overlooked...I must agree. As are things like old plugs, old stale gas.... And stock coils are notorious for having the caps fail....

I'm glad you asked....let me explain. People come here for help, would you agree? Such as you're doing right now... There's probably a good chance those who had issues damn near a year ago have them solved by now....if not, you should PM them to try and help....and you ALREADY DID make new posts...on old threads. As I pointed out...a ton of them.... Meanwhile the folks who have posted here in the last day or two...or even the last week...get their post shuffled down to the bottom because you're bored and feel like diggin up not 1, not 2...but about 10 old threads to say ha ha.... Be a little more considerate for those members trying to get help and learn. Nothing wrong with learning, we all do that every day. But give some courtesey to those with problems right now...not those that had issues 10 months, 6 months or 3 months ago.... That is fair...isn't it??

Remove the left side cover (and foot peg, and gear shifter, etc.) take some compressed air and blow the crap out of this area... I'd bet with a power washer you got water in by the flywheel and stator...and double check your electrical connectors.... You can get a wire drier at automototive stores, comes in a spray can. I'd coat the spark plug wires, and other wires with that stuff, too... You really have to be careful power washing around gaskets, seals and electrical parts...

Cool beans.. If you have the money, get a set of 270 and 290s as well...to fine tune it. If you put in 280s, it runs pretty good, the plug chop turns out ok or a little rich...leave it....

Jay... are you running with or without an airbox still?

PLEASE LOOK AT THE DATES OF THESE POSTS BEFORE YOU GO ADDING TO THEM. NOVEMBER OF 05 WAS THE LAST POST.... YES, I KNOW ALL CAPS MEANS SHOUTING...I'M HOPING YOU'RE GETTING THE POINT. PLEASE LET OLD THREADS DIE...THANKS... ::

Damn that sure is purdy...and for 1900 it damned well better be.... If you're looking for the total trick factor, this is it. But, if you're worried about strenght and reliability, stock will hold up to a 4 mil no issues!!

Yes, they're the same. Unless you STRICTLY drag race, and nothing else...look into the newer "dunable" and/or "Trail" overrides... They cost a little more, but are much, much more forgiving....

it richens up the midrange, giving you a snappy feel. On a dyno, it might net 2 to 3 HP...you probably won't feel much, if anything...but, you will have better throttle response. I think you'll get more benefits from the ported/stroked motor you plan on building, no hurt in buying them now if money is not an option. But...that 200 bucks or so would be better spent on porting or that crank, IMO....

Big bucks...as I'm sure you can imagine. Head over to planetsand.com I'm sure one of the site sponsers would be happy to sell you one....

And you felt the need to dig up a 10 month old post why??? And after looking at like the next 10 in a row...you dug up a ton of old posts...why? If you're bored, PM night...he'll keep you entertained. Unless you have breaking news or something worthwhile to add...can you please let old posts die??? :: :: :shrug:

It's a non-powervalve twin two stroke...you ain't gonna have it out of the hole anyways. When you're racing, you're going to have to learn how to use the clutch out of the hole anyways, shaving the flywheel just lets it get on the pipe and start pulling sooner...that's all....

Nope...should be perfect. Just wanted to make sure you weren't running Crisco at 20:1....

PCs will be better...I was going by the DGs you had in your sig... I think there are better pipes than PCs...but, hey...they're still better than DGs... Porting prices vary by builder. Call a few, see what they say and get a feel for how well they treat you, and go from there!

Very fine point indeeed. There's a jetting FAQ as well at the top, which explains the different circuits of the carb...so you know what/how you're jetting will be effective in relation to the throttle postion opening...

Dunno...how do your plugs look after a properly done plug chop? Sounds a little rich on the main to me...but, porting is the wild card there... Do the plug chop to be sure...

I hope you guys can turn that company around... Your website needs to be updated a little bit, that would probably help. If I were a no news customer and went to that site now, I'd just say...same old site, same ol BS. I would recommend a complete makeover!! Also...and this goes for CPI, Shearer, etc....it just urks me to no end that drag pipe manufacturers say "our pipe will work fine on stock motors" too... When in all actuality...drag pipes normally won't work as good on bone stock motors...and a lesser pipe will work better for stock port timings... I'm not picking on Rockets...ANY of the manufactures should be hung for making that claim!!!

Try a 280 main...you are too rich at 320 with the air box. Stock pilot, needle in middle clip. Turn the air screw 1.5 turns out...see how that runs. Also...what kind of oil are you using, and at what mix ratio?

I'd call Jeff too... I know he's busy right now...but, he'll probably slow down a bit in the winter. To be honest, Dinner...I'd be looking into a different pipe setup, too. You don't want a drag pipe, i.e. Shearer, CPI, RDZ, Rocket.... But, I think you'll have a better power spread with some T5s, Trinity's, PT Mids, DMCs.... I think Jeff calls it his "More Everywhere Port"... Unless he was confused as he was finishing up the last slice of pizza when I was talking to him... Don't worry about being bored 65.... I think you mean it's a 65mm piston, since they don't make a .065 over kit.... That means you're on a .040 over...about half the life of the cylinder. Get yours ported... Worse comes to worse...you can get the cylinders re-sleeved and just have them port matched... It's not a big deal. Now...if you were at .080, .090 or .100 over, then I'd tell you to resleeve and port....

That "perfect jet kit" is only perfect if you leave the airbox on....and don't ride at really, really high altitude...and don't run it in really cold temps. The problem is...Toomey markets that jet kit for use without an airbox (their 1 into 2 foam filter) and it's way lean without the airbox.... Because the banshee is a small piston'd twin...it should start that way everytime, when jetted correctly... Nothing starts as easy as a twin two stroke (ok...four stroke guys...jump in here with the electric start, etc...ha ha...)

I'll ask a buddy, I"m sure he'll know 100%. What kind of Mikunis are they? TM series, etc??