dajogejr

4 mil adds more torque and bottom, a few ponies overall... I have a dyno chart from my 421 cub, on race gas, with stock carbs and T5 pipes, bone stock 10 year old ignition.... I've yet to dyno it on my RDZ/Shearer inframes, updated ignition and 35PWks (going to alky now) but I still have the dyno chart if you're interested...

You're simply not going to get to 93db with down tubes only. They are rated at 98db from Toomey, and I'm sure that's a brand new stinger with new packing... The Hush Kit claims to get you to 87db. I think you're going to end up fabricating and spending time that will be pointless in the end...to be honest.

I'd give her the big mac...supersized...just for that bank account...think of the toys!!! :beer:

Thanks, Braxton. I haven't seen him on the boards...maybe he's sick. I'm calling him now... Braxton... I just called him. He said he replied to the email address you used to send the pics, etc. He hasn't heard back. He also said he'd PM you here on Banshee HQ.... Sorry to be middle man'ing the deal, but...I'd like to see my boy and you hooked up!

Because...you wanted that new bike smell and BNG (Bold New Graphics...LOL )

Yes, you'd lose low end for trails but gain top end with a 15 tooth, not what you need for trails. Lightening the flywheel will help in trails. prices range, 35 to 60 bucks plus shipping....

I personally like Jeff @ FAST racing. He's always treated me right. however, you specifically asked for flywheel lightening. I don't believe Jeff does that. That's probably about one of the very few things he doesn't do...and, he truly is a one stop shop as well. Ask him...he might. Go to his website: www.farmandsandtoys.com

Fresh packing and/or the hush kit...probably the most cost effective and easy to do...sorry... Ting Ting....that is one sharp looking ride, very nice!!

Do one at a time, and note/label which slide came out of which carb. Compress the springs all the way with your fingers, then push the cable into the slide...and tip the slide upside down while shaking it a little. A brass insert will fall out, that holds the cable in place. Then, jiggle the cable, it'll come out. Next inside the slide, remove the two small phillips. The spring is the trickiest part. Once you do that say...oh, a million times, it becomes very easy...

Uh...have you seen Kfake's Ferrari...? Nuff said...

Cold, Free ones!!! Bud Light or Michelob Light or Coors Light. Anything but Miller products... Killians or Sam Adams isn't too bad either.

How did you switch carbs, stockers? Side to side...or with a different set? Reason I ask is they have a left and right carb... Chock tube on? Get rid of that turbo blue BS. Unless you're running a lot of compression or timing (which, was not listed in your mods) all you need is pump gas. I too say get a leak down tester and check....you could've very easily not sealed it up or installed the crank seals wrong....

Jeff @ FAST gets my vote, but call around. K&T, Redline, Patriot...they all have pretty good prices. Everyone is going to add their two cents on who to buy it from, do a search...make some calls!

Or sue the people in the audience for saying cracker....

Sorry..G. They will if it's put together and tuned right.... 100HP is very possible on gas with just a clean up port. I bet mine on gas was either at 100 or with a few ponies of it. Granted...I run a average compression and a boat load of timing...it's doable. I'm hoping to be 105 to 110 with alky... Once my build is done, you can count on a few hours of dyno time tuning in my Dyna, the meth, etc. The real sad part is...a 7 mil motor will net roughly another 10 HP, and a 10mil another 10 to 12 on top of that. Once you go past 4 mil, you're spending cabbage to jump to 7 or 10, and...since the price is the same, you'd be a fool not to go 10 unless you steal a 7.

I'm going to let you off the hook. All of us US boys are just jerking your chain....there are no such bikes. They are the same as they've always been, we're all just making fun and relieving a little stress....at your expense. No harm meant by it, all in fun.

I think the point is, this topic has been covered a gazillion times. A. the bike has remained relatively unchanged since 1987. B. it is well known there is a 2007 model outside the US, complete with BNG (Bold new Graphics) C. A search on 2007 banshee will yield all the results one could ask for. I'd say the majority of our users are from the US (by that I mean BHQ board members) and we're all well aware that there is no 2007 model. Every time someone brings up the 2007 model is "Still available" just seems like the same old, over and over and over....

Yeah, not trying to sound cocky or like a jerk...but, I think any money invested in your bike now other than porting/fresh top end will be a minimal gain at best. Bolt ons only take you so far, you're there. Porting will make that a WHOLE NEW bike, period!

I bought the four stroke model...900cc 4 cylinder. 1 into 4 carb, 4 into 1 exhaust.... It's real torquey.... I can trail ride and drag race with it, better than any cub....

What does that mean??

Keep the 400. It's a GREAT trail/woods bike. Pipe it, jet it...maybe a mild cam. My buddy had a 440 kit and 14:1 piston in his old 400...it was a TOTAL blast to ride, drag race or trail friendly all day long. It is way more nimble and better suspension for the tight/tough stuff too. If you did 50/50...then I'd start to contemplate a banshee...but it'd still be a tough sell. Many of the riders on here have two bikes. A banshee setup for drag/duning, and a 450 setup for trails/woods and general playing around. I plan on going with a 450 maybe next year sometime....cause my shee when done will ONLY see the strip or dunes!!! (Or ice...very soon...LOL)

You've got it backwards. A head with smaller domes will not let it rev out as quick or as far....barely, but...it will get you more torque and probably a few HP.... You could probably advance your timing a bit more, but you might need to run straight race gas to be safe. Gearing plays a big role, don't kid yourself, as does tires, suspension....and rider skill.

Dave Moore is the man...I highly doubt you'd find one person to knock him, his work, his ethics or what he's done for this sport. That guy does it all.... Hours of Opperation : Monday - Friday 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM Pacific Time Phone Number : (971) 240-0967 Please leave a message if we do not answer. We will get to your call as soon as possible. Mail Address : Dave Moore Racing 1091 Chemawa Rd N Suite #11 Keizer, OR 97303 E-Mail Address : [email protected]

I don't see anywhere in this thread about you shaving your head or having smaller domes. You're wasting your money on race gas/pump gas mix. +4 timing will run on premium pump gas all day long, stock compression.... I'd use Yamalube @ 32:1... Need to cut the threads off that plug, and zoom in closer.

Fix the overheating problem, coolant alone will not do that for you, no matter what additive or mix you put it at. Something else is not right, bent radiator, clogged...shot water pump impeller...etc. I use straight water in my cub during the spring/summer months, and just put 50/50 in it for ice riding coming up... figure out the problem first. Engine ice will is coolant AND antifreeze, by the way, but you want to run it 100%, don't mix it with old coolant or water. It's good to 26 F below... We used to be able to ride in Port Huron, but it sucked.... There are no good places to ride by us, unless you know someone with a lot of land.... Lake St. Clair, however....will be frozen in a few months...should be fun.