dajogejr

Exactly what I was going to write. However, I powerjetted my 35PWKs thinking I was going to use them to switch to booze.... When the riding temps went from 75 to 40 degrees or so, it was nice to just add a little fuel instead of rejet.

Hey... Is it possible those washers are pressed into the crank? I would think if they were on there and came off, that thing would be wasted... I would have the crank checked for Trueness, as well...Stu. I mean, you have it ripped down this far, why chance it for a few bucks or minutes of your time for something so small.... I don't know if those cranks need to be welded or not, my guess would be probably no. I'd try not to cut any corners...but, as the same time...I wouldn't empty my pockets either... :beer:

Fair enough... as said, 7G's can go a long way towards something else. I'd say for a few hundred bucks, you could probably have your frame lightened and strengthened to the point if you broke anything, the frame would be the last thing you'd have to worry about. If you were gonna make a living out of riding MX/desert or SCORE races with your banshee...I might think about it. Other than that...yeah, overkill to suck your wallet like that.

The fact is this.... Your reasoning and logic is all out of whack. 7 G's is out of the question for a 20 some pound savings.... wrap to ride in Mexico to talk to girls... C'mon now...what kind of sense does that make?

This is from the guy that wants to wrap his exhaust in header tape so the bike is quieter...so when he's riding double with girls they talk and not have to yell. Sorry...I don't think saving 21LBs to ride up and down the road to talk to girls is worth 7G's. Spend it on chrome or billet parts, the chicks won't know what aluminum is...but, they'll like the bling. :shoothead:

25 to 30 degrees F requires a main jet change normally....

Are you running one carb or two? If two....jetting should be close. If you're running duals....those mains are HUGE.... What does your plug look like? Also, riding temps and elevation will help.

Had the AAEN on mine as well...Loved it.

18 paddle rear tire, please tell me that's a misprint....??? Save the money for porting, or get a shaved flywheel and timing plate now for around 100 bucks.

True enough. I've had a beer...gone for a 20 minute ride. Stopped...had another...but that was about it. Yeah, I'm not a fan of getting corked and riding. Plenty of time for coldies after the ride is done. One of the reasons I like Silver Lake, no jerk offs flying around dunes half crocked! I like my beer, but I like my skull, arms and legs intact more...

Damn...Mike. C'mon down here to sea level and jet your bike....it'd be a whole new ride for you... :yelrotflmao:

Mike... How's that head coming along for the super cubs. I heard you were working with Rob to design one...just for the Super... Cheetahs might only make a bit more...but, I think you'll agree they'll be easier to get going and won't punish you if you shift early...etc., due to the PV... Just my thought, anywho...

Serves that dipshit right. I have no problem at all with having A beer or POSSIBLY two at camp and going for a ride. 10 empty cans and a bottle of Zam? He deserves what he gets...hopefully it's the shaft, via the law or Bubba in a cell.

You can count on that!!! Washburn..where ya from? I think JT and I are going to head to Clarksville quite often, too. It's only a 2 hour drive for me, 1.5 hour for JT. 300 ft sand drags, lots of fun and I've met some cool cats going there this year. Clarksville (Bob's Family Raceway) is off 96, exit 59. About an hour or so East of Grand Rapids. Should be fun... I got a bunch of buddies with 4 pokes too, all in good fun to head out there. JT and I pretty much ride for a bit, then spend more time BSing with friends and fellow riders on the side... Run a few more times....BS...it's all good! I have as much fun BSing with the crowd as I do riding. well...maybe... :biggrin: I had a great time with my little 4 mil this year. I'm doing some more work, gonna ride it all next year...then, who knows. I might build a big Cheetah...or, I might just leave it as is and get a 4 stroke for some trail riding with buddies. Yeah, it gets pricey any way you slice it!

The octane debate could go on and on...and everyone is different. However.... I think it's best to start out safe. While you don't need race gas on a bone stock machine, once you start upping the compression and/or timing, it's always best to start off with more than what you need, and slowly and carefully work your way down.

I rode it hard and put mine away wet for 3 years. After that...I just offed it for my next project, and never gave the tranny any thought. I wasn't about to split the cases...the bike was about 10 years old when I got rid of it. I honestly would say this....there's two ways to think about it. If there's little or no gap between the reeds and cage, you really don't have to change 'em. However, as you pointed out...the whole top end had to come off to service them...so, it's off now. I think you can get boysen reeds for that for about 25 to 30 bucks. To be honest, I'd spend it just for piece of mind...but that's me. Will you notice a performance gain? well...you never rode the bike before...so, who's to tell? I think for the small amount of money multiplied by how much effort it'd be to replace 'em...yeah, I'd buy new. You won't make a rocket out of it by reeds alone, but...piece of mind has a price, too!

One word... PRICE. My next big motor build will be a Cheetah motor. Probably a 10 mil...but, this little cub runs damn good for me right now...I'm not done with it yet!! I'm pretty sure the Cheetah motors take different reed cages than the Cubs do. CR250 cages...but again, not sure. They might even take a different head. The cubs are a bolt on cylinder. They accept the stock pistons, head, exhaust, reed cages, etc.

Actually, there's two adjustments. First is idle, once warmed up, place it at the back of the carbs to check the vacuum at idle, adjust accordingly. Then, with a steady hand, hold the throttle about 1/4 way open, check the vacuum again. Idle is set with the black plastic screws going into the slide tower. Off idle is set by the adjusters on top of the carbs.... Remember, you need to have some slack in the cable, as well. If not...it will idle up when you turn the bars lock to lock. I think you may be overlooking other things. Have you done a leak down or compression test on this motor?

Umm...where on this thread does it say they do have a powervalve? Correct, they are just like a cub. NO Powervalve. Cheetah motors have PV's, not cubs or supers. (G---Super stands for Super Pricey...) I read one of Nate McCoy's threads on PS. They've gotten 105HP out of gas on a 421 cub, and 107 on a super. Kinda hard for me to justify that kinda cabbage based on that...I can take a dump to make up 2HP...LOL...

Honestly...look at that piston. Think about how much of the metal made it down into the bottom of your motor as a result, the metal went somewhere...it didn't just vanish. If someone got on here and told you NOT to split the cases and check out the crank, you'd be getting bad advice... A wise friend said "you can go broke trying to save money"... You might be able to save the crank now with new bearings, etc. You probably won't be as lucky next time.

Rob @ RDZ racing as well as Nate McCoy has been doing a lot of work on these super cubs. From what I've read, they take quite a bit of porting work to get them to run as good or better than a 68mm cub. So...that being said, I can't see them being that good of a deal, yet. They start out more expensive, they need a special head which a few manufacturers have stepped up and started making, and they need considerable porting (read...even more $$) to get them up to par. RDZ posted some dyno specs on them...and it was a minimal gain last I checked...and Rob did quite a bit of porting on it to get it there.

There is no 100%...only averages and best guesses. Once you're in the 150ish range with timing, usually you need a 50/50 mix of pump/race gas. Over 165ish and timing, race all the way. You only need octane to the point your motor doesn't detonate...and if you have a good ear and are willing to check plugs often, you can always mix it 75/25, 50/50, 25/75...etc. But, you get to a point when enough and you just throw full race in there, run some real timing and get some good compression... There is always alky...

No prob...it can be done for almost next to nothing. Cut the head gasket or oring for the head and smack the flywheel a few times with a big hammer. Then, loosen a plug wire...you should have one that look just like it...for a little while...

Has this been resolved? If so...post up please. I've met and talked with Ray in person last year. Met up with him to demo the Rocket Pipes, and met up to give them back after my trial. Nice guy and honest with me.... He does a lot of ebay wheeling and dealing...although he isn't around HQ as much anymore... Shoot him a PM.

The broken up line was one of the first runs, leaking head and a shattered flywheel. The 84.8 run was with the T5s and Stock carbs/Ignition.