dajogejr

What does that mean? Drag Race, MX, SCORE, Baja, TT, HARE Scramble...etc? I think I covered it...drag race with some pipes, opened up air box and jetting....you should be fine. Forget about trails....that's their domain.

Now that is very good info to know. I run resistor plugs anyways. Dyna says run resistor, Nology says run non with their hotwires.. Well...the way I look at it is this. The coil is cheaper to replace than the Dyna...so, I'll do what they say. ran BR8ES on gas all year....no issues whatsoever....! Thanks Lobo...

I'll take into consideration it's a stock or piped only raptor. Get rear tires that will hook up, first. Then pipes, a good K&N or uni air filter, remove the airbox lid and get a proflow adapter. I say get Toomey T5 pipes or Trinity Stage IV pipes. Both good mid and up pipes....for stock port motors. Jet the bike correctly. If you buy used pipes, etc., this will all set you back 500 bucks (tires, too...don't forget) New...probably close to 750 or so. this should put you in front of a stock raptor if YOUR riding skills are up to par, only in a drag race. In the trails...forget it. That's 4 stroke territory unless you're gonna spend thousands on your suspension and chassis....

It sucks...trust me. I tried to tame a 421 cub with T5 pipes and stock carbs. The same setup I had for my stock motor all last year. Yeah, it ran and pulled a very impressive dyno..but it was no fun. Just as it hit the pipe...I'd be locking up the brakes. As bigred put it..it's all kinds of the wrong kind of power for trails.

Nice find, here's a direct link to the kit. However...as of right now, they're out of stock for the wrist pin bearing...and they're only 10 bucks more than Magic before shipping. I'd say between the two, it'd be within 2 or 3 bucks on total price...go with who has it in stock and can get it to you quickest!! http://www.motosport.com/offroad/productDe...HA;BANSHEE;1996

Putting a T5 on that motor is like putting a wash cloth in front of your mouth while you're trying to breath, quite literally. I had stock carbs and T5s when I first built my cub. Total waste of time and money...period. Shearer inframes are the best pipe for a cub cylinder in my opinion, especially inframes. I would say you are MORE than safe on the jetting, probably way rich. But...starting it and running it in the garage isn't going to help you tune it. Get a few sets of plugs, and follow this to a T to dial in your main. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html If you're gonna dune/drag race...get 35PWKs or TM35s. If you're gonna drag only, get 39s. Something tells me by your question of T5 pipes you want to trail ride this bike, tell me I'm wrong...

Wiseco...tried and true. Tough deal to beat here.... http://www.magicracing.com/Wiseco-Piston-K...ee_p_0-135.html

You don't want it too close to the coil if you're running a Nology and Dyna setup. I'm thinking of moving mine...but, I have mine cleaned up to the point it's not a big deal. Under the seat is where me fuel pump is gonna go... :beer:

Since you're already this far, it's only going to cost you another set of base gaskets at the very least....so, I'd take the cylinders off, get them and the pistons checked. If they're within clearance tolerances, hone and rings. If it's in question or close...top end and bore. Since you mentioned it's pissing coolant, now is the time to get the deck of the cylinder AND the head itself checked for flatness. You can do this pretty easily yourself. Get a flat piece of wood or metal. Get some medium grit sand paper, place the gasket side of the head down and move it across the sandpaper on the flat wood or metal in a figure 8 motion for 30 seconds at a time, applying very light pressure. take a look at the gasket surface...it should be all getting scuffed or scratched by the sand paper. if you have gaps or spots that are not getting sanded, keep going until the whole gasket surface is clean. Do the same thing with the jugs with the studs pulled out. Is the radiator in good shape, as well? Bike jetted correctly? I can also see you're running engine ice... I think you have a problem elsewhere...time to get checking!!

In 75 degree weather, (I split it...sorry...) I'd say start with 350 mains, 27.5 pilots and needle in the middle clip. It all depends on how aggresive that dune port is. real aggressive might like a much larger main.... A pair of 33PWKs would probably really wake up that motor in the future.

To be honest, your cub should never see trails, so...you shouldn't need the air box. A pair of clamp on foam or K&N filters with outerwears will suffice. You'd have to hack the hell out of your airbox, Shearers are designed to be run with pod style filters. I think that jetting is too rich, especially at 4000 feet, let alone sea level. usually guys with similar mods run 180's or 190's for the main, and cubs like a leaner pilot...but, since it's a 1 into 2....52 is probably about right. To be honest, bump up that timing to 8 or so, since you're going to be using straight race gas. Also...a cub benefits from a dual carb setup more than a single. however, I'd be interested to see how that thing runs...with a large single. that is a nice looking bike!!!

warm it up on old plugs. Take new ones put 'em in, run WOT to 5th gear if you can. Pull in the clutch, kill the ignition and hold the throttle wide open. Coast/brake to a stop. Put old plugs back in...cut the new ones and check for a ring. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Brand new plugs with one WOT run should have no coloring on the tip of the insulator...just the base.

Yeah...if you gotta ask, best left to the professionals. Here's what you need: Scroll to the bottom, left side of the page: http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/services.asp

For 60 bucks, this is a great tool. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes as for the hone, any auto parts store will have one. I like the BB style, they don't seem to get hung up on the ports as easy as the 3 stone style. Get a bb hone 1/4 to 1/2 inch larger than the bore hole.

How much $ ya got, what's done to the Raptor....and please take the caps lock off.

You have a little time left. I had 110 PSI beginning of last season on my bone stock 96 motor...beat on it all year. It was tired by year end and beginning of this year. Took quite a few kicks when cold, usually 9 or 10. But, ran great once warmed up.... ALWAYS hone cylinders when you put pistons OR Rings in. Rings need to seat properly, or you just wasted your time. Honing is dirt cheap at a shop, and even cheaper to buy one for yourself and use a drill....

Tell Rob to put that thing on a trailer and get it ready for the ice!!!!

Is your motor ported? No, don't get CPIs. They are drag style pipes which make the majority of their power way up in the RPM range...and don't work as well with non-ported motors. FMF and T5s are both fine choices. I'd say FMF has a little more low RPM power, less high RPM power in comparison to the T5s. If you ride fast trails, dunes...and drag race, get the T5s on a stock port motor are hard to beat. If you have the money, stainless steel Trinity Stage IV are nice pipes too. Woodsy, slower riding FMFs would be a better choice.

310's are lean for your main with POD filters and T5's. I ran 340 or 330's in mine. 27.5 pilots are fine. Toomey pipes are a mid to top pipe. That's how they are...light switch... Get an adjustable timing plate, shaved head and a shaved flywheel for more out of the hole and a smoother power delivery. 4th clip down from the blunt end on the dynojet/toomey needles is where I ran mine at. Stock needles have 5 grooves. Toomey/Dynojet have 6. They are longer/thinner than stockers... Too bad we have nowhere to ride here in SE MI, or I'd meet up somewhere close with ya and try to help out!

210 to 230 main, keeping the stock pipes. Needle should be fine, you may have to turn your air screws .25 to .75 turns in. Does the pro flow kit come with the sleeve/housing to bolt the air filter cage to the front of the air box? If so, you're set. If not...the stock lid has a groove in front to secure/seal the filter/cage to the air box. With an after market filter, no lid and T5 pipes, start at 280 mains and work your way down. Good luck...

You're better off with FMF, Trinity or Toomey T5 pipes on a stock port, CPIs will NOT make you happy...

Just like a car...the rotor has it's minimum thickness. No, you probably won't be able to turn it out. I'd see if you can find a used one. When you think about it....your average brake pad for a car probably fits several different models, and millions upon millions of them are sold. There are a TON of after market companies selling them, as well. ATVs or other specialty vehicles are very small in the after market world such as this. Remember, higher qty. = less price. If the rotor is gouged deep, get a new or new(er) used one. Or else you'll be buying 25 dollar brake pads again, very very soon.

At the very least, hone the cylinders (you will have to regardless if you re-ring or piston and ring it.) Take it to a machine shop, have them mic the pistons and cylinders. If they are safely within tolerances, re-ring it and assemble. Vito's and Magic Racing carry rings. However...usually rings are about 15 to 20 bucks per piston. You're buying a complete gasket kit, either way. With 50 or 60 hours on it, if you're tearing it down that far, spend the extra 150 or so and get it bored to the next size and get new pistons/rings. I know you're on a budget....but, with that many hours on it...it just makes sense to do it right the first time....

1. Not a big deal....there is a thread on here about splitting the cases, by BigRed350X, which is a good step by step. However....that paragraph hurt to read...how about a capital letter and the occasional period... :beer:

Alky is actually easier to tune than gas. You drill jets and dump tubes, add power jets...and you're done. You just open or close the power jet accordingly to get enough alky in the motor. However....as said above, timing, compression, squish angle...ignition, all important. Smaller gap on the plug, more oil in the gas, and you want a castor type oil. Maxima 927 and Klotz Benoil are the most common used with booze. If you're just going to dune and drag race with your quad, it is the way to go. Otherwise, good porting is really the key. I will only ride my quad now at dunes and the drag strip, so...I'm making the jump. My friends that have made it will never go back, either...but, they ride the same. Ice, dunes and drag. I consider myself a pretty good tuner on gas. I'm lucky enough to have a good friend who builds a TON of alky bikes, mine included...to guide me...