dajogejr

Learn how to slip the clutch and launch in second. You will make up time at the start by not spinning as much and not having to shit as quickly....trust me.

I agree...anytime you grenade a motor, take the bottom end apart to check the crank bearings and clean out any debris that could be sucked or dredged up...not worth the risk or money otherwise...

Simply put....you build and engine and buy accessories to match it. You wouldn't put a 200 shot fogger of Nitrous on a car, then put standard old street tires on it for the drag strip, would you? You don't see a top fuel funny car running through catalytic converters and mufflers.... A drag port is a wide open design and timings, and this port job will give you the MOST power, but it will be in a very short RPM range. Usually like 7500 or 8500 to 11 or 12K. Perfectly fine for drag racing (since...you'll be WOT beginning to end) but about worthless for anything else. Now...that being said, a T5 is not a drag style pipe. I would say it is a mid range and up pipe. BUT, it would be choking a drag ported motor out. So, you'd be wasting your money on a drag port with trail style pipes. You build your motor, then accessorize it, not the other way around. Mikey...I think you need to get a better source of info if you ask me. And, instead of beating around the bush, exactly what type of riding do you plan on doing? Keeping in mind, once you go with a drag setup, are you prepared to get large carbs, longer swingarm and chain, a lockup clutch and override, etc? To handle all this power?

I would check for air leaks first. Kai and I disagree on this one, but it's all good. I've never had to go more than one size on a main for JUST a VForce installation, sometimes lean out the needle one clip. These reeds actually richen up the midrange...so, the fact you think you're that lean tells me you might have an air leak. Just a thought.

I think you're more than fat enough to get a good feel for it.

I'm sending you two a gift certificate to Bed Bath and Beyond, and a free night's stay at the local holiday inn... :yelrotflmao:

Sorry for the misunderstanding... I agree...total dickbag.... It could be worse, like a 5K motor...but, ass clowns like this really screw it up for the rest of us...

Good to know!! The needle alone will not solve your problem, I don't think. Try turning your air screws 2.0 to 3.0 turns out...see if that helps. that's adding more air in...to compensate for too much fuel... Bump the clip one spot towards the blunt end to lean it out...

Are you racing on pavement with knobbies? that's gonna happen, they're designed for dirt. Otherwise, bent rims, front end tight? Chain tightened properly? rear axle carrier in alignment. Front end in alignment...

Spend your money elsewhere...they won't offer any performance you'll feel, or probably even see on a dyno. The main reason for reed spacers is when you get larger carbs...so the float bowl to clear the clutch actuating arm. They look pretty, too... They are not a bolt on item for power, though....

Hate to say it...driver error. Or his 700 has more into it than he is letting on... He will probably get you off the start. They are very torquey and hook up quite well. But, you should be pulling along side him by 3rd and passing him by 4th or so...

I believe he only has a couple losses, one of them being a submission on the ground. 21-4-2 http://www.sherdog.com/news/news.asp?n_id=6352

Lemme see... Here's one: http://www.wickedatv.com/DUportal30/home/d...hannel=Products

Hope so...can't stand Tito. There was a big to do about wanderlei silva fighting Liddel a while back. Then Cro Cop handed it to him. It simmered down after that. I don't think Cro Cop's ground game is GREAT...but, it's sufficient enough if someone has the balls to get past his fists and that left kick... I hope he does come over to UFC...I think he's smart enough to know that's where the money and exposure is.

T5s and 6's are hard to beat. If you have a few extra coin, Trinity Stage IV are very nice pipes, and built from stainless steel...however, they're pricier by a bit. For all around riding and performance, Toomey makes a great pipe, good quality and good fit.

Day late, dollar short.... But, happy belated birthday.... :beer:

Hey...Dan. If all you have is +4 key and stock compression, pump gas is fine. You're wasting your money on race gas, and possibly hurting performance (burns too slow). Pipe, jet and air filter that stock shee...and get tires that hook. No problem with a 700 Rappy. A cub shee is OVERKILL for a raptor, modded or not. Now I know there are drag raptors all done up that are pretty fast, so, not saying it can't be done. However, this guy didn't say anything about a built drag raptor...

Yeah, something isn't right if you can't launch a 4mil ported bike in 2nd...with a 14 tooth. I'd go smaller pilots....mess with the air screws first, then possibly lean the needle a clip or two. Does the bike pull hard and clean once you get out of the hole?

Yep, riding elevation and what mods are done to your quad? I'm thinking it's bone stock...in which case, a 230 will probably be ok. When you say blow a plug, you mean foul it, right? Carbs clean and free of debris? Air Filter Clean, and sealed right? If you're riding in 30 below weather...get a snowmobile for chrissakes... :yelrotflmao:

As said, clean it good, let it dry. Use a few large ziploc baggies.... Spray the filter with a quality foam filter oil. Put the filter in the baggie, massage it to spread the oil throughout the filter. Reattach it... Air filter oil is sticky, unlike motor oil or chain oil. It is designed to catch dirt and trap it....

The TORS has no effect on the jetting.... I'd double check to make sure the carb caps are snug and there is no air leak. WHERE is it boggy...bottom, mid..top? If the bike is running good other than a little boggy, I'd say the TORS are successfully removed. Is it possible the floats are a little stuck (possible metal shaving, etc.) and they're flowing a little too much gas? Just a thought....

Same...behind the swinger....

You can run a Mikuni fuel pump off a snowmobile and it will flow more than enough fuel out of a stock valve. You will need to drill and tap a barb on one of the intakes to get a "pulse/vacuum" to operate the pump. You will needs carbs setup for fuel pumps...otherwise, the normal run of the mill carbs will not flow enough gas, irrelevant if a pump is used or not. J... It's just like it seems for a powerjet. Close the valve (seated) is leaner, opening it is richer. I'd say start with a .120 main, too. Forget EVERYTHING you know about jetting for gas. Alky is the other end of the spectrum. You want to stuff as much alky in that motor just about to the point you hydrolock that som bitch. It takes roughly twice the amount of alky as gas. A few more things... I'd get B9EGV plugs, run benoil at about 24 to 28 to 1. I'd run benoil in my purge gas, 20:1.... They make a 1 gallon fuel can that can hang from your handlebars with a valve in it...perfect for purging!!!

Jet "Kits" are a waste of Money, IMO. Here's your best bet. Research... Look on here, there has to be someone with similar mods, similar elevation, similar temps. See what they run. Get similar jets....and go from there. Jet kits are a waste IMO.

There is no harm in removing it completely (overflow bottle). I'm going to run a line down the front of the frame dumping it under the suspension.... If any coolant goes into that bottle, which...it will from time to time just a tad, it will NOT suck it back out for the radiator, like it does in your car. So...it's really an overflow, NOT a recirc system.