dajogejr

Then get T5's or Trinity Stage VIs. If you drag raced and dabbled in fast trail riding, then I'd say CPI or Shearers... I love Shearer pipes, period. But I drag race 80% or better...and dune the rest. Any one of those pipes can have sparky clamp ons attached to them, Toomey actually makes some that snap on in place of the end caps, held on by a circlip...very, very sturdy.

SOLD to my boy banshee-man. thanks greg, pleasure doing biz as always!!!

Just hit the garage...looks like I pitched those bitches like a cheap ho. I do have two in the swingarm still...no good pics though. Yeah, I think my cub wasn't trail friendly due to improper head studs, maybe factory studs will make me a better rider so I can manhandle it with a -2 swinger in the trails.... LOL

I bought real nice, hardened metric studs from a local metric supplier. They were that brown color, not the silver color... Why I really like them is on the end, they had a hex head for a allen wrench. No need for a stud tool, no need to lock two nuts against themselves (although lately, I just hand thread them and snug them, no need to tighten) but they were the hardest bolt I could get...and they looked different, and cool. I sucked a little water in the cases on a trail ride (yes, trail riding a cub with stock carbs and T5s, hence why I say every time it comes up they are NOT Trail motors) and I lost a pod filter. Snapped a stud. Got it back to camp, replaced it with another stud, snapped a different one when I got it all back together and warmed up on a test ride. tore it down....tried one more time, same thing, different stud each time. After breaking three...and working on my shit all weekend, I had enough.... Got all new factory studs the next week and haven't had a problem since. I don't know if I got a bad batch or what, Tyler...but, I'm leary from past experience....and I never snapped a factory stud!! Actually, I think I still may have 'em in my tool box (I used two of them for my shitty stock style carrier adjustment bolts)...they look cool...but, just not what they cracked up to be. I'll try to take a pic if I can.

Greg.. My buddy has an older powerstroke... He has a programmable device that has a little panel that sits in the passenger compartment. It splices in with a radiator line running to the block, and it heats/circulates water in the block. You can actually program it to start circulating and heating at a certain time (say 2 to 3 hours before you wake up for work, etc.) I thought it was pretty nifty....

You either run more paddles or less swinger...I'd say weight has a fair amount to do with it, especially when you're swinging them out. Also...what kind of rear shock do you run with that swinger?

Here's pics of the axle. Click on pic for larger photo.

Thanks...I research a lot, and made very good friends with someone who has seen just about every combo come through a dyno, back to back...day in and day out. I've also absorbed a ton of info from this site and others, and by speaking to a lot of good folks and fellow riders at the drag strip and at the dunes... I couldn't even begin to name all those who've helped me and who I've learned from!!! Glad you enjoy!

I have a used durablue on my banshee I'm selling. 200 shipped, and it comes with a locknut and hubs. It is perfectly sound and straight...but, the chrome has flaked off. I'm going with a lighter and more narrow drag axle setup...that's the only reason why I'm selling it. If you're interested, PM me with your email for pics. And..I've never seen more than a +4 myself, either...which, this one is.

Unless someone chimes in with used ones, hit the dealer. Whatever you do, DON'T use metric bolts from the hardware store. After breaking 3 of the 10 studs I bought hardened from a metric supplier, I got smarter and got dealer studs...

Yep...and I loved them. At the track and the dunes. They just won't hook for the 10 mil I'm building on alky with a 14 over arm...or I'd be keeping them. If you are interested, PM me your email, I can send a bunch of pics and/or post them here. My buddy just gave me a great price on some bead to bead buffed 14 row haulers, 73 RO which is perfect for what I need for the new build. Either way....money gets the tires...and they're ready to go boxed up. SoCallinIt and Bansheeman will tell you I'm a no nonsense guy, ship fast and follow through with tracking to make sure you got the goods!!!

I got a feeling the only way I'll be getting rid of them is if I would've sent them in the same box as that cub and crank...LOL.

You get paddles for that little cubby yet?

For drag racing... A cub will flat out smoke a 404 setup. A 404 can be made to run very well with a lot of porting, but...what's the point? A cleaned up cub will wreck that motor in a drag race. Here's something for you to think about. If you go RZ...are you prepared to deal with all the electrical headaches due to the power valve system? Cub...this is a drag race/dune motor...which you bolt on, then get a longer swingarm, upgraded clutch, etc. It's an all top end motor, that responds best to large carbs and open, free flowing drag style pipes. How fast do you want to go, how much you got to spend? In reality, a lot of guys want an aftermarket cylinder, when a good port job from a reputable builder is cheaper and all they really need....

You really don't need benoil. That's the oil of choice for those that run methanol. R50 or techniplate will do fine. I'd stick with a name brand quality oil, I don't know what to tell you on what "Smells" good. That's personal preference...

My experience as well... And I agree...it might take an extra half kick for the longer rubber hose, if that...

Search button. Klotz has a smell all of it's own. 32:1 or 40:1 is just fine... Are you using R50, techniplate or benoil?

Here here...based on this theory...I consider myself a financial genius and Budweiser analyst of the highest regard. The problem is, when you take X invested in beer, divide it by Y spent sleeping with drunk women, and multiply it by Z child support for the accident...well, you might have been better off with the stock prices. At least then you know who/how you got screwed....

Pink....HOT Pink to be exact. :yelrotflmao: My buddy has Candy Blue on his TRX450R...looks nice, but not overly impressed. I like the Red/white color schemes of Yamie's...I'd leave it...or get some metal flake using the same color for the frame.

Had a few guys back out due to other commitments. Two haulers for sale, as title said...10 row, in very good shape on Douglas Black Label rims (.160 rims). Boxed and ready to go...they need to get gone! Perfect for a strong dune motor or cub.... 190.00 shipped.... PM Me if you want pics, etc...have a ton of pics of them at home.

Race fuel around here has additives to keep it fresh longer...but, I don't like running fuel older than a month or two. After that, it's lawnmower, weedeater and/or snowblower fuel!!

I sent pics of my paddles to that other guy last night, he never wrote back...so, they're up for sale if you want 'em...first to show cash get's 'em. I have 'em at work, and will be deflating them and putting 'em in a box today at lunch... Your call bud.

No one has asked the real question that needs to be asked. What motor/setup are you running. What size swingarm are you running? Both are critical as to what type of paddle will work best with your setup.... I think both of those paddles will be damn near the same... I had the 10 row, same size you mentioned on my cub in a 72" rollout with a 6 over swinger, yeah...the hooked real well, but I also weigh 245lbs....for what it's worth.

There are plenty of guys on here with stock coils. To be honest, before I bought a stocker from Ricky Stator, I'd get the Nology w/ hot wires. 53.00 + shipping for the RS new....about 135 or so for the Nology... So...yeah, I see your point. I'd try to find a used one here a little harder for cheap, then get the Nology when $$ permits. Tell you what, I'd bet if you PM the following members, one if not all of them would have it: NYUK, [email protected] or Braxton.... Those guys are the BHQ graveyard kings, and all solid...stand up guys to deal with.

If you are lugging the bike in lower RPMs, yeah, I wouldn't recommend the lightened flywheel. I loved how my bike ran, stock porting, with T5 pipes, etc. But, I rode it in faster trails and NO tight, technical ones. But, if you're gonna be on the gas in these trails, go for it...