dajogejr

Put the needle back to the middle clip. Adding reeds normally richens up the midrange a hair as is. That will take care of your mid-range blubbery. Just for the hell of it, close your spark plug gap to .020. I'd bet it's an electrical issue...not jetting. Your jetting is dead on, if not a hair rich....for our parts of town. I'd bet it's one of the following: Old/fouled plugs Bad Spark Plug boots on the end of the coil leads (known to go bad) Too large of a gap for the pickup coil/flywheel. Also...check all your wires, make sure they are not burned, cut...bare, etc. It sounds electrical to me... Have you done any work lately, or since the last time it ran right?

Yep...good point. These bikes aren't geared to run WOT for 10 to 15 seconds....you need to go bigger up front, smaller out back or both.... I could launch a stocker in 3rd gear pinned on asphalt and wouldn't dream of that on sand or dirt...

No no...it'll be one of those books like you see on ebay for "how to get a free set of pipes" or something like that...LOL... According to the thread on PS, he got these pipes for free and shipped for free too... I'm wondering if something is up.... An Al Qaeda plot, maybe??? lol

I get my heims from Grainger...see if they carry anything.

I can assure you with 100% certainty they are NOT waterproof. if you get an outerwear on them, they are water RESISTANT..in other words, if you get a small, small splash on it, it'll deflect it. By no means waterproof. Is it possible the wrong air filter is not sealed properly? Sounds like you're sucking water...common sense says if you run through water and it caused an issue....it's getting in places you didn't think it could...

The carbs are sticking...stockers are notorious for it in cold OR wet weather... Are you running a lid on your airbox? Holes, snorkel? You can take the slides out, take a real fine scotchbrite pad, and sand the slides out the outside and all edges. Have you taken the needle off and put the hold down back on? There is a vent hole in the carb slide that can not be plugged, if you put the cable holder/needle stay on backwards, it plugs that hole and the slide can not vent....water makes this worse. I would think if it's an air leak...going in water will make the engine want to die out...not rev up. Or you could get a set of 28PWKs and not have to worry about it... A few more things, when you removed the TORS, did you drill/tap the carbs and use the idle screws? Also...when you tightened the aftermarket tops down, did you hand tighten them or tighten them using a pair or channel locks or vise grips. If you over tighten those caps, it can stick...as well. They only need to be snugged by hand, then use the L bracket to tighten down and hold them from coming un done....

Since you're having all these tuning problems with your bike, I'd wait....seriously... I've read and replied to your threads on E2S. you're going to end up pulling your carbs apart, spilling gas on the paint, and it's gonna be a waste of time.... Wait till it's 100% tuned in right, then paint them. I personally would get them polished rather than painted...that's just me. And those carbs look powder coated, not painted...

Ask badassbanshee479 how much stronger his bike pulled when he went from IF to OOF. If you're gonna dune the bike alot, forget about OOF. They flap like wings. Otherwise, if you're just gonna drag race, OOF is the only way to fly. Look better, easier to tune and get to your motor...and will get you a few more HP (usually 1-4). Once you start getting into big bore pipes for the bigger bikes, inframes are a pain...less and less room in there. I'll never go back to inframes unless I build a duner.

Don, you asked so no offense...I look for banshees all day, every day... IN our shitty economy...you're not going to get over 3200 to 3500 IMO. Unless this is a show quality, chrome and polished blinged out cub/alky bike that you spent over 10K building (which, you'd only get 4500 to 6000 for...) they just don't have a lot of value. NOW....that same bike in California/West Coast will fetch 4000 to 5000 all day long. The value of banshees out there is literally almost double what they go for in our neck of the woods. That being said...it costs about 400 to 550 to ship from you to the West Coast....you might find a buyer out there that'll give you closer to what you want and pay for shipping... Good luck to ya!!! Dave

That guy should be fired...you can see with your eye 20 degrees. My guy will gaurantee it within .004 of true.... Send me the crank...if you want to save some money. If it's junk...you wasted money on shipping to and from me...

.015 to .020 is what it should be....030 is too much!

Lee can answer the second question.... As far as the first, you can get it directly from dynatech. 100 bucks, same software, same cable for all ATV CDIs...

Jeff has a long wait, and I'm not sure he's accepting any more work right now. that being said, well worth the wait if you can.... If you want to get rid of or sell that crank for cheap, let me know. If it's just starting to separate...I can get it fixed... Stock cranks once trued and welded are very, very tough...thick webs. A long rod and stroker crank are two different things...allow me to explain. A stroker crank has the rods moved outwards from the stock position, so a 4 mil would be 2mm off set (2mm on TDC, 2mm on BDC, =4mil total) A long rod crank has 5mil longer rods than stock...once you start to stroke the crank longer than stock...the rod has a tendancy to try and push the piston THROUGH the wall of the cylinder, rather than up and down the jug. The longer rod reflects less of an angle to the crank...less wear and tear and easier fluid motion for the stroker crank. Hope that made sense. Long rod only requires the use of a shortened pin/crown piston, aka 795 series pistons from Wiseco. A stroker crank requires a spacer plate OR the head/domes to bet recess cut so the piston can travel up into the head without smacking it. If you get a cut head/domes, you really should have the porting on the cylinder matched up to get the most out of the crank...

I'm an electrical idiot too...don't feel bad!! I thought ACDC was a band, not a current type... :yelrotflmao: I would Ohm the stator and coil...and make a nice new frame and engine ground. Good buddy of ours wasted a few hours of swapping coils, stators and CDIs this last weekend, ran a fresh chassis ground to the motor and it fired right up.

I appreciate the tip, Mel... I will be sure to be armed with pictures, receipts...and similar priced bikes for sale on the internet, etc. as proof... I won't pay a dime of insurance if it's not going to be covered....should anything happen. I live in a good area...but that hardly means shit anymore!!! Anything can happen.

Hmmm... I'm in MI, and have State Farm. My 96 last year (had title and everything) was 18 a month for FULL coverage. I specifically told my rep that hey...blue book aint' gonna cover my losses if it gets stolen/wrecked....I got 8 to 10 K in it (my old 4 mil cub bike) I specifically asked if I needed to carry a rider, etc. She said keep your receipts, and State Farm will take that into consideration should anything happen. Not the concrete answer I was looking for... I'm going to apply for a VIN and title for my bike soon....I've simply got too much invested to let some little punk steal it and walk.... I will walk into State farm with pictures and receipts showing that a few K won't cover the cost to replace my bike... If they can't give me in writing the amount of coverage I want...I'll find someone who can!!!

Shit happens real fast in 4 seconds....after that it's shut down and the return lane...

Stevie...free bump. You might want to put that the throttle cable is for use WITH the TORS system to avoid any confusion buddy!! :thumbsup:

Man...you must really know me... :yelrotflmao: Yep, import cap is all it is, I've read of others getting an automotive style cap with a higher pressure rating to raise the boiling point, as well. However, since I run alky....if that motor is getting hot, I've got other problems. Sure does look sweeeeet though!!!

Yeah, I was gonna say killer find, but you'd have to have fullbores to take advantage of it, or hack a hole in your stock plastics...LOL...

I run both, plate and dyna. Here's the key... Of course the Dyna has different advanced curves...it's in the paperwork when you bought it. They dyna will advance the timing at low to mid RPMs, for more bottom and mid-power, then start tapering off...or retarding it for more overrev. The plate will statically advance the timing across the RPM spectrum. So...I run the plate on mine at 7 for my alky 10 mil cub, and I'm just going to play with the different curves this Saturday. In a perfect world...you get the software, cable and a laptop to a dyno and pre-program curves that give you the kind of HP and power you want... I can tell you not many take advantage of the programmable curves on the Dyna... Then you wouldn't need a plate.

You're going to need to find out these things: How much compression it has, how much timing it has, and what kind/size of carbs it has. There are too many variables and answers until you get us that info. It is 100% possible...but, have to know those things first.

Seriously, If I had the extra cabbage, I would've bought them just to sell and make a 100 or 150....easily.

You know I'm on that like white on rice... Dan...Bob said you can be his Jockey on that 4 poke...LOL... 11-3 is perfect!!

I was gonna say sign up and PM him, but it looks like you got it covered...