dajogejr

In the right hands, the port job will only be enhanced and improved... Whether or not that's worth the $$ for you is totally up to you.

You have several choices. Same pistons will be used. You have a choice of running a spacer plate under the cylinders so the pistons don't smack the head, or...you can get domes or your stock head cut/machined deeper so the pistons don't hit the head. Domes/head cut is the better method in my opinion. Now..that being said. Because you are changing the stroke of the engine, the porting and port timing must be changed to match that. So...figure porting to match the added stroke. If all that is done is matched porting and dropping a 4 mil crank in, figure a 7% rough increase in power...give or take, and more torque, too.

More reliable motor. The longer rod (5mm longer, 115mm vs. stock 110) will cut down on the angle of the rod pushing the piston, and in turn will not try to push the piston through the cylinder wall. You might notice a little more HP or torque due to it spinning easier, but...not much to talk about. A piston with a pin height 5mm further towards the crown is used, called a "racer's choice" piston by wiseco, or a 795 series...or long rod piston. Blaster Pistons also use the 5mm offset pin, and if I'm not mistaken, it's .5 or 1mm offset towards the front of the piston as well. Not sure on that one...

You'll also notice with the arms being -2 the front shocks will be MUCH stiffer as well. When I had stock A Arms and my Marvin Shaws, they moved... With my Tyson J Arms, not sure if they are -1 or -2...but my damn shocks don't move hardly at all...it's like struts damn near...

While I have a Dave Germain cleaned up/ported 10 mil, not a K&T motor, badassbanshee's 4 mil cub has NO problem staying right on my ass. We race as often as we can, and normally...it's who gets out of the gate is the winner. We've both been guilty of sleeping a time or two...lol.

Gas or alky, that's the question... My 4 mil on gas liked 185PSI and a TON of timing via the Dyna and Plate, on 110 and it ripped pretty good. I can't run that much compression on my 10 mil on alky. I just got new domes ordered, and it should put me around 175PSI or so. With alky, on a CUB, 165 to 180 seems to be the number. Cheetah cylinders can get away with more because the cylinder is Oringed, not the head... I got a new one piece head for mine, the domes pumped out 195 PSI or so and I popped an oring after 3 passes on the ice. When I ran my stocker cut and Oringed, no issues all year with 175 to 180 PSI. Dome shape and design vary from gas to alky...trust me on that one. Rico...reread, said you're on gas. Put it to 180 to 190, keep on giving it timing...you'll be amazed how much of a difference from 4 or 6 to 9 to 12 degrees makes. Ask badassbanshee....he finally caved in to my suggestion....LOL.

Really??? that's very interesting, thank you very much for that tip!!!

Where do you ride and what do you plan on doing with it? More timing and more compression will help you keep bottom end... What kind of pipes are you running? A 4 mil cub has a great mid and up powerband, but it's because it's based on a drag port style layout, not the piston size or stroke of the crank. Those are just icing.... Even with bumped timing and compression, hard to say if it'll have the same bottom and mid as your stockers. I'm gonna say no...but somewhat close. Here's the key, when the power comes on, it's such a night and day difference, it's going to make the bottom and mid seem like much less due to the way the power is delivered.

Start with 340s...especially since it's still a bit cold. Work your way down from there. Worst case, as you said, you foul a pair of plugs.

Price must be posted. Pictures will help sell faster.

Word... I have heard both, some 5 mil rub, some don't. I've yet to hear of a 4 mil rubbing, not to say it won't. I'm sure if someone has a big pin 4 mil it'll rub as well....

No offense, you're asking for help, but are not even willing to remove the carbs and check for jets. Best of luck to ya... I'm not saying the jetting is off, take the carbs apart and clean them anyway. If carbs are out of your skill range, take them to the guy that did the work and ask him to clean them. Bike has been sitting...since you put it away. Old gas and oil can gum up the carb, it's small passageways, etc. If you're not willing to check the jet sizes, you're going to have to give the carbs to somebody to clean them. I'd bet they're plugged up....

You machine both halves, upper and lower, in the crank case area where the crankshaft lies/bolts in. A stroker crank bigger than 4 or 5mm will require removing metal so the big end of the rod does not rub on the cases.

Bigger than 4 requires case trenching. Here and there a 5 mil crank will not...but a 7 will for sure.

Our friends use high temp rubber around the inside and clamp them onto the silencer if they don't want to scratch/scuff them up.

Exactly... Go to your local Hunting Bank Branch, kindly deposit 10,000 into account 1234...LOL. J/K...thanks Colby.

Yeah, I told Travis the same thing... Here's he's racing and we're all shoveling snow...dammit. Trav...hows it feel riding that chassis with all that junk sticking out the front, gotta be a weird feeling. Looks pretty good!!! Man, I can't wait for sand!

In his defense, yesterday he did PM me asking what I thought the parts were worth. However..I normally go by ebay, forum pricing and craig's list to see what an item is roughly worth.

You ain't lying buddy... YFZ... I already have Tyson drag J arms...with Heim joints. Do you have any info on those spindles by chance???

I am resisting getting old and needing glasses, I think I'm winning...LOL. Thank you!!

I get quite a few PMs asking me if I know members...etc. I'll vouch for those I know...or have done personal business with. Ask a member that has been around a while, and use common sense...as NYUK said. The feedback in Nuetral forum is a nice tool as well. Speaking of Tools.... NYUK and Banshe-eman are pretty stand up guys.... LOL...

The irridium plugs I used (waste of money, IMO) could be gapped, are they the BR8EIX or something like that? Try run of the mil BR8ES plugs. New ones.

What jets are in the bike?

Oh yea.... but I left the hangers on the CPI pipes. I'll be running the Shearers for sand/strip. I only put the CPI on because I didn't want a metal stud to chew through my nice Chrome Shearers.

Buy a clymers manual. It has everything you need. You can check the ignition side crank seal without a pressure tester, but not the clutch side. The clutch side is the one that more frequently goes. More stress. However, there is no way to check it now that the top end is off because the bike has to be running.. So...now is the time, get dirty, learn how things work. Take cases out, split 'em, and learn. Replace all the seals, kits are cheap. I know online manuals are free, quick and easy to use. But, nothing can replace a complete paper manual. Unless you like a greasy keyboard and have a computer in your garage/shop.