dajogejr

Get a used set of cases, send me your crank, I can get it fixed/welded if it's not too bad, bearings are pretty cheap. However, if a rod is shot...better off getting a good used one. Get your stuff off ebay....for the best prices. Used cases off ebay range from 150 to 300 shipped. Used Cranks for 100 to 150 for stock stroke. New pistons and ALL gaskets are 180ish...give or take. Depending on how your cylinders measure out and their condition is if you need new cylinders or not, they can probably be bored then honed if they have enough meat on 'em. If you dissasembled it all yourself, you have the tools to reassemble, just use a clymers as your guide and for torque specs. Porting can run from 200 to 500...which normally includes a bore and hone.

One of two things, either you have an air leak, or the cable/slide is hanging up. Could be the throttle hanging up...as well.

I don't know who makes it, perhaps pivotworks, but they have one with a split so you don't have to take the arm off. you do have to chisel the metal collar off before you put it on...and it has a finger that rests on the swingarm. Magic Racing carries what's called a Slider pack, it includes the front slider, both roller balls and the rear chain guide. Yes...you need it.

Here's a good example. I bought a digital mic to measure main jets and drill bits for my old alky carbs, Keihins. I sold those carbs and picked up some Lectrons, which...don't require jets. However, I use the shit out of that digital mic. I didn't get a machinist quality, mega expensive one, just a harbor freight 30 dollar mic. It works for what I need it for.

Here is NYUK's uh...mullet, I guess. Definitely not gangsta

SHhh....don't let our high performance secret out of the bag... You know, with all these new trans-fat free oils, we might have to switch recipes....

Sorry guys...just making light of the fact it's been covered a gazillion times. Yes, I'm kidding.

I would add a compression AND leak down tester are some of the best tools you can buy...they take a lot of guess work out....

IMO...it's a double edged sword. For drag racing, the three top builders in my opinion, who have set records are RDZ, A&S and Rudy Kurtz (Port Magic) RDZ builds one stout stock cylinder drag bike, as does Dan @ A&S and Rudy @ Port Magic. The double edged sword is Rob @ RDZ and A&S can be hit or miss on communication. Right about now, there's the biggest sand drag event in the country getting ready to start in about 2 or 3 weeks. The big builders are gearing up for that...so, right now is a bad time to get just about anything done....

I use Crisco or Mazzola corn oil. I'm concerned about the environment...so I run my premix at 500:1 as well, as to not pollute. Pistons usually last me a solid 1/2 hour at a time, but hell...I'm saving the rain forests, right??

So, bone stock air box, filter lid and snorkel there, no holes in the air box?? What about riding temps...?

NO easy way to tell you....honestly. The Snap On gauge I use from a buddy is the same way. I generally add 5 to 10 PSI....to be safe. If the compression gauge isn't taking up all the room as the spark plug would be, there is more volume in the combustion chamber.... Just like when you get smaller cc domes for your head, or get your stock head shaved, you are decreasing the chamber and increasing compression. Same for a comp gauge not as deep as a spark plug but in reverse, you are adding volume. No set formula, unless you want to remove the head, screw in the compression gauge and cc the domes. then you could get an accurate reading....

Critical point. If the gauge is not as long as the spark plug reach, your chamber will have extra volume (cc's) and the reading will be off. Also...make sure you're using a quality gauge, not an auto parts store cheapy....and keep on kicking till it don't go up no more. I've had to kick 20 to 30 times on some bikes with higher compression.... 4 kicks definitely ain't gonna cut it. And beating another bike is no indication of how a bike is running. All rider being equal and close to weight, an average modded banshee won't come close to a healthy 250 in a drag race.

Just a case vent, I dump mine down the backside of the motor, between the swingarm and the cases.

I've never owned a cub motor (same one) longer than a year...LOL. Actually, I am on my second year on my 10. Depends on how often you ride, how hard you ride it. If all you do is drag race, pending a meltdown or blow up..yearly. Cubs have a habit of striping the intake side of the pistons because of the long, narrow bridge...

Don't worry about it... See the purple line going into the fitting on the left side, in front of the reeds.... That's a vacuum pulse line, same thing we all do, I just put mine on the other side. Normally you mount a pulse pump under the seat nose...

He's running a fuel pump, no need. Same as I run (ran)

There is a device you can get to measure the stroke, called the cheater...but it's a few hundred dollars...LOL. Better off taking the head off and getting a number off the piston if you can. Get some aftermarket J Arms. Any factory J arm out now is 20 years old...get aftermarket with replacable ball or heim joints.

Hey...I know you can't count (or at least count past 14) but can you at least spell my name right? Fuck it, it's the roosting room...who cares. :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

PM me your addy...I will try like hell to remember to bring them to work tomorrow and stuff 'em in an envelope...

Used to...sold mine to 375 banshee I believe.... I never had the time/resources to program and tune mine in. OEM works just fine for me....

What happend in this case more than likely is the motor was worn out and had low compression. At that point, pump gas and 19cc domes weren't an issue. Once the motor was healthy and had good compression...with 19cc domes it was detonating. Plug locks do more harm than good...If a bike is detonating, you WANT the plug to back out. It's telling you something. Backing a plug out can save your motor...instead of smoking a piston by cracking part of the dome off or putting a hole in it. boonman...good to see you still around. However, with respect to my own experience...I disagree. I got too greedy on my drag bike, leaned out the power jet just a little too much, it leaned out...detonated, and broke off a small part of the crown above the intake side. Pictures sent to 3 respectable builders all said the same thing without reservation. It was 100% my fault. I fattened the Powerjet back up, ran the bike with two used pistons the rest of the season and didn't change anything else. Easily 100 to 150 passes on used pistons....no issues. Detonation is caused by excess heat or hot spots in the combustion chamber. Without enough fuel/oil in the chamber, it can cause...well, detonation. What was particularly odd was my piston broke at the intake side. That had me puzzled...normally, as you said...it'll melt the piston on the exhaust side, which is the hottest part of the piston.

D&M built a bike they shipped out here a month or two ago to race on the ice, it was a bike for Donny to ride, they make some nice stuff for sure. They'll hook you up, whichever way you choose.

Are you sure that it's not coming from one of the middle 4 studs?? If it's the ones on top of the domes, I can mail you two as well...got a few laying around. Just cost me a stamp...but be sure!

Ok, let me add my .02 here. Just because the radiator isn't hot, doesn't mean inside the combustion chamber isn't...preferably top of the piston, etc. 32:1 is fine. No worries there. A bike could be jetted perfectly, but if it has excess compression or timing, it won't run that way @ WOT for long, running out of fuel or not. The motor will make too much heat.