dajogejr

He didn't try to...uh...run a train on you, did he? LOL.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: That yellow Kenworth is nice....

The numbers on the bearings mean nothing, there are a dozen places that make bearings for it. Take a picture of the crank.

Well...in this case, I had a failure happen to me and I still have a bad taste about it. It was a couple years ago when I had my 4 mil cub on gas. About 180 to 185 PSI on race gas. I literally snapped two studs, one at a time. They were nice, metric studs with an allen head inside the top (like a set screw would) and they were hardened. I won't trust them. I've been trying to get a buddy to get me some ARP bolts...but he's been lagging....LOL.

I'd rather err on the side of caution and tell you to get them from Pro-Design directly...

On the left side carb (Ignition side) there is a hole/boss inbetween the carb cap hold down screw and the fuel inlet valve. You grind it (flat) and drill/tap it. On the right side carb, same thing, opposite side.

Man...would I love to, both T&T and go to Gilbert. Just not in the funds. Can you imagine a week in a motor home and the races with that group? Sheesh, the stories I'm gonna hear....if they all make it back without killing each other!!! Even though the trip is being split up between a dozen guys or so...just too much for me right now. Trying to get a new house, all the rest will have to wait!!

Good luck homie!!! Try the stealership if no one has any. PM Minkia38 (Ray) or NYUK to see if they do, they are the sanford and son of banshee junkyards. Somebody that has a prodesign head has to have some laying around. Whatever you do, DO NOT go to the hardware store and get hardened/heat treated ones. I snapped two like twigs.

Unless you or I have a bike to ride that I don't know about...and plan on heading to Gilbert....No. LOL... I'm in pieces, will be for a little while, and Crystal did specifically ask that only those attending Gilbert run, which...ain't me. I think Frank, Brady and the Shelby boyz will be runnin...I don't think Evan has anything together yet....

Is the intakes sealed up properly, and what jetting are you using? Pulling the choke to keep it running usually means it's WAY Lean.

Yep, sure AM. There's a post about it from Crystal on Planet Sand. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...5530#Post845530

Sure thing, Cupcake.... LOL

Dekker... WMSD is opening their track up ONLY for those going to the Planet Sand Race in Gilbert...to try and help 'em test and tune new setups. If you get bored...swing by and watch some big bikes hit the strip...

I wish you boys all the best. I for one am still amazed how long winter has stuck around this year...

You called yourself cookie...that's cute...

Thinking ahead usually puts you ahead (I think I might coin that phrase...LOL) A stroker crank and good porting to match will make a BIG difference, one you'll be happy with.

It'll start and run fine. He only needs to up the main because of the pipes and no lid. Stock pilot will be fine, stock needles will be fine. If it doesn't start it's because the slides are in backwards, the choke tube is missing, or the TORS is causing an issue...or something else. Stock carb pilot circuit is actually pretty good...with only pipes and no lid, the stock pilot will flow enough fuel.

Welded inside and out is something they do. Standard 4 mil hot rods crank come with a weld, but they're shitty ones...and most builders will tell you they need to be rewelded. TZ bearings are the best. Here's the deal...and I'm letting the secret out of the bag. OEM Yamaha TZ bearings are no longer made, and they are becoming harder and harder to find. What a lot of people are doing are buyin NTN brand bearings that are The same design and style of the OEM yamaha bearings, cutting a groove in the outer race, and calling them TZ bearings. Even crankworks carries and sells NTN brand bearings but calls them TZ. So, IMO...is it worth it? yes...I've yet to see a TZ bearing fail. however, the maxload bearing that Jeff @ FAST carries is also a very, very nice bearing for quite a bit less money... You're paying for a quality part, and insurance...so...how much is that worth to you is the question.

Sorry if this is a member here, but if this is a like brand new basket with those grooves on it...I'd hate to see their "slightly used" basket... Thought this was kinda funny. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/banshee-dra...sspagenameZWDVW

I had one, took it off. AND...I rode bikes for years...CR Dirt Bikes. I just don't like a twist on a quad, even though I ONLY have a drag bike. Just my opinion...

Word. You MIGHT get 2-5 HP more, a tad more torque, but that with some EXTENSIVE porting...etc. Out of the box and with cleaned up only porting, the 68mm has better numbers. 4 mil 68 bore cub is the best bang for the money out there, bar none. Weight reduction and rider skill, along with proper setup can over come that small a difference.

Stock pilots, 1.0 to 1.5 on the air screw, needle middle clip, start with 280 mains.

You're not boring that cub out...unless you bought yours sleeved.

Keep in mind...now. Are you prepared to upgrade the clutch and tranny as well?

You'll have to offset the power with gearing and less paddle. I can tell you I had a 6 over on my 4 mil cub, gas, cleaned up only...with 10 paddles and it could be a handful... You only need yours cleaned up to fix/smooth the casting flaws...that's it.

It won't suck water in....