dajogejr

Thank you to Travis for posting this and taking the video..!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bzESEiic3y4

Your problem is easier. Past 2.5 to 3.0 turns out...you're past the adjustment range. Put the next size smaller pilot in. Start at 1.5 turns out. If it has 25 pilots in there, you have another problem. electrical or otherwise. You have the carbs bowls on the right carbs, slides in the right carbs and choke tube connecting them? You should also clean the bejesus out of your pilot circuit. I'm talking a speaker wire in there to get any dirt, etc. Carb/brake cleaner and compressed air. Not to be a jerk, but probably a good idea to start your own thread after this. I understand you are having similar problems. However, it will be easy for anyone trying to help either of you get confused to who is getting what advice, etc. Again, not trying to sound like a jerk...just trying to help you both out and not get anyone confused, namely....myself. LOL.

Says 6,500 in the title... Nice, clean ride.

Butch... Alky or gas? You play with the air gap at all. Different pilots or air screw settings? Gap on the plugs? It runs clean on top...but not elsewhere. Usually....if it's ignition, it'll run like crap on top...there's more strain at higher RPMs. Warm it up...remove the plugs and go through the gears at 1/2 throttle...look at the plugs. Needle may be way too rich, regardless of clip positions.

If it's a 96...it has 4 wire square plugs. I am 100% certain on that. I have a 96 uh....based, Ignition.

87 to 94 are one style, 95 and 96 are another....and the current is 97 to current year. I have a bastard 96 ignition...LOL. Take NYUK up on the CDI...you won't find one cheaper.

+ 600 or so for lockup clutch and dunable override.

Yep...save your money. You could buy the bare essentials, a cylinder and pistons for that much. Need upgraded clutch, tranny, swinger, shock...etc. get your cylinders ported... Then you'll want good pipes and bigger carbs.

Before you get into all that....keep in mind. A modern bike has a HP to weight that is hard to beat...but obviously it can be done. It's more than just motor....once you make some good power, you have to have the suspension, chassis, gearing and tire setup to get that power to the ground. Making a 80 to 100 HP motor is relatively easy, harnessing it to the ground is whole other challenge. First question...what is your budget.

Ahhh... I'm thinking it's not...LOL. If your motor spun about 11K I'd be surprised...to be honest.

Bone stock, 0 to 9500 RPM or so. Pipes, porting, compression, timing, intakes, carbs...etc., ally play a part on how far it'll rev. 12.5 K Dan? Sheesh...stretching the rods out of that bad boy...

Correct. Frank Pizzo riding it.... Been a lot of talk, beam jumping, etc. A few of the guys came up with the timing lights, etc., were about 2 tenths off... The fact that Ohton said any times ran during the week were not legit unless they backed them up Saturday for records, etc. The races were legit...times were not. Guys from MI had a 20+ hour drive ahead of them, none of the guys in that crew rode Saturday to the best of my knowledge.

Well...looks like the times weren't legit, a few tenths off. Still, I'm very proud... Legit time or not....2nd place is second place. In a big class, with a lot of drag framed bikes, lighter riders and a lot more tuning....that's saying something. Kudos to Frank... (My bike is on the left...lol) Any idea how bad I would love to have this plaque myself? I wouldn't dream of asking Frank for it, it's his and his alone...but...it would be cool sitting in the garage... Maybe we can share custody...LOL.

34PJs can be made to run well on smaller motors. I wouldn't put them on a cub..but stock stroke/bore motors, I would. Dan Hull swears by them....(A&S)

I've heard of ceramic for cranks, etc. Not for the axle, though... If it were me, and he's running a drag axle...swap out that junk stock style and replace it with a roundhouse...

Get another caliper used, when the pads come off, are they worn even or at an angle? Something could be bent back there making the pads rub more than they should...

carbs need to be cleaned good and sync'd.... Or you have an air leak.

Measure the OD of the Oring, if they cut a groove 1/4 or 1/2 that deep, I bet it would seal just fine.

Greg announced it over on Planet Sand. I think he said sometime in May.

Ted is a great, great guy.... And now that it's past April 15th, I bet he's dying to get out to the strip. Thanks for the info... FYI..keep your eye out for Whitaker's new tranny. He's coming out with a 1-6 dunable... If that tranny comes out with no bugs or issues, it will be the hottest seller out...Hell, I'll get one just in case I ever get to ride asphalt.!! Good lookin run...!!!

How much compression, how much timing, how much octane?

On gas...35s for sure. Alky...34PJs or 39PWKs. Don't think you're looking for alky yet... 34PJ carbs are CHEAP...and would do a world of good to your mil. An aggressive dune port with Shearer pipes want to breathe...you're chocking it with stock carbs.

Any machinist should be able to cut you an Oring groove for pretty cheap.

Stock carbs on a 4 mil dune port with Shearer pipes? You're killing your top end right there.

Detonation or a piece of the piston could hit the plug, closing the gap.