dajogejr

If you got anything more than a cleanup port for 170 on both...I'd be amazed. Then you're going to wonder why there's not much improvement for the 170 you spent. The average port job worth it's salt is going to be 350 to 600 dollars. If the budget is that tight, you're not ready yet for porting...

cubshee has a SMOKING price on some 40 mil lectrons over on PS....

You know I'm runnin the game Rich...LOL. Sent the pics. I don't remember who took 'em...sorry!!!

I haven't used the dyna, so I really couldn't tell you. They put out quality stuff, I don't see any reason why not to try it. However, since you're staying on gas...not sure if it's a great idea. I've had my Nology for three years now, no issues. my friend JT has had his now, longer than me, no issues. You're bound to get a bad one sooner or later....I have zero complaints about mine! Ignition is critical on any build, when I built my 4 mil cub in 06 I bought a new Ricky Stator Stator (biggest mistake ever) a new Dyna programmable ignition AND a Nology coil w/ hotwires. Out of those three...the Nology is still the only one I have left. I sold the Dyna (no time to program, etc.) and the RS Stator went out on me TWICE.... The nology has never let me down.

A few things....unless you're running 75 to 80 HP or more (as said) you don't need one. Get stiffer springs and an EZ pull lever. 2, don't put a lockup on a bike without an override tranny... Trying to shift a lockup at peak RPMs and pull your clutch in...forget it. Too much force. With an override, you click gears with out pulling the clutch in. I used and abused Jeff's clutch for 3 years plus...it is stout, period. Call Jeff @ FAST...his clutch is very, very worth it....

Two things, it's gonna slip...and more than likely it's going to ruin the clutch. Use a torque wrench...7.5 ft lbs is all you need. That's not much. When I've snapped them in the past..take it apart, and the threads came out pretty easily (because there's usually tranny oil still there). Use a small drill, drill the middle of the bolt and use a phillips or torx screw driver to back it out. I'd bet it comes out pretty easily... But yeah, do NOT run that bike with only three springs.

Title of the post is New V-Force 3's.

LOL... Yes, and that's why brand new, they're 30 or 40 bucks cheaper...

Well if they're new....

Well his name IS turbobanshee SNop....c'mon now.... :biggrin:

The ONLY exception to that would be on a turbo bike. Dan Hull @ A&S (whose name speaks for itself as well) would disagree with that statement on a turbo bike... Other than that...I'd agree. Now...the pipe is modified as well...but it is a dynoport pipe...

Just to give those of you a little background on Quad Killer, he is a small business owner in New Baltimore Michigan, and is neck deep in the sand and drag race world. There simply can not be enough hours in the day to do all he does for our sport. Between promoting events, working with tracks and the crew...having a mobile store (his trailer has just about anything you could need for race day, fuels, oils, plugs, etc...) to roping off an area for racers and weather reports. All this and asks for nothing in return, just have a good time and tell others how much fun you had.... Any even Rich is part of, I will always do my best to be a part of too... If any of you would have seen how much the guys at Ionia busted their ass to try and get the track going, you'd realize they pullout all the stops. This is a top notch facility with guys running it for us....because of us, not just to make money and get by on status quo. You simply can't beat mother nature sometimes.... And that being said...we all still had a blast. I promise you won't find a more fun, open and honest group of guys than those that will be at this race... Come out and have a ball!!

Damn I wish you were close homie.... Very nice work!!

Shearers are a top end drag pipe, and I've yet to see a pipe rev higher...to be honest. And I run shearer. Granted I have an alky/cub setup, my bike makes power from about 7000 to 11500 RPM.

Shearers zonked out around 9500? You're not getting the motor enough gas, or the porting isn't up to snuff.

I agree...just get some heim joints and make your own.

Welcome to the HQ...now look at Loco's Sig...

Funny thing is....that's what Jeff @ FAST told me on the phone. I got it home...laughing to myself, this old country boy is pulling my leg. ZAP...uh, ok...no he wasn't. Now where was my coloring book and crayons again....

An 80 shot sure would be fun....ONCE....LOL.

Yep...missing the trash can in the corner of the garage, walking over...having to bend over to pick them up to throw them out.

Ford Vs. Chevy... I like my Nology setup, looks nicer, better quality wires and a nice ground strap on each. I can't verify this with numbers, but I can tell you grab a spark plug with your hand and kick the bike on a stock coil, then a Nology coil. It's the difference between a kick to the shin and a kick to the nuts.....

This needs to be moved to repair... They are garbage... They are supposed to kill the ignition if the throttles stick wide open. More often than not, they screw up your ignition and cause the bike to run poorly. My advice is get the kit, install the idle screws and remove them all together. Search TORS Removal...

I'm bringing an extra chassis for the 4 mil...does it have to be running when I'm done?? LOL..

SPLIT THE CASES ALREADY....with all the time you've spent looking for a magical answer, they could've been split, cleaned out and the damage tallied.... The only way a piston, rod, bearing, etc, could have pieces in the gear box is if you broke something and it put a hole between the crank case and the tranny....you'd have MUCH Bigger problems then.

X 2. It is absolutely critical though....make sure your kill switches are turned off, and clean up the threads on the flywheel before you reverse thread the puller on. You want more than just a few threads of the puller into the flywheel. Brief hit with the impact should pop it loose...