dajogejr

I agree...drag axles sure are nice, but to be 100% honest, I'd do that after the rest. You gain adjust ability, lose weight...but....you've got bigger fish to fry at this point....

Correct...but whenever you bottom out a fuel or air screw, seat them lightly so you don't damage the sealing tip.

Nice post Cam... Your prices are definately within' 10 to 20% of what you should expect to pay.... A 4 mil cub is a GREAT start to the drag racing scene...and plenty run them for quite a while as well.

That bike is beautiful...very, very nice... Good luck on the sale!!! Tough to sell anything now a days, let alone a show quality stunner like that...

The X Wing I had came with Like Skywalker and R2D2 built in...what X Wings are you talking about???

If you are going to build a DRAG ONLY shee.... 4 mil cub 4 mil crank NOSS head with domes cut for methanol and blaster pistons, 20cc 10 over to 12 over swingarm Override trans Lockup clutch and cover FAST Clutch 39mm carbs or bigger Out of frame Shearer or CPI pipes (depends on what your builder suggests) Longer Chain Different gearing (depending on how long of distances you want to run) Marvin Shaw rear shock Once you're done with that....buy all the lightened hardware you can, axle, arms, etc. Also...Methanol requirements for 300 foot vs. 1/8 mile is going to be different, could be the difference between running billet bowls, and billet bowls, a fuel pump, etc. So...how far are you going to run? If this is going to be more of a duner than a drag bike, keep it on gas, but stay with 39mm or bigger carbs....but you said drag, drag racers use methanol.... It's cheap 5-10% more power. Actually, you're in luck. blewbyu (Jeff) is selling his 4 mil stock cylinder setup. It would cost you half as much to buy this setup, and with his 180lb ass on it, it kept up with our big 4 to 10 mil cubs all day long at the drag strip, it would be a FRACTION of the price....and you could spend money on light go fast parts, powder coat and chrome/billet accessories. I will let him give you a run down on what he has, but he went with a bigger 10 mil cub motor, and he's already torn down his old motor and is ready to sell it.

It is the last sticky thread... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=85931

My buddy has a 4 mil, 10 mil and 16 mil cheetah, the first two have power valves...and you could save a TON of money buying new...are you interested?

Joel... At the top of this forum is a cc chart... Stock stroke on a banshee is 54mm. So a 4 mil stroker (regardless of the long rod or not) is 58mm. Pick what your bore size is....that will give you the cc of the motor.

Yep....stock banshee throttle cable WITHOUT TORS.... Critical you tell them without TORS or it will not be the right one... If your bike has the TORS removed right now (big honkin' things on top of the carbs) you already have the right cable.

Birth Control... His parents, should've used it. Swallow it... Next time...do mankind a favor...

Word...don't touch a thing. Play with gearing, timing and air pressure....but you got a good running motor there!

Learn how to launch of out second gear. I wouldn't put a 13 tooth on unless you rode a short MX track or Tight, tight 1, 2 and 3rd gear woods/trails. Otherwise, you will be blowing through gears and shifting way too much. Are your carbs sync'd? Fresh oil and gas, etc.... Bike should be faster all over with those mods, unless someone milled the head incorrectly....

Seeing as how cubs are prone to deto and you don't know your compression ratio....run the 111.

I was thinking the same thing.... coned pipes are hit and miss....unless they were specifically made and tuned to your motor...

There is no cross reference....but I think the jetting bansheman recommended will get you close. I'd actually go a little bigger (richer) to start out and be safe. Maybe 50 pilots and 155 mains. Mikuni mains go by 10. their banshee carb pilots go by 2.5 till you get to 35, then they go by 5 (example, 30, 32.5, 35, 40, 45, etc.) Keihin mains and pilots go by 0, 2, 5, 8, 0. So.... 40, 42, 45, 48, 50....etc. No such thing as a 320 mikuni main = a 160 keihin main.... Two different carbs all together with different numbering schemes...

OK...guess that answers the question. I should've read your first post a little closer, but you also need to list your location in your profile to be fair.... My price with shipping to you will be actual shipping outside of the US...

Please tell me you live in the continental US....since your location is NOT in your member information... That price from TDR seemed a bit hight, but...if you're international...that would be why....

Seat time and setup...nothing more important....

Nope...no carbs, sorry.. I will PM you the details.

Don't know....to save yourself 50 bucks, I sure would get on the phone and try.

Amen.... Four strokes, quick as they are, are no match for a healthy ported banshee...let alone a stroked one. Congrats!!!

Tell you what. I'll sell you brand new Boss intakes for 100 shipped. And they'll ship this week. Performance-wise...I don't think you'll see a difference. I have a Chariot Head, and I'm very, very happy with it. I have Boss intakes (before Chariot was making them) and I'm also a dealer for boss..... So...PM me if you're interested. The Chariot (according to his ebay sale) will not ship till Nov. 1st. His price is 95.00 with shipping. I will do my best to match that... Just tell me what size carb you need them for.

Depending on how aggressive his dune port is...35PWKs on a dune bike will work perfect.

PWKs ALL the way, unless you find a set of PJs for under 100 bucks and money is VERY very tight.... The PJs are just an old school carb, and the adjustments aren't as easy to deal with, and they are tougher to jet cleaner in my opinion. Still a great carb back in it's day....but the PWKs are a better choice IMO.