dajogejr

That being said. I would get rid of whatever Ricky Stator ignition components you can. They have let me down big time....would hate to see them do that to you. OEM is very nice stuff...

I would rather sit there and jet a bike all day then figure out electrical and ignition issues. They are the worst. Glad you got it figured out. Each time I do a build, I find a new thing not to overlook...LOL.

Coincidentally...that's what NYUK puts on all the fliers for his parties at his house. When you arrive, you refer to him as number 1471...or so I've been told.

He sent me an email and said the rear sprocket was stock, I need to chill, etc. Sorry...if I had a dollar for every 70 MPH banshee that said they were doing 100MPH.... He said I have proof, I've yet to see it. I WANT PROOF!!! LOL.

Ok guys. I've been SERIOUSLY bored at work today....so...I decided to call him out. Here's the email back and forth. Start from the bottom up... Yeah I know it's the same weight and mass...I just had to see what he said. He sure fell right into it... Please tell me how a stroker crank is lighter. I happen to have a 10 mil stroked, after market cub banshee that has 120HP on methanol, and will in fact do 100 plus miles an hour, if geared correctly. A 76 tooth rear sprocket would be larger than a large pizza. I hope you

I agree....great price.

The air tools I have used have a pedal to assist in speed control. You can weld material back on...but obviously, it's a lot easier when you don't have to. Several aftermarket cylinders with larger bores on stock cases require this "build up" or welding...

Without any spark...how can you say that for sure? Cross the wires..

Get a tether type kill switch for it. Bypass completely the handlebar on/off switch. Cut the wires. DOUBLE CHECK the tors wires, cut them and tape them apart from each other if you have to. ohm the stator. If your buds have banshees that run, borrow ignition components... If the wiring is good...the most common problem is the Stator, then the spark plug end caps. Stock coils are actually pretty good, but the factory caps blow donkey.

.015 to .020 is perfect. Please turn off the caps lock...it's like you're shouting. Run an extra ground from the coil mount the the engine ....just for giggles. Just because you have brand new Ricky Stator ignition parts, doesn't mean they work.

based on that, Brandon....do you think a head gasket will hurt a motor because hard parts would fail before the head gasket?

You can unplug the voltage regulator. The only thing that is used for is to soak up volts so you don't smoke the light bulbs by over juicing them. Flywheels go bad. Magnets go bad...and they can break apart inside the flywheel. It'll sound like a maraca when you shake it. What did you adjust the pickup gap to on the flywheel?

2+2 =5. There...take that. LOL... J/K. What I've done in the past is put a base gasket on the cases, use a sharpie or marker to mark where the gasket matches up...and grind that away.... Just be careful on the ignition/flywheel side, that's thin over there as is.

Flywheel. And Ricky Stator stuff is garbage...see if you can return it for a refund and get used OEM equipment. Get a clymers, trace down the wiring. get rid of everything you don't need. Did you set the pickup gap properly between the flywheel nubs and the pickup coil?

I still disagree... I've seen motors with 220lbs plus of cranking compression, they just needed the right profile for their dome so they wouldn't smoke Orings. Check out the new design on the Chariot head. They are thicker to prevent this as well....

I had a lockup on it the 2nd and 3rd seasons. The first season...all motor, no lockup, no override. Only HD springs. The 4 pokes are hard on clutches...they need more from the factory. They make so much more torque over a longer spread of RPM...they need to hold together.

Well...after a year of abuse in my 4 mil cub pushing 90ish HP on Jeff's FAST clutch and 6HD springs, that clutch managed to make it two plus full seasons of drag racing on the same inner and outer with light springs and a lockup...so...maybe it was the clutch, maybe it was the fluid, not sure....but I abused the hell out of my clutch in the dunes, etc., and I'm a big guy...

That 100% killed that idea. For 334 bucks I can buy 5 or 6 sets of OEM and NEVER have to buy another one. I've never had one fail...and I replaced my inner and outer after 2.5 years of abuse because I finally blued the steels on Jeff's clutch and figured it was time. If it were less than half that price, it would be thinkable...but not for that much...

Ok...I guess part two of that question is how much do they cost, comparatively...?

Jbook, two things... Is that for a Raptor 660 or 700? I run Raptor OEM 660 fibers/steels in mine now. I wonder if you could use that inner/outer on a banshee.

So have I....when I had the wrong domes and/or too lean on the fuel.

Man...that's custom. That's pretty funny, good find.

I'd like to see his proof of Orings failing more often than head gaskets....

You welded the push rod to the ball... You may be able to get it out without splitting the case. Look into a pancake bearing so that never happens again.

She can love me long time with those nose breakers.....