dajogejr

Nope....it's how I run mine. I'm not talking a lot...maybe 1/8 inch at the arrows. I've never used an 8 disk setup in my bike...but I have used an extra steel plate in the middle. I've always lined it up on my 10 mil this way....

Normally deto will show on the crown first. How does the crown of the piston look? Did it back out any spark plugs?

Wes... Line it up a little outside the arrow on the case. In other words...towards the footpeg on the stator side. Probably a good idea to make sure the cable isn't stretched as well...but I line mine up a little outside the arrows. With a lockup and pancake...it might not be disengaging fully...and giving it the throttle makes it worse. I normally stage at half throttle...once it's ready to go green, pin it and feather the clutch out. Don't dump it....

It's more than likely 6 to 12 PSI higher if the tester thread isn't as long as the spark plug itself....

that's where a degree wheel comes into play. To see where the timing is at. Once that's set...you figure out if you need to stuff more gasket under, or get domes cut.

Even with the new and much better automatic trans and traction control available on these you think the 6 speed stick is better for performance? Interesting... I'm sure a professional driver can make the best use out of the 6 speed...

Cut, solder, and use heat shrink tubing then electrical tape at the ends if need be...then dielectric grease to seal them.

Check the piston to wall clearance, and leave the window alone. I too have seen the skirts crack from opening the window. I understand it's not opened at the location on the piston that is breaking, but by weakening the skirt as a whole....it could very well be the problem.

Someone should be able to measure a stock set of cylinders for you...I can't. I know this is a stretch...but do you remember if the old bask gasket was real, real think (like 3-4 times the thickness of a stocker)..?? If the rods are 115, the crank is a stock stroke...there are only a few things it can be. Bad pistons (very, highly unlikely...), wrong rods (also highly unlikely) or a cut/modified cylinder you weren't aware of before it was sent out. Something doesn't add up....

On your old setup, was there a spacer plate? Did you measure your old base gasket (a squashed piece of it), could you get numbers off your old one? Are you 100% certain you have stock stroke long rod crank in there?

True that... I'd like to know the thickness of the new and compressed base gaskets he's using for starters... Same could be said for a .020 base...if it's hitting with that, .020 squish ain't gonna cut it either. Thanks for the backup homie...

It looks like it has a positive deck height by that picture. Stock base gaskets are .012...I think, but I'm not positive. Try using two base gaskets...or, get a thicker set. Gonna have to measure what you have first. Don't worry about running double base gaskets, I've done it no problem. I think someone decked those cylinders..

No...after I posted that...I forgot it was all assembled... If I could see the side of the web, I can normally tell by a good pic if it's a stock stroke or 4 mil crank. That...of course would mean splitting the cases. Which..I think at this point, you're gonna have to do any who. You have the correct pistons for a long rod crank. From trying a 2mm piece of solder and not having it squish/smash at all with a 2mm spacer plate...that tells me it's not a stroker crank. But you should be able to run a bone stock head (not shaved, decked, milled) with NO spacer and 795 pistons. Are these cylinders ported? Is there any way someone decked the top or bottom of the cylinders? And what thickness of base gasket are you using? I would put the cylinders on, torque down and check the deck height. (At the edge of the cylinder, how far the piston is down in the cylinder at TDC.)

Get me a picture of the side of the crank..please.

Something is not right. Read the numbers off the tops of the pistons. Do they start with 513, 573 or 795? If they won't touch 2mm thick solder, but you take a 2mm spacer plate out and they hit the head...something isn't right.

Take the whole thing apart....you'll have to look everything over. If you had more than 2mil of squish, removed the plate...and now they're hitting the head, something is wrong. What kind of head is it? Measure the thickness of the spacer plate, make sure it's a 2mil plate.

I'm thinking I'd find a different shop. The 2 mil spacer plate is for a 4 mil stroker crank, NOT a long rod setup. Remove the spacer plate...and squish it back out. Good for you to try and measure squish. :beer:

Wes....try 6 stock springs. Is it a slingshot or finger style lockup? Any extra weight on it? If you're revving it pretty high with a lockup...it's trying to counteract you pulling the clutch. If it's half throttle or less...I say it's in the arrow adjustment. If you're near pinning the throttle...try to let off a little... I usually line my arrows up a little outside as well...

I'll bring the pop corn and beer...and I will offer my grooming services and air brushing talents as well... ROFL...

Please... Sure they beat the Pats early in the season... Do you realize that the 5 losses the Pats have are from playoff teams. Meanwhile, Miami barely squeaked by teams like Kansas City??? Pats are 11-5 and sitting home for playoffs. They went 11-5 with a backup quarterback. Granted...the fin's went 1-15 last year, and that is very impressive....but they'll probably won't make it past the first round...

Yep...they are put on for the casting....that's it.

Bone stock motor with stock carbs and Shearer pipes. You don't have the motor for those pipes, let alone in sand. The fact you're 165 doesn't hurt...but 6th gear on a banshee is very tall. And with a bone stock motor, regardless of 7 paddles...it's going to be hard to turn 6th gear in sand. I had a strong running stock motor with timing and compression, stock carbs and T5 pipes and it still had a hard time pulling 6th in sand... You can shorten the gearing to tighten things up...but my advice is go bigger on front or smaller on rear, launch in second and stretch 5th gear out further....knowing you're not gonna pull 6th. Or...just get it ported. LOL.

I'd bet you don't even feel a difference or even notice it in a time slip if you race on a track. You might see a HP or two on a dyno...if that.

Yep...your buddies bike has it on there for looks AND the ability to remove and replace the clutch without having to take the whole side cover off.

Please take the caps lock off, it's the equivalent of shouting... We need more info to help you. Is it ported? Are the threads for the compression gauge as long as spark plug threads? Is it a cheapo compression tester or a good quality one (this makes a HUGE difference, trust me...) Did you check it warm or cold? Did you hold the throttle wide open? Did you keep kicking until the needle didn't move any more (often this takes 20 to 30 kicks)