dajogejr

Miller has talent(s) as well, two of them...very nice....

Greg bought his carbs off a buddy of mine. I talked to Kim @ K&T for the suggested jetting. Greg, last I checked...sent them to K&T for Kim to do them. I'm not saying you're wrong, but from all the jetting specs, etc., that I've seen...they don't run as big of dumps or mains in the Mikunis as they do the Keihins.

This coming from a guy who's idol bleached his skin and had more silicone in his face than in her feed bags.... :kiss: :biggrin:

Somebody needs to tell Wiseco and Vitos there will no longer be forged cranks, as well as OEM Yamaha.... I can't see how the cost of pouring metal to a mold (very little waste) compared to maching a part out of a block (Lots of waste) can even compare in cost. OEM TZ bearings, for example...are very hard to find. They have shot up in price...so everyone uses NTN and has the outer race machined for the crank clip. Forged cranks have not gone up in price...I can't see that being true that no one is going to make or carry them any more.... Anyone can go can buy blanks or forged cranks anytime they choose...

I have a nice shiny polished bottle I'd be happy to send your way for cost of shipping in your quest... :biggrin:

Precisely Tyler.... I was wondering how many actually knew that...

Nothing wrong with the Vito's crank at all. I will agree, just like Wiseco, their welds are SHITTY from the factory. However, my buddy builds cranks with Vito's components. he gets blank webs, gets them punched and welds them inside and out and trues them. We've had 7 and 10 mil cranks running in stock to cub to cheetah cylinders out here with out any crank related issues. When it comes time to building these motors, a good weld and true is 100% critical. If you think you're not going to have any issues simply because you're going to a billet crank...you're wrong. You're only going to have more expensive issues when one comes up. And it's going to cost you a LOT more money...period. You can save 30 to 45% by getting a properly setup forged crank vs. billet...it'll be just fine. Mark... I understand you're buds with Louie and all that. But if you want to test out a properly welded and trued Vito's crank...just let me know. I happen to have a Crankworks crank in my 10 mil. I got it used off ebay for about 200 bucks. It needed a bearing. I put a TZ on the PTO side. Since then....the crank has hundreds and hundreds of passes on it. For the first time in two years I split my motor. Everything on it looks perfect...from the welds to the bearings to the rods. Forged cranks are cheaper but they work just fine....when setup right. banshee4201, if you want a forged crank that will hold up just fine and at a good price, just let me know.

That's a James Lucky style chain tensioner, and the same kind I've used for the past two years on my bike. No issues at all, and a lot cheaper than the RDZ roller/tensioner.

For a 10K budget, you can build a banshee no R will touch on that same budget. The R's are a great track and dune bike. For all out drag racing, unless you're building a purpose built bike for a particular class or cc size limits, I'd rather build a banshee. There are more out there drag racing, parts are more plentiful, and CHEAPER...

I have one in the top shelf of my tool box, where it's been for a few years now... It's polished and pretty...I have an open spot on the wall for it, a roost boost and AMP link, should I ever find them at a garage sale cheap. Next to a broken piston, which...in my opinion, would offer more good than any of those listed above. I understand it works on your snowmobile, but these are different animals.

After only a few passes...you probably won't see the burn on the base or strap, especially if you know it's rich. Close the gap to .018...see if that helps. Put the plate on 2 and use curve three, or...get rid of the dyna, put a stock known working CDI on and try the plate at 7. I think 7 on the plate plus the Dyna might be little much.... Now...you know how I feel about throwing timing and compression at cubs, as well as fuel. But as far as timing goes...I'd start with something a little more tame...then work your way up. Have to remember, I run 300ft. You can get away with more timing than duning....

What compression? How much timing are you at now? Usually, cutting out on the top end is lean... If you put new plugs in it....are you going for a WOT run an looking for the black smoke ring at the base of the porcelin? I know it takes time to get heat and color the plugs, but after a WOT run or two you should have the smoke ring. What are your plugs gapped at? Have you checked your flywheel to pickup gap? If you're 100% certain you're pig fat...but it's breaking up on top...time to go over all the electrical with a fine tooth comb. No amount of jetting or tuning will help until the electrical is sorted. Could be a bad ground, bare wire, bad kill switch. Go over all of it....

Go for a ride with the boost bottle. Remove it and plug/seal both holes, go for the same ride. If you notice any difference whatsoever....I want whatever pills or booze you're taking. AK...I understand what it's supposed to do. The theory, etc. This is one of those cases where theory looks great on paper or in discussion, but in real world..it doesn't amount to a hill of beans. And I'm NOT just talking about drag bikes. I'm talking trail bikes, duners, etc.

Check the shifter adjustment. They Clymer manual will tell you how to adjust the eccentric properly. Next...look at the basket, inner and outer hubs for the clutch, make sure they're good. Inner and outer hubs are cheap, I use OEM....and replace them every year or so. A good billet basket is a good investment as well. Normally, though, a worn clutch will cause it to slip, creep, etc. Rarely does it cause it to not come out of gear.

Plug both holes with the proper sized bolt and a hoseclamp. Make sure the bolt is not extruding into the intake path...

Do they make a booster seat for the driver's seat? If not....you could always take a few phone books away from your girlfriend and sit on those... :biggrin:

Rico.. The cylinders would fill up before the pipes when it's not running. As long as the needle and seat are sealing properly...it should not leak fuel into the motor.

Time-wise, I've been here a lot less than any of the mods or admins.. I just post a lot, try to help and ask questions too. But don't mistake post count for knowlege or understanding.... I mean loco and NYUK both have a lot of posts, but they're full of shit... LOL... :yelrotflmao: Seriously, hang around as you have, search around...some people just don't post. They read and learn. A lot of us ask, answer and use forums such as these for the social networking, BSing with friends aspect of it. I've made a lot of friends on the forums that I've met in person, I've got a lot more that I've yet to meet, but have talked to on the phone...and so on and so forth. Don't worry about a post count...get something out of the site...and give back as best you can.

May not happen. If the cylinders are that far below the deck with a spacer...you could put a flat piece across the deck and not get the squish you're looking for...and the port timings could be out of whack as well...

In warm weather, meth bikes should start easy... I've never had to pull chokes on PWKs or Lectrons... I'm sure Brad told you to fatten up the pilot or air screw setting... Are you using the same premix oil in your purge gas as what you burn with methanol? Do you clean out the carbs regularly?

That's a pretty open ended question. It could need new rings and hone on the cylinder, it could need a fresh bore job and new pistons. You could get the top end off and realize it's more than that.... It's opening a can of worms. I'm not trying to scare you....but that's just how it goes sometimes, like quicksand.... I don't trust cheapo auto store compression testers. I've seen them vary and be false big time. Craftsman make a nice tester for about 60 bucks US, not sure where you're from.... Of course Snap On, MAC and Matco make nice ones too...but you'll spend 2 to 3 times as much. If you put motors together all the time, it's worth having... Doesn't sound like that's the case for you though.... http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947089000P

I thought he was a cascade nuthugger... Can someone please clarify for all of HQ the distinct differences between nut hugging and nut swinging... I don't want to be misspeaking here ya know... :whistling: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: I've been running them on my bike for a few years. I have the large BOSS intakes that are two pieces, no internal crossover, no holes for a stock crossover...they seem to work just fine for me. But to be honest, I did so many other things at the time, I can't tell you good or bad, they aren't hurting me..I'm pretty sure of that.

Turn the fuel valve OFF. Remove BOTH spark plugs. Make sure the kill switch and Key are both off. Thread the tester in (Make sure the tester threads are as long as the spark plug threads, or you'll get a lower reading. Hold the throttle wide open, and keep kicking till it doesn't move up any more. The first 5 kicks will net you a lot, it could take 10 to 15 kicks after that to get the last 5 to 10 PSI....just keep kicking.

Nope...more like this...with red hair: And I agree...more nutswinging in gregbj and red's sig....too.

Is that a stock frame conversion or totally new frame? Looks good. Don't know if I like purple frame and motor with a flame accented plastic, but that's just me. Those plastics do look NICE!!!!