NitroTate

Way too big man. I have a similar setup with pretty agressive porting, VF2's, T5's, cool head with 17cc domes (155psi), +4 timing, K&N pods, 100 octane gas 32:1, stock carbs. And I was running perfectly with 270's.

Another bump just because I have a huge stack of discs ready if anyone needs one.

Got it thanks man! 1 left for today! Anyone?

Got it man thanks, I'm getting it in the mail today. I have 2 more left with me at work today that I can get in the mail immediately. Any other takers? I still have plenty more at home either way though.

Sure, I'll PM it to you so I don't get spammed from putting it on here in text format...LOL

Haven't bumped this in quite a while and I just ran another big batch of discs if anyone else is interested just let me know I can get them out right away. Thanks everyone!

I can tell you that if you had a set of spring compressors that were small enough and/or designed for these springs, that you could get them on without damaging the PC. I've gotten very close to no damage with my big ass compressors, just use a rag in between the compressor and the spring.

Exactly what I mean... most spring comressors you will find are for cars and they are too big, they don't quite fit inside the coils and then you end up wedging them in there just to get it to compress and then chip the PC... PIA

It's easy but you need a good set of snap ring pliers for sure. Just pull the old packing and the center tube out after you pull the end caps off. Get some packing (I use insulation. Like the kind from home depot (the pink fiberglass)). Cut a piece off the same length as the tube and roll it up semi-tight so it will fit back into the silencer housing. Put a couple small pieces of masking tape around it to hold it together and then slide it back in the silencer and finish up. Done deal.

Yeah it's a bitch to do without the right tools and I usually cause a little damage on mine when I put them back on so i don't usually accept springs from anyone unless they are already off and it's the customers responsibility to get them back on... I just haven't justified buying the correct tools, just the cheapos from Harbor Frieght. Send them to "sheerider1026" he does great work too!

Sorry to hear it man but keep your head up, there's a girl out there for you somewhere that will truly be in love with you and faithful I'm sure. When I was at Fort Hood quite a few years ago there was a sports bar down on the west end of post that all the wives would frequent right after a large unit would deploy... Everyone called it "open season" when a unit deployed because everyone knew what would happen.... bitches!

Yeah dude I would try to get it out of there... Your powder coater may not like being smoked out of his shop from burning and dripping grease. LOL I don't... :cool: The way I get them out if you are cheap or don't have a welder, is go to Harbor freight or home depot and get a set of those plumbers sockets (name?). One of them fits kind of loose but usually gets them out and if it's being a bitch, hit the outer frame around the nut with a torch or heat gun and it should come out, just try not to heat the nut up too much. The nut should be cooler than the frame area.

Yeah it's very confusing but I switched the two stators out 4 damn times with the new CDI on before I decided to swap the old pickup onto the new stator and then everything worked perfect except for the goofy green/yellow wire gremlin. I have very solid grounds on the harness, I've checked them multiple times but I will definitely check again. I'll find out what happens when I get home tonight. If it starts I'll be happy, but if I have to ground that damn green/yellow wire I'm gonna be stumped...

Ok gotcha yeah I was wondering if that could have been a clutch or brake check-wire. That makes sense why it would do that but there's got to be a way to bypass it wouldn't you think? My wife's bike has the same wire running through the harness somewhere but it starts regardless of brake or clutch etc. so it must be tied into something that allows it to start and still run good without the brake or clutch/gearing. I hate to mess with running a momentary switch and all that crap. I'd rather tie the bitch off to something if I can. I tried the new CDI and the other (newer) pickup coil and it still wouldn't work... weird. But it works with the old pickup so that's what I have on there now.

Ok electrical experts, I have two questions for you; Bike was running like dog crap and I suspected electrical because no matter the jetting it still ran poorly, cutting out and missing... Question 1: I changed out my old stator with a new one, (RM Stator) and the bike would not start, it would pop every once in a while but wouldn't start. I began by checking the pickup coil gap and as I got the pickup coil closer to the flywheel it would act more and more like it wanted to start but still would not. I tested the pickup coil and it tested good, "should be 94-140 ohms" and tested at 106 ohms. I went back to my old stator and tested that pickup coil an it tested out at 120 ohms and with the old stator on the bike would start. So then I put my old pickup coil on my new stator and the bike starts just fine so the problem is definitely the new pickup coil that tests out at 106 ohms. My big question is why would it make such a big difference from 120 ohms down to 106 ohms when the 106 is still within spec?? Question 2: I actually found out why the bike was running bad, it was a bad CDI. I had a spare CDI sitting around so I went to put it on and the connectors were different so it's obviously from a different year. I spliced on the old connectors to the other CDI and plugged it in. The bike would finally run good but the odd thing is, there is an extra wire coming from the newer CDI (green with yellow stripe) what is this wire? I can't find it in any diagrams and for some insane reason the bike only starts if I have this wire grounded but then once the bike is running it runs like shit until I disconnect that wire and then it runs great. sorry for long post but thanks for the help in advance!! Tate

I just put this clutch in my bike and so far I absolutely love it. Grabs hard. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...%3A1|240%3A1318

Yeah I can, I'll pm you.

It's a deal! I'll pm you.

Oh, I need a kicker too if anyone has one...?

I'm looking for a stator in really good condition, stock is ok or a higher performance one (no Ricky Stators please). Also looking for a high performance coil. I'll PC for equal or possibly a little greater value! Thanks Tate

Hmmm. well hopefully it stops if I put in new plates, fibers and springs... I'll have to check the spring tolerances and see tonight.

Alright guys got a problem with the wife's clutch. Wanted to run this by everyone and get some thoughts. I was riding and all of a sudden out of no where the clutch started making a loud "sliding" noise. I've read a few other posts of people referring to a noise like a "bad cassette tape" and I suppose that's what it sounds like. I pulled the cover and the only thing I see is these marks so I'm assuming the pressure plate is making it's way out and coming in contact with the cover?? Let me know what you guys think could cause this, could it be simply the clutch adjustment??

Hey thanks again guys! I'll try to get a pic of my girls pipe and post it up in the next day or two.

haha thanks guys! I could get better pictures but I get impatient and busy so sometimes they aren't as clear as they should be... I need to start remembering to use the "close up" setting on the camera... lol

Get better soon man, hope you are good for the St. A's trip but if not just take er easy and we'll ride up at KP or something this summer!!