NitroTate

Jeff at FAST got me some for about $59.

I agree with those guys, we're pretty leery of newbies who try to sell stuff (no offense, you might be totally legit). I'll give you an opportunity to start proving your legitimacy on HQ though if you want? You can do a search on me if you want, I'm honest and upfront. Send me a banshee rear brake caliper if you have one because that's all I need right now, and also send a part of your own that you would like powdercoated any of the colors below and I'll send you your part back coated. Then I'll let everyone know you held up your end of the deal. That's what I can offer... Gloss white Gloss black Flat black Tate

Not really any places more than others, rather be careful not to get it too thick that it ends up dripping down inside the cases when you put them together. I smear it on with a small flathead scredriver on both sides nice and thin and the assemble. My .02

Alright guys so I'm good to go on the master cylinder but I still need a rear brake caliper... Anyone need some PC??

Well wouldn't you like to know where I got it??? Heh :cool: The pros don't let the secrets out there buddy...! I will tell you that as previously stated, it's around 50hp for the boost bottle alone but with the patented Tripple-Double you have to do some math so here goes; You take your normal 50hp and "Tripple" it = 150 hp then "Double" that = 300 hp!! Nothing like the rush!!!

Hey sorry about the job man. I'm kind of in the same boat but it was my wife that got laid off last year right before Christmas bonuses... A-holes!!! and she is still unemployed... we're fucked if she doesn't get something soon! Anyway on the cases... here's a little hint of knowledge... don't ever blast aluminum with glass bead. It doesn't ruin the aluminum but if you plan to PC you might have a nightmare issue on your hands. The glass bead embeds itself into aluminum and "pops" out when you are baking and causes pock marks all over the place in the finish... Now that it's too late on the cases, make sure you off-gas them REALLY good before you even think of coating (that should also help take care of the oil). Do this: >Blow them off really good with compressed air >Clean really good with amonia and then acetone >put them in the oven at about 450-475 for at least an hour to 1.5 hours >pull them out, let cool >clean again really good with simple green (NOT ACETONE) >clean one more time with rubbing alcohol >then proceed to coat this should help minimize any issues you'll have with the oil and the glass bead

Oh, you mean the Pro-tec Tripple-Double Booster?? Yeah I have one of those, they are AMAZING!!

I was driving to the motorcycle shop on my lunch hour and a guy in the other direction of traffic passed by on a streetbike without a helmet and the biggest damn afro I've ever seen sticking straight up because of the wind! Hahahahahahahahahaha Damn I wish I had my camera!!!

Ok so here's the story so far. I'm pretty sure I was a little on the rich side prior to oiling the filters so when I oiled them (oiled too much...deedeedee) it caused it to get way to rich. I'm running 27.5 pilots and 290 mains. I'm going to bump down on both because it's idling ok now that I got some of the oil out of the filters but I know it's still rich because I've backed the screws out about as far as I can and it still seems a bit rich. I think one size smaller on the pilot will be perfect. It still bogs at 1/4 throttle and above so I'm going to try a size or two smaller on the mains. I'm on the middle clip on the needle so not sure if I'll mess with it or not... My plugs are pretty black though so that pretty much sums it up. After I get it to respond nicely with the jetting change then I'll do a plug chop.

Ok so just had too much oil on the filters. I still think I'm too rich so I might go down a size on my pilot and definitely on the mains... thanks anyway.

What up guys? I can't seem to get the search to work for me so I wanted to post a quick question. I'm out tuning up after a complete rebuild. I've gone through about 5 heat cycles so shees ready to go now. I cleaned up my two K&N pods super good and then oiled them and now she won't fire on the right cylinder when the right filter is on... take it off and she runs great. So I must have some issues with jetting or maybe air screws because that little bit of extra air restriction won't let the right side run. Left runs fine. Also seems to be spitting a little too much oil out the pipes... Any suggestions as to what this behavior means? I'm having a brain fart today... thanks Tate

I have a friend that said he might have one so hopefully he does, if not I'll have to check with a speed shop or something. I did find them online though.

Ok guys, another question for any brake experts out there... The banjo bolt I have is a "double banjo" however inside the housing that it goes through (pic above) there is only 1 hole for the fluid to travel through, not two. Do I absolutely NEED a double banjo or do you think a single on will work? Does anyone know the exact purpose of a "double" banjo? Is it for attaching 2 banjo fittings on 1 bolt typically?

Yeah, I think it was intended for dragging but even though I'm not much of a dragger I really kind of like it. Less to think about when things get hairy!!

Ok so might not be so bad, I just found a bunch of online places that have double banjo bolts. Hopefully I can find one locally. At any rate if anyone knows the manufacturer I would still like to know.... thanks!

Ok guys, I'm thinking I may not find anyone who has seen this before or even knows the manufacturer... If I'm lucky I'll find them or at least a replacement bolt. This is a dual brake setup that has been on my banshee for 7 or 8 years now, I actually like it (other than trying to learn wheelies). The front brake lever was converted into "front AND back" brake. The little junction box in the pic below has that adjustment screw on top to allow me to adjust for more or less pressure on the back vs. the front when the lever is pulled. It mounts up right where you see me holding it up to the master cylinder using the bolt in the next picture. My problem is this bolt is bent and is causing an air leak so I can't get the brakes to bleed or prime! I'm really hoping someone either knows the manufacturer or knows where I might be able to find a replacement bolt just like this one??? Hep me, Hep me!

I'll get some after I get done trying to prime my brakes, I have it twisted out of place right now. I'll get them on here as soon as I can.

Ahh gottcha. ok thanks

The cap could definitely be the prob I don't know. I can only assume it's the original 1989 cap... I think I'll swap it with my wifes banshee and see... As far as the bubbles go, what do you mean? I'm not quite following you because the overflow hose comes out of the very top above the coolant level in the radiator so it wouldn't be bubbling anyway and if the cap is on you can't see anything anyway. Can you explain a little further? Thanks for the help

Ok after a bit of searching to no avail... I'm going to resurect this posting... I'm having almost the same issue here. Mine will create a small pool of antifreeze out of the overflow tube about 5 inches in diameter after reaching about 190-200 deg. It's not pissing really bad but just wondering if I have an issue? Here's the things I've already checked: Brand new rebuild No bubbles inside while running so don't think it's head. (Brand new orings in coolhead) definitely from overflow tube, I have a clear tube and can see it coming out Just put in a brand new billet impeller Haven't done a pressure test, can someone explain how please? Let me know if you guys think I have an issue here? thanks

Ok so I finally got the brake lever assembly mounted last night and realized that the Dual gasser make it a little challenging to get it mounted correctly. The shaft coming out of the throttle gets in the way of the brake lever moving. I did manage to get them both placed so everything works fine except one little worry... I had to move the throttle out a ways toward the end of the bar so I think there's probably about an inch or so of the plastic twist tube (that the grip slides over) hanging off the end of the bar. I don't really think it's going to be a big issue unless I crash really hard and it lands on that bar end. Just thought I'd let you guys know... Tate

I just put it on the other day and I'm thinking it takes a thumb cable but I have a twist cable so I just put a spacer in right at the adjuster and it works perfect.

Yep, she started up last night!! Sounds purdy too!! My stator is about 4 years old, I really like the high output but don't like all the unreliability everyone talks about. I called them to see if they would help me out and they said they would discount a new one for me... Not sure what I'll do yet...

Any of you experts out there have any way of fixing the primary coil??? I lost spark before I began my teardown and rebuild and that was the problem. I had to use my old crappy stock stator but it still works. I only come up with about 10 ohms when I measure between the green and red wires and I think it's suppossed to be around 13-14 ohms... Can they be fixed somehow or is it just a done deal??

Got my motor in and everything on today and she started up after just a few kicks!! Shee Purrrrrsssss so nice! Now I just need to finish putting it together.... Like I said before I video taped the WHOLE tear down and rebuild so I'll have massive amounts of pictures and a "DIY Help Video" soon. Man what a good feeling when it starts up!!!!! Relief!!!