bansheeryder21

typo... it is a 52

I hope it's just a simple electrical issue. thanks for the help. Can you break down how to test the coil, stator, and caps? Procedure and readings? Two weeks ago I was running a 350 ported duner (HJR) and had no electrical issues at all. The cub is a new case with a stator and flywheel off a 2001 banshee. But the same flywheel and stator was also running on a stock 350 two weeks earlier as well. I'm wondering of the cubs are sensitive to electrical spark. My ported 350 was fine but now I'm having issues with my cub. I wonder if the caps need to be new because the way the cubs run.

I just got a 421 cub 4-mil built by Kevin @HJR motors. It is fully ported and I'm running 34m PJs. My sig lists all my mods. I took it out this weekend for the first time and it runs well until it warms up. I would do about 2-3 runs down the drags and then it would not rev out. When I give it gas (full throttle) it would just bog down and wouldnt not rev any higher. Low rpm's are okay as well as idle. If the bike cools down then it's okay for about 1 more run and then bogs out again. Plugs are brand new. Jetting is 172 main, 152 pilot, air screw 2 turns out. Plug color is light grey and bike is not overheating. I've read that this could be my plug wire caps and that the resisitor goes bad after awhile. It is an 04 and they have never been changed out. I played with my jetting 170, 172, 180 mains and it does the same thing all around. 170's feel the best but plug color is very light grey and I don't want to run that lean. This is a brand new cub motor with zero hours. Can someone please help me and explain why this is happening? I have not changed out my plug caps yet. Just got back from Gordon's yesterday. Not that it matters but I am running Maxima K2 fully synthetic esther blend oil at 40-1 with AVGAS. Air filters are brand new. I have an allumunim oversized radiator with an oversized impeller and water wetter w/distilled water. I am going to use engine ice instead to keep it cooler. Compression is at 135psi in each cylinder but I believe my tester is bad because I bent the hell out of a copper fitting and the o-rings are worn. I will use a different compression tester to get true reading but do not believe that compression is an issue due to it being a brand new motor built by HJR. My squish is .050 which is perfect. Any help will be appreciated thanks!

My tire size is actually 21x11x8 8 Paddle

I will be duning it as well as playing at the hill and sand drags.

22x11x8 Hauler 8 paddle, +4 swing arm, and weigh 155lbs.

Irrelevant from my thread, but I've been on avgas ever since HJR built my motor. Detuned once for pump gas and hated it. Pump gas lacks too much power. Anyways.....back to the gearing question.

I did ask him. He said to try 14-38. I wanted to see some other set ups and get a few opinions and ideas.

I am having a 421 cub 4 mil built by Kevin at Herr Jugs Racing this week. My question is about gearing. It fully ported on avgas. I was going to run 14-38. Im running 14-40 right now on a HJR ported duner. I will be riding at Glamis duning, draging, and hill shooting. Let me know what you recommend.

Any thoughts on what i might be doing wrong?

Where did you get these paddles at and how much were they? My brother in law just got his banshee ported by Kevin (HJR) and needs some haulers but is short on cash. Let me know!

I was planning on going out there on Friday morning but it looks like I won't make it. The last week I've been doing a top end rebuild, race clutch, shift star, pancake bearing, and detune to run on pump gas. I am waiting on my pistons to get here and I have been wrestling with the pancake bearing for 3 days now. I have a ton of other stuff to take care of and it looks like I won't make it. I might wrench all day thursday to try to make it but might not. Have fun!!!

I don't know why but this pancake bearing has been the hardest thing I have done on my banshee. I got a shorter screw and it is too short. The long screw is too long. I need one that's in the middle. I have been messing with this for 3 days now and have made no progress. I am just going to have to cut down the longer screw in order for it to clear the clutch cover. I've made adjustments on both the pancake screw and the clutch lever to try to get this thing to clear but no luck. Either too long or too short.

Im at sea level. You think im too rich?

I am going to cut the screw or use the stock one if i can

sorry I didn't read your sig. That's cool we have the same set up. Eventually I want to up to a cub as well. Where do you ride? Im asking because I notice your gearing is way different then mine. I ride at glamis/gordons sand dunes and can pull 4th gear up any hill. Wondering if I should go up to a 15t front?

I will try that if Kevin doesn't have a smaller screw. Thanks!

LMAO!!! My bike is exactly what you want. I have a very fast duner/hill shooter built by Kevin Herr (www.herrjugsracing.com). look at my sig. give him a call and he will set you up. I reccommend buying an older stock banshee on CL for about $1500 or less. If you can find one that has T-5 or T-6 pipes and you can sell them for a good amount to buy some Shearer pipes from Kevin. Kevin can build you a motor for pretty cheap. And his builds will beat any competitors CC or CC guranteed! You can probably get away with a really nice duner/hill shooter for $2000-$2500 if you do it right. Not bad. It's awesome when a $2500 banshee dusts a $6000 four stroke.

call Kevin at HJR. www.herrjugsracing.com I would think 21cc domes with +4 timinng. That's what I run on 91 pump gas look at my sig for my motor. Not sure how different cubs are.

I got the pancake bearing from Kevin (HJR). There are at least six threads showing. If i screw it in more, it moves past the marker on the case and there is zero play in my clutch lever. I think the screw is too long.

I am in the middle of changing my clutch and doing the shift star mod. I have everything together but ran into a problem. When I pull on the clutch lever the clutch doesn't disengage all the way because the pancake bearing hits the inside of the clutch clover. I adjusted the pancake bearing so that the line on the clutch cable and case line up. I've read that some people adjust it so that the cable goes about 1/4" past the mark on the case. Is this okay to do and will this allow the pancake bearing to not hit the inside clutch cover when I pull in the clutch. Any help is appreciated. I also didn't pay attention to the arrows on the pp or inner hub. Everything seated okay and tightened up. Should I recheck the arrows or does it not matter. It's been a long time since I've done a clutch and am super rusty!

It was a great time. It felt so good to be on my bike again. Once I felt it pull I actually got scared of it for a bit but by the end of the weekend I was ready for a 4mil. Lol! Thanks for the advice, it all makes sense!

This weekend was my first desert trip of the season at Gordons Well Imperial Sand Dunes. Overall it was a successful trip especially since it was the first time on my banshee in three years. Here are the bike problems I encountered: 1.) coolant leaking out of overlfow tube onto pipes and head causing smoke -is this normal. I don't ever remember this happening. Bike did not over heat, it still kicks over fine 2.) axle carrier bolts for chain adjuster came loose and chain adjuster was turned under bike - too much power, need to tighten with impact Brother in laws banshee 1.) leaking coolant from either overflow, impeller hose, or impeller cover seal. 2.) pipe hanger broke, repaired with zip tie 3.) bike was rich and ran out of gas before mine -all his bike has just t-6's on it. Look at my sig, and tell me why HE ran out of gas before I did on every ride. Is this because he is too rich? Not too many problems but a few as usual. We also got stopped by customs and sent to secondary on the way home. They thought we had drugs. After about 30 min of BS they let us go. Just wanted to share my weekend with yuall. Tell me what you think......

no I used the idle screw of course. I used the throttle cable to sync the carbs (slides)

Okay, there is no piece connecting the chokes together but the bike runs. Is it possible this thing has been removed. Will it be bad to run it like that? If I buy a new one, how does it connect together?