fromygod

lay it down on a concrete floor,use a towel so u dont scratch the wheel, with the bent part facing down. get a small 3/8 brass drift or use a brass hammer and start on the least bent part( NOT THE MIDDLE OF THAT DING) try to work both sides back down evenly u will know when ur close when the wheel lies flat on its side. cant see in the pic but it is a smooth bend right? if its creased it might break. but what the hell u cant use it like that. make sure the bead is nice and smooth too. Hope it works out. WTF did u hit anyways?

my pipes made a noticable diff in the lower revs, the same for the v force reeds. IT aint gonna come of idle like a 4 stroke like Flo jo said thats the fun of a banshee, try riding a gear lower than u normally would, keep the revs up, i like to cruise just a little underneath the powerband, u get to know your machine,then, when one of those 400 boys least expects it, pin that some bitch and walk right on by

im gonna check the bowls, i only remove/rejet 1 carb at a time to keep things in order but that doesnt mean it happen before i owned it. Comp check was ok, so was leak down, no big diff hot or cold, but thats a good thing. Spark seems fine , bright blue, i had it jumping a huge gap on a old plug, machines a 98, but get this. today it started on four kicks.was only like 30 or 40 deg today, could still see my breath. it s a pain trying to adjust for this problem cause once its even a little warm its fine and ur done for a day. Damn finicky 2 strokes. will play with airscrews some tomorrow Thanks for the ideas BTW i imagine the bowl with starter jet is on left carb? somone reasure me

yea thats exactly why i won't register mine. How many times have u been out and been chased by DEP, told u were trespassing etc.... it a load of crap. theres this one place, a rock quarry in i think terryville no one cares about the ATVers but consequently theres so many people flying around u cant even have fun. Maybe if CT could turn out some honest politicans we would have a chance.

i guess tomorrow im gonna check compression, and try a leakdown test. do u think it could leak a little when cold but warm it seals ok? By winters end one leg will be thicker than the other

i use a old tow chain, it gotta be rated for at least 10,000 lbs braking strength. the links are massive, 20 ft of chain has to weigh 80 pounds. big ass master lock wrapped around the frame and the support to the garage. short of a cuttin torch she aint goin nowhere. but if someone wants somethign bad enough....

ok i got a proflow with k&N, fmf fatties, v force reeds with 3/8"spacer, other wise stock.310 mains 30 pilots. when i try to start it cold, like after sittin for a day i have to kick the thing like crazy for like 2 min, then it will finally sputter to life, choke position seems to not make a diff. this has been a problem only since mid fall or so. once it starts and runs for even 20 sec its fine and fires right up with half a kick. thing runs like a top, plugs look great. this is the first winter ive had it but my buddies stock shee is much easier to start. iv e tried bigger pilots and it diddnt help the starting issue , it ran like crap. is it just the cold and mods? a friend suggested using ether to start it but im not too comfortable with the idea. Suggestions?

i think ive seen them on either moto-man or magic racing.

limp bizkit, counterfeit Going past the house drunk at 3:30 am wide open helps too

wasn't fear and loathing loosely based on a true story, about a rolling stones journalist er something? great movie in my opinion. Suicide is a permanant solution to a temporary problem. R.I.P. bro

if u get a nice wide grab bar, i think mine is PRM, its not nearly as prone to "digging in". unfortunately i broke the rear subframe so i'm not even attempting wheelies now

so me and 2 friends go riding, 2 banshees and a 400. the 400 who i will now call curt decides that he wants to spin his bike out on the ice(couldn't tell u why) kept tryin all damn day, every time we went past this spot. i tried it a few times, just to see, couldn't do it. so we stop for a smoke break, right there on the ice. dead quiet, then we hear it, the cracking. now as far as i know the banshee is a heavier machine by about 50 lbs (some one correct me if im way off) so im expectin myself to go through. Damn if it wasn't curt in like 3' of icewater, perched up on his bike like a little girl. hillarous, till it took all 3 of us to get it out. standing in like 35 deg water right up to my sack . the ride home sucked too. but i still got all my toes and sh*t so thats good. will be staying away from the ice from now on

ok so i was screwin around on the shee yesterday and got a little overzealous(cmon, u know u did it at least once!!) and stood her up on the grab bar, slapped it down and just kept ridin. after i parked it i noticed that the grab bar and everything else was pushed way up, at a fairly extreme angle, the frame broke right next to where the bar bolts on. well not completely broke clean off but 95% of the way like its been bending a little at a time. has anyone else dealt with this or something similar. It looks like i can weld it all back together, but i wanna make sure theres nothing wrong with just frying it all back up(can't see why not but it dosen't hurt to ask). would like to weld some gussets in there too. its gonna look like sh*t but im kind of on a shoestring budget right now(damn CT job market)any ideas, suggestions? thanks in advance

u might be ok with out the o ring, but if that basket is missing a "prong" u definately need a new one. at the very least the basket would be completely out of balance, plus not holding the plates in alignment, witch is kind of the purpose of those prongs

the only one i kinow of is buy a co. called tudor. great product, thoughif u compare it to the stock piece, the roller on the stocker is like barely1/8'' wide and no bearing, the tudor's is as wide as the shift star, and it rides on a much smoother bearing. along with the new shift star she goes though the gears like butta! find neutral with your foot, its great, highly reccomended

as far as i know u got a useless set of tires. that bead keeps the rim from spinning inside the tire with friction, if it aint tight u will just smoke the rim inside the tire. i dont quite understand the valve question, but if ur really stuck on the tube i do have 1 laying around somewhere, i used to have a rim that wouldn't hold air, but now i got bead locks, (love em and they look HOT) what ever u do make sure its not gonna come undone @ like 60. that would hurt

even crazier, i scored a ss braided set and run stock arms. but like everyone else said, it makes the brakes much more solid. now if i could only do a stoppie......

umm im not tryin to sh*t on anyone but im pretty sure heat on a piece of heat treated steel is bad, weakens the metal, snaps when u land a hard jump. id say the pipe wrench is the best way, just opinion from a "ROOKIE"

u dont need no stinking grabber tool. Air powered impact wrench & 30mm axel nut socket. as for brands ive never heard anything bad with the ol dirt digger. but when ur in there u will want to check the clutch basket, that the largest round thing in there as well as the clutch boss, with is the smaller round thing inside the basket. remove the 6 bolts with springs on them and the pressure plate will slide out. be sure to catch the metal ball that comes rolling out of the shaft. after the fibers and steels are out of it look at the all of the edges where those fibers and steels ride in. ur looking for grooving or anything that looks extremly worn. Clymers has a pretty detailed section on the clutch, that whole book is worth its weight in gold. Ive never heard the term lockup but i imagine its when the plates can't / won't seperate, leaving the clutch engaged? anyone else? oh and u will know when its time for a, cluth did u call it? anyways it will slip especially in higher gears u will hear it rev but not pull. and depending on how bad it slips there will be a TERRIBLE smell of burning gear oil

[u dont need no stinking grabber tool. Air powered impact wrench & 30mm axel nut socket. any (reputable)garage has them. Ask around u probably know someone with one. as for brands ive never heard anything bad with the ol dirt digger. but when ur in there u will want to check the clutch basket, that the largest round thing in there as well as the clutch boss, with is the smaller round thing inside the basket. remove the 6 bolts with springs on them and the pressure plate will slide out. be sure to catch the metal ball that comes rolling ou tof the shaft. after the fibers and steels are out of it look at the all of the edges where thoses fibers and steels ride in. ur looking for grooving or anything that looks extremly worn. Clymers has a pretty detailed section on the clutch, that whole book is woth its weight in gold. Ive never heard the term lockup but i imagine its when the plates can't / won't seperate, leaving the clutch engaged? anyone else?

sounds like a fuel issue to me. u said u got good compression and with some extra gas it does fire.. so theres spark and compression, 2/3 of the process.Check the plugs, should be a chocolately color. are there any mods done? ill bet its the jetting if there is. 2 stokes are finicky little bitches, a seemingly insignifigant change in temp altitude even humidity will make it "not right".u might have inherited someone elses problem.try to get in contact with the seller, ask what he did or tried, no sense in going down the same road he did. for the cheap cost of jets u might wanna play with that first .try going up a size or 2.

yes it is. but it really shouldnt take u very long, provided u have the right tools. air powered die grinder worked great for me. if ur planning to use the lid to ur airbox that needs to be trimmed a little too. i run a outer wears stretched over the top of the airbox. $20 and its gotta flow better than that snorkel

are the hubs themselves tight. i had 1 loosen up once. the cotter pin stopped it though.

shift shaft assembly overnite to 06795

shift shaft assembly overnite to 06795 let me know i need this part badly