RNBRAD

This topic has come up quite a bit lately so maybe this will be some help for some of those that do their own repairs and mods. Total equipment cost is around 22 dollars from a local hardware store. The hand pump you can get from any medical supply company locally or over the net for around 3 to 5 dollars. In this pic you will see a hand compression bulb, hose, T-connector with shut off valve on the hose, a gauge, male 1/4'' to 1/8'' thread adapter, 2 straight reduction couplers (one a threaded brass and the other a plastic double end reduction coupler), four 1 3/4' to 1 1/2' tapered rubber plugs. Take your gauge and use a thread adapter (depending on the gauges thread size) and add a double male thread adapter so you can add the threaded reduction coupler. Take 2 of the plugs and center drill a hole in each one. Use a bit that is just a tad smaller than your reduction couplers diameter. Now push both reduction couplers through the rubber plugs. Really no need to use sealer between the couplers and the plugs if it's a tight fit. Be sure and use a thread sealer for constructing the brass fittings to the gauge. Place the virgin rubber plugs inside the exhaust port, do not use any lube. Use a flathead screw driver around the edge and push them into the exhaust port leaving about a 1/4 inch out. Take the one with the gauge and the pump installed and mount then to your intake manifold boots. Push them in by hand as far as you can and then tighten them down with your hose clamps. Make sure they are tight. Install the spark plugs and tighten them to the proper torque. Use the hand pump until you see 6lbs psi on the guage and then turn off the air with the valve to the squeeze bulb. This is a must cause these things will leak a little around it's internal valve. 6lbs for 6 minutes and your good to go. To test for leaks use a small spray bottle with a little liquid soap and water. Squirt around all seals of the intake, reeds, spacers, head, base gasket, spark plugs, and right and left crank until you locate the bubbling. Hope this helps.

That's what I would say too. Did you do a leak down test? If not be sure and do one. Need to know how to do one, do a search and if no luck get back with us.

A diet.... 1. Pipes 2. Porting 3. Compression and advanced timing. 4. Carbs

Wiseco for a forged piston and pro-x for a cast. Both have their benefits. A cast piston will seal better and will have less friction which will have more power and less bore wear. A forged piston is stronger, weight savings isn't that significant but they are usually lighter but not in all cases. Forged will last longer but will require more frequent rebores. Decide whther you want to replace pistons or rebore cylinders. I would defintely use wiseco if you plan on using nitrous or alcohol.

Compression of 160 or higher and or advanced timing.

I think your on the right track. I'm not sure I would change your pipes but after porting I would go bigger on the carbs, something around a 30mm. Look at lightening the flywheel and advancing your timing as well.

His mouth.

That's a triple roller.

I personally use Mobil1 15w50 cause it is readily available and doesn't contain the energy conserving additives. Also it's one of the best synthetics on the market. Others I would recommend are motul, redline or amsoil.

Gears oils are heavier or thicker than motor oils because this allows for better dispersion inside a gear box where there is not a pump to circulate the oil like inside a motor. As for type, use a sythetic whatever you use and generally stay away from car oils 10w30 and lower, most of them have energy conserving additives such as moly. This can be identified by checking the API label where it will list "energy conserving". Whether you use standard motor oil or gear oil is up to you. There is benefits both ways.

Lobo's cost more than anything and they're not proven to last and be any more durable than any of the other known products on the market. Personally I would buy Lonestar, Quicksand, Gibson or Jannsen. Find whoever has the best price and buy them. For radiators, Cascade makes the nicest one I've seen for the price.

The color of the skids in your underwear at the end of the day should match your plugs. Really though that would prolly be close, a moca brown color and a light sheen from the oil mix, nothing excessive.

Hey Scott I'll probably be there that weekend actually. I need to test and tune the cub so that's my only opportunity to go before the bhq ride.

I use cel's as well. Haven't tried them on the cub yet. BB what's your cub jetting? I should be close with my current setting, 50 jet, 165 main cel mid clip.

Put a spacer, like a plastic bushing/washer between your external shifter and your stator/chain cover.

900-2-0---00-1-----------------------------------------------------------------------01--0---0---1--3---------------------------------------------------------------------8-10---0-1---1----------------------------------------------------------------------- I rawk.

Good idea for a forum, there is a lack of information about those quads out there and they are getting more popular every day.

Just tap them with a rubber mallet, should come right out.

If the cooling system all check out and your jetting is correct and you still have problems, mix the water wetter with straight distilled water. It will cool better than anything available. The only thing you will sacrifice is freeze protection.

X-ring here.

If you want any chance of affordable insurance, you will most likely have to go with State Farm. You will have to have your parents move a vehicle over to them also to make it affordable. Otherwise your looking at 600 to 1000 a yr for liability or 3000 to 10,000 a year full coverage. Trust me, there is a reason the insurance on those bikes is high for teenagers. Just don't make yourself a statistic and help keep our insurance affordable. You may also look into discounts for attending motorcycle safety courses.

It's should be common practice to always follow up both ways after the sale. I always contact the people that buy stuff from me to make sure they received it w/o problems. To me, that's just part of being a stand-up seller.

Sidewinder sprockets, D.I.D. chains.

So any updates on this situation?