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What should the gap be set at between the pickup coil and flywheel magnets? I can't find this in the manual. Thanks.

If I can get mine running, I'll try to make it out there.

Did you figure this out yet? I am having a similar problem, except on the right side. I switched reed blocks and plug wires and the problem stays on the right side.

You're not the first person to complain about Janssen's customer service. I remember reading a thread on a different website of someone having similar problems. But once Joel was contacted and got involved, it was taken care of pretty quickly. Personally I had a really good experience when I bought my A-Arms from them. I worked directly with Shawn. The only problem that I has was a few nicks in the powder coating. But I am going to put a whole lot more nicks and scratches in the finish from riding, so to me, it really wasn't worth complaining about. Good Luck.

I don't know anyone within 2 hours that rides a banshee and will loan me their coil so I ordered one on Monday. I'm pretty sure that is the problem. The primary resistance was 4 times the book value and the secondary resistances tested as on open circuits. I should have the new coil by this weekend. If this doesn't fix it, I'll be posting again. Thanks for the offer Rod.

Thanks, I think you found the problem. I just checked my coil and it is not w/in spec. I guess I'll order a new one tomorrow.

I can't figure out this recent problem with my banshee. It runs like it is jetted way too rich, but I haven't touched the jetting. In fact, it has gotten way colder than when I jetted it, so it should be lean. The engine just won't clean out. It sputters and runs like crap. It has fouled a plug out on both sides. Up until now, it hasn't fouled a plug since it was new. The right exhaust smokes more than the left, but I attribute this to the cold weather and high humidity. It has been between 20

Yep. 0.030" is the generally accept rule.

Happy B-day and Merry Christmas too.

The YFZ450 has had some problems. But it is a much more powerful quad than the 450R. The Honda does not respond to upgrades as well as the YFZ. If you want to race competitively and jump, I suggest the YFZ450. I still have trouble getting over how quick my wife's YFZ is. It isn't as thrilling to ride as my Banshee, but if I was going to compete I would want to be on the YFZ, you are handicapping yourself if you race with anything else.

A cheap and easy way to lower the rear a couple of inches is to replace the 'dogbone' in the shock linkage with one from a Warrior.

You definately want to go shorter. If you will be running A-arms that move the front wheels forward 1", then I suggest a -2" swingarm. If you will be using stock a-arms, then I suggest a -1" swingarm. The -2" swingarm with stock a-arms is a little wheelie happy imo.

That is good to know. I have wondered the same thing myself.

Personally I think that the Delta 3s were developed to be cheaper to manufacture. (But they will sell them for the same price or more.) They will try to pass off some marketing hype about 'no-tool' reed replacement. But I think they just lowered their costs to improve their profits. This is all that most companies do when they make 'improvements' to their products.

I let my subscription to Dirt Wheels run out because...well...as you put it..."what a joke." I have picked up ATV Sport a few times and if I ever get another ATV magazine subscription, it will be ATV Sport. They at least admit that Banshees exist. Plus they only talk about Sport quads. I'm not into utility ATVs so I don't need to see it. Besides Dirt Wheels censors their advertisers. Have you ever seen one of the good O-Neil ads in a Dirt Wheels magazine? I don't think so.

Sounds like fun. I need to check my calander.

Toomey totally cheated CPI. Just as the CPIs start to produce power the dyno graph ends. The interesting thing about those graphs is that the SST, PT, and PCs all produced the same peak hp, but the PTs have more bottom and midrange.

See if the brake disc is bent by putting a jack stand under the rear carrier and rotating the axle. Use a dial indicator if you have one. Next I suggest checking the distance between the caliper mounting tabs and the rotor. These should both be the same. If not, use a hammer to adjust them.

How big is Little Sahara? Are there any tall hills, or is it just small mounds of sand?

I'm sure that the round house design is easier to work with. But I don't feel the Yamaha design is all that bad. I'd rather save $700 dollars and spend a few more minutes adjusting my chain. Besides, how often do you really adjust your chain?

They won't move vertically if the carrier bolts are tight. Is this happening while your ride? If so, you need to tighted the bottom bolt tighter. If this is happening while you are in the middle of an adjustment, the don't loosen the bottom bolt as much. Leave everything compressed a little so that they adjusted won't fall down, but loose enough that you can still move the carrier.

Excellent, this is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.

What about suspension? Before spending money on porting or ignition, I suggest +2, +1 a-arms and a shortened swingarm for trail riding. Shocks too, if you can afford them.

I want to paint the springs on my stock shocks, but it doesn't appear that I can remove the springs from the shocks. Does anybody have any advise on how I can either remove the springs, or otherwise paint the springs while they are on the shocks, with out painting the whole shock? Thanks.

Yep, just me and a local friend with a Z400. We kept out of the woods, so we stayed dry. It got near 50