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PRICES LOWERED Chrome Lonestar Anti-Vibe Steering Stem Stock Length - $125 Skat Trak Haulers 21x12x8 - $200 (Right tire has a VERY VERY VERY slow leak) Stage IV Billet Intakes & Reed Spacers - $65 (Should fit 33mm-36mm) Direct Drive Lock Out - $60 (Bolts on the arms need to be tightened) Polished Clutch Cover w/ Insert - $60 (Needs Oil Seal For Kickstarter)

I sent you a PM it should work with an aftermarket clutch basket but you do need a different clutch cover for it to work.

PRICE DROP Chrome Lonestar Anti-Vibe Steering Stem Stock Length - $150 Skat Trak Haulers 21x12x8 Single Buff - $225 (Right tire has a VERY VERY VERY slow leak) Stage IV Billet Intakes & Reed Spacers - $75 (Should fit 33mm-36mm) Direct Drive Lock Out - $65 (Bolts on the arms need to be tightened) Polished Clutch Cover w/ Insert - $65 (Needs Oil Seal For Kickstarter)

well i ran them on 35mm pwks so i figure they are for 33mm-36mm carbs

@nastyracing sorry thats too low

Looks good man ! I've always loved checkered seats

yah i've heard good and bad about them as well. maybe i'll look into checking my stator out first before I order a coil pack the only reason i have the rs 200w stator is for my duner lights, they're not as bright with the stock stator. but maybe i'll try a stock stator first before anything. thanks for the advice

here yah go

well what else could it be? im running a new RS 200W stator, and i also checked the wires on my harness they all look good. only other thing I can think of is the cdi.

yah i've read up on both but i'm still undecided so i posted up a topic about it, thanks for the suggestion though

Since my bike has no spark, I've been thinking about switching to a new coil pack first then a CDI if that doesnt work. What aftermarket coil pack would everyone recommend that you've had experience with? I see a lot of people talk about the nology coil with the hot wires, and some the dyna coil. Any suggestions would be helpful, thanks

Carbs were synced, and the temperatures were cold when this problem happened thats why i fattened the mains and turned in the air screws. Now i have a reason to believe it's the coil pack because im not getting any type of spark. I figured this because when the bike was running it would rev good at idle but high speeds ran like crap, and all of a sudden it wont kick over now. I tried 3 different sets of spark plugs, even switching the orange and black wires on the coil pack, along with the spark plug wires. I think its about that time anyway to replace some of the electrical since the bike is 10 years old

*All prices include shipping AND paypal fees *Tracking available upon request *All items shipped with priority usps shipping -------------------------------------------------------------- Chrome Lonestar Anti-Vibe Steering Stem Stock Length - $175 Skat Trak Haulers 21x12x8 Single Buff - $250 (Right tire has a VERY VERY VERY slow leak) Stage IV Billet Intakes & Reed Spacers - $85 (Should fit 33mm-36mm) Direct Drive Lock Out - $75 (Bolts on the arms need to be tightened) Polished Clutch Cover w/ Insert - $80 (Needs Oil Seal For Kickstarter)

Okay so I just had my motor rebuilt, I'm running a Hjr dune port, 35mm pwks, inframe shearers, pods, 18cc domes. My fuel mixture is half 91 pump half 110 with blenzoil 32:1. Br8es plugs Jetting: 158 main, 48 pilot, Air screws 2.5 out, Cel needle middle clip The bike kicks over fine but it bogs off idle real bad and up top it seems like the powerband is being held back. When I try and get on the throttle it seems like it wants to die but if I mash it full throttle it will slowly regain power. I set my advanced timing back to 0 that help a lot with he bogging but it still does it. To try and fix the top end I threw in a 160 main, that didn't work. I tried going in on the air screws to help with the off idle bog but it got worse. Then it started foing plugs and wouldn't start. What could be the problem ? It's driving me crazy !

Okay so I just got my lockout in the mail and right now I have an aftermarket clutch and HD springs. My question is should I put all of my stock clutch components back in ? Before my top end blew my clutch felt real hard and wouldnt engage so I'm thinking I should go back to stock to avoid any problems because it was fine before I replaced the clutch.

Just a heads up I will be out at Pismo this friday with a very large group, just seeing if anyone else will be out there as well !

thanks everyone for the comments! I think I might just end up doing that to my plastics and thanks bode1 I didn't even notice that banshee in his thread

thanks man... i just want to try something different. I mean the solid color is nice but gets boring after a while, and im not a flashy person I like it plain and simple. I think I might try the black/white with candy apple red frame for my winter rebuild.

here's another, black and white

Hey I was wondering has anyone ever done this? I want bring an old school feel back to my banshee, I really like the stock plastic look with two colors but never seen it applied to fullbore fronts. here's a photoshop of my bike as an example. yay or nay?

thanks man

here's a picture of my setup before I took it off. shocks are for sale if your interested

Clear your inbox bro, interested in the paddles

pics? dont need the pistons

maybe... send me a pm