decon

Well I readjusted it, PITA just to get to the damn clutch I think I will be investing in a lockout with a quick change cover. Also I think where I messed up the first time is I did not loosen the clutch perch adjustment all the way. But now I cant even test it because the brass fitting on my carb top fell through so only one carb works.

my slides open all the way up, Im using a braided throttle cable e by Terry Cable

sorry i did not mean to put idle i mean to put sync. It happened when i was syncing the carbs today. i noticed it was messed up when i tightened the lock screw because the whole brass piece turned. i contacted jeff im waiting on his response

ok just checking because i bought the exact same a-arms but in chrome. i thought they were LT arms but I guess not

man if it isnt 1 thing its another, now one of my carb tops is trashed. the brass fitting that goes through the top fell all the way through so there is no way to adjust my idle. the slide of the carb doesnt even lift when i pull the throttle because the cable is not at a fixed position. where can i get some tops form?

yah but i dont do any jumping or anything like that. just riding the dunes, bowls, drag racing.

great that's exactly what I wanted to hear.

what is your opinion on running stock shocks with extended a-arms just for a quick fix. I currently have yfz a-arms but decided to go with roll design +3+1. This guy fucked me over on a set of yfz450r shocks for my yfz450 a-arms so i just decided to move back to the regular banshee setup but don't have enough money for aftermarket shocks at the moment. Would I be okay running stock shocks with these +3+1 a-arms just at the dunes for a weekend? would the suspension just be really soft?

since my bike is finally together I think I will give it a shot. I got a few spots in mind

where can i purchase these rectifiers from

ok well its not the shift star mod. I have narrowed it down to the pancake bearing adjustment. I loosened the adjustment all the way on the clutch perch and now it shifts but it still doesnt shift as good. now im thinking i need to adjust the pancake bearing but not sure which way to adjust it. any help?

Carbs are sold

Ok so I recently rebuilt my bike, and decided while I was changing the clutch to install a modified shift star. for some reason when im full throttle and i grab the clutch and shift, it doesn't even feel like my bike is shifting at all it just rev's. BUT... if i lug my bike at low rpm's and shift slow it will switch to the next gear... what could be the problem? I also installed a EBC dirt racer clutch with 3 HD springs and 3 stock springs and a pancake bearing. could the shift shaft not be catching the shift star??? Im clueless at the moment.

are those banshee shocks you use with those a-arms or yfz450 shocks?

lol that sucks. where is the location of your current battery box?

Not Sure SEAT SOLD

yah I figured that for the most part. It doesn't really scare me because the wiring doesn't look to hard and my dad is a welder. I already rewired my wiring harness with no problems at all. And floating the ground doesnt seem too hard either, I have access to a soldiering iron. Just the location if the battery is what I'm more worried about. I think I would prefer it more up front. Maybe behind the bumper, I don't want wires everywhere on my bike. Just keep it simple and have everything up front. Especially since I relocated my cdi and voltage regulator inbetween my gas tank and radiator.

Sheesh 195? It's cheaper just to run the battery conversion. And you wouldn't have to worry about charging the packs. You figure you pay 195 for a pack, your gobbe end up buying another pack. Then 100 a price for hid's. That's almost 500 bucks. You can just buy a battery for like what... 35 or 50 bucks? I already have the 200w stator. It can't be that hard switching it to dc current to run a battery. How do I go about doing this.

Stock Carbs W/ Tors Eliminator Kit $65 shipped *Comes with throttle cable *includes severl main jets ( 340, 330, 320, 290) Chrome Duner Headlight's $40 Shipped *very Bright *Light Surface Rust cant see *DOES NOT INCLUDE THE MOUNTING BRACKET

I am located in northern California. Shipping is included unless your outside the USA MUST add .4% paypal fees to your total. I ship First Class with USPS - Tracking Number can be provided by request ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- K&N Pods $45 shipped *Came off a set of 35mm PWKS *Should Fit 33mm to 36mm *Outerwears have holes though PRM Powdercoated Black Bumper $60 Shipped *Couple Of Scratches Pro Design 22CC domes $20 shipped 2000 Stock Banshee Seat $55 shipped (shipping is about $20 for seats) *Good condition *No Rips *Clean

I like that idea of a battery pack bracket. How much do the battery packs usually run for?

What you reccomend. The battery pack or dc conversion with a battery? And do you have a website that shows the solstice lights?

Well the only time I would utilize the lights is at night in the dunes. How long would the battery packs last with a pair if those solstice lights ?

Damn those are bright as fuck. That would really help with my dune riding at night. But I don't go to the dunes too often What would be another option instead of running a battery? And could I do a dc conversion and run the lights without running a battery?

Right now I run two HELLA 500 Lights (In My Sig). Im thinking about ditching these and running two handlebar spot Lights and two flood lights down by my bumper. What would be the brightest lights I can get without running HID's because I dont want to run a battery, or do I have to even run a battery for HID's? I have a 200W Ricky Stator. Also would wattage lights would you recommend.