platinumjason

I think I talked to you once before, but yes right side smoking bad is usually a crank seal. I would recommend not to put anymore of whatever the hell you put in it the first time. As for you excessive smoke issues, I would have to say its due to the fact that you're running 20:1. That ratio is wayyyy to rich. Most who run alky run 32:1 but the most common for pump gas is 40:1, myself I run 50:1 with no problems. As for this stuff that you put in it, did you mix it in with the gas or with the clutches? If its in with the gas you will have to disconnect the hose going to your carbs and open up your petcock and drain it into a gas can or whatever then mix yourself up some new gas at 40:1. If you put it in with the clutches go ahead and drain it and put in new stuff, I use Belray 85w gearsaver. If it seems to run better and still smoking bad out the right side you can do a leak down test which consists of removing the clutch basket and whatever else is in the way til you can get sight of the crank seal. Then pressurize the motor to 6 PSI and look for bubbles around it, if thats what you see, bite the bullet and split the cases. I dont know of any easy fix for a crank seal other than splitting the cases and straight up replacing it but if you keep putting addative junk into your shee Im guessing something else will go to hell soon.

Nah, sadly my cylinders are still being ported at this time. I was thinking they should be done sometime soon, he said 2 week turn around. I will definatly be there opening weekend though coming up next season. I was pretty upset to hear discussion of a speed limit being put in place for all of the dunes so I was prepared to sell off my Shee to get a crotch rocket. Looks like I wont have to sell the shee now as everyone said it was rumor but I may get a crotch rocket still :biggrin:

Because everyone says the single carb you lose top end. So I was thinking like a 40mm carb bigger = more fuel right? While still having the single setup bottom and mid possibly?

Alright so I've heard some good about them and mostly bad and people saying they are not good for dunes or drag ( which is all I do ). Anyway everyone says the size of the carb limits the top end of the single setup deal. So Im wondering what if I were to run just a single carb setup but with like a 40mm carb? I've never seen a intake that big but have seen a 36 or so. Just wondering if the "potentially" lost top end could somewhat come back running a bigger carb?

This guy is a scammer. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68403

Well you know where he lives right?

I had a K&N filter with the Pro Design adapter like brand new I put on eBay for $90 buy it and if you used buy it now I would ship for free. Well they ended up bidding it to like $98 or so with 12.50 shipping. :yelrotflmao:

Looking for a stock head milled for race gas and o-ringed. Let me know what you got.

Make sure the +4 key you installed hasnt sheared. I havent had any problems with mine nor have my buddies but they are know to shear sometimes.

You can find a good used banshee crank on here or ebay for between $75-$125. I wouldnt buy anything through a dealer.

V Force 2 or 3's are the way to go.

I can sit on mine and kick it over to get it started. Only have to kick it half to three quaters of the way.

I'd use a ball tip hone.

I bought some steel roller cheap crappy ass chain for my LT250R and never again will I buy a cheap chain. I spent most of my time adjusting the damn thing because it streched like a bitch.

I'd post his address and all info you have on him so everyone can see.

I'd wouldnt mind seeing Bush as president again.

Do you have a direct link to these? Also how big are the screen pieces? I have Casacde silencers and at 3.5" OD I need a couple giant pieces.

Rockymountainatv.com is your best bet. I bought a gallon of bean oil shipped for like $38 I think

Looking for a stock right side carb in good shape. Been having some problems with my right side burning up so I want to swap out everything in my right carb. Let me know what you got and how much, thanks.

Yeah the Trinitys do look excellent from the pics I've seen. Didnt really have any fitting issues with my CPI's. I hear alot of times that the silencer mounting tabs are welded on crooked but bought mine used with the CSFX silencers so no issues there. I guess mine are also triple plated show chrome by Cascade. I dont have any other sort of chrome pipe to compare them to as far as finish goes but they do look good.

I've been wanting to try a set of Trinity's Stage IV pipes. Hear they compare real close to CPI's as far as top end but also have a little better low end. Any happen to have a dyno comparison of these 2? I also have a pipe here that is a old school FMF gold which I guess was called a Torque. I had it on ebay for a few and had a guy send me a message saying that he runs these pipes on all of his banshees and said when he dynoed them out that the FMF put out like 2.3 horse more than the CPI's did. Wish I had the left side so I could throw them on and see what kind of a difference I notice.

I ended up having to get a set of Cobra clamp on 3.5" ID for my CPI's with Cascade silencers but had to right them up because I could get the sparkies to slide over the screws that hold the end caps on. I ended up having to cut up a round plates out of 1/16" steel and cut a hole in the center for my silencers core to slide threw then brazed them together to keep the packing from blowing off the core and plugging up my exhuast. (Had it happen earlier this year) After that I used 2 copper couplers that slide over the end of the silencer core and then brazed one of those on to each core so that will keep the core pressed up against the screen in the sparkies and keep my cores from wanting to back out. Also I would go the route of just buying the sparkies rather than putting screens into you existing silencers. If they really plan to enforce it and be tough on it then they know the tricks people try and they know to look for a stamp that says is good. I heard also at Silver Lake here in MI they are training people what to look for as far as silencers go and which ones stock are spark arrested.

Haha, hope you get your stuff sold.

I've used both before, I used the Gecko's on a friends blaster once and those just arent worth the rubber they're made with. I happen to have the AMS Aerospeeds that I use to run on my Banshee before I switched to Hauler Extremes. The AMS's were alright but a bit heavy for my taste which is why I switched to extremes. If you do however happen to ride in gravel type stuff I wouldnt get the Skat Traks it just to rough on them but the AMS paddles would be more ideal for them. If you're interested I'll unload the AMS ones I got, they are 20x11x8 on douglas blue label rims.

First off I assume it didnt blow up and you're just replacing the top end because the compression is low? If thats the case all you should have to do is hone out the cylinders and get a new std bore top end kit. If it happens to have gouges or anything then it will need to be bored. Most usually go .020 over on the first bore but if its not to bad you can probably get away with .010 over. That is if its got scratches or whatever else on the walls. Here is a decent top end kit with everything you need except for the 2 wrist pin bearings. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...sspagenameZWDVW Also found this kit which has the wrist pin bearings so its totally complete and all you would need. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WISECO-ATV-...sspagenameZWDVW