BigRed350x

I'll have to dig up some old photos. That was my favorite banshee i ever built. Man i miss that one.

Aww thats a bummer to hear! I'll have to give him a call.

It could also be the bushing inside the clutch basket where it mates to the trans shaft. Or any one of the gears that spin free on the trans shafts. I would definitely split the cases and go through the whole engine. Take the gears off the transmission shafts and check the tolerances and look for heat markings on the shafts. Burning white smoke would hint at a damaged PTO side crank seal. Pull the clutch cover and remove the clutch basket and check everything in there.

Thanks! Thats all pretty old stuff now-a-days. I'll have to do an updated one with some of the little tricks i learned over the years.

I'll have to try and dig up an old beater for cheap and start building another one now. Probably another 10mil twister. I always liked that particular build.

It is just a small roll pin tapped into the outer bearing race. You can pick up roll pins from most hardware stores. You could just get a new one and tap it in with a little hammer and you would be good to go. With how small that pin is, I would guess it would cost less than $1 to buy.

Holy crap I've been away from banshees for a long time! Had a friend bring a blown up stock stroke by my place and asked if I could rebuild it. I figured sure, what the hell. Now I've got the itch all over again having his banshee in the garage and going through the whole thing. What's new these days? Any cool new top ends on the market? any new pipes? I figure most people are getting into the side by sides and not much R&D is getting put into the banshees any more. I got myself a 2015 RZR XP4 1000. Did some suspension work to it and put a billet sprague in the front diff. Other than that its pretty much stock. Anyway, hello everyone!

You could have saved yourself a lot of work and just drilled the hole through the needle valve housing a little bigger, then counter-sink it to give the needle valve a surface to seal on. Also, don't forget to remove the angled supply hose barb and install a straight one. The factory hose barb that comes on pumper carbs will screw you over if you are trying to gravity feed them.

Only if you're ghetto-rigging shit together...

Why not just run a pump and use the carbs how they are set up?

Did Louie do the motor?

Rofl @ green.

Sold. You Oklahoma guys have to let me know how it does down there at lower altitude.

You will need to rejet for it. It is an oxygenated fuel, so you will need to go up on your mains to accommodate the change.

My -14.3mil cub runs eleventy seven in the 16th.

91mph on 18" tires?

Fail.

Sale pending...

Thanks for the compliment! -Jared

I shot you a counter-offer via PM. Thanks, -Jared

For the money we spend on these things, the price of the safety gear is nothing. Good post green. I'd stand behind those rules.

Bump

Thanks for the compliments. Hope i dont have to part it out...

Looks like a good deal!