BigRed350x

I'm still not totally sure which route I will go. Depends on how easily I can get the cut domes... I still have a lot of parts to buy before I will get it running. I sitll have a good $1500 worth of essential stuff before I can be out there riding.

I got the stock stroke because I bought the whole setup from a friend, Vforce 3, cool head with 17cc and 18cc domes, and billet intakes that will fit my carbs, and it already had a pretty good cleanup port from K&T, all for the price of just the cub cylinders. It was a steal so I jumped all over it. The engine is a 1997, stock bore. I run a pure synthetic oil mixed at 32:1 or 36:1 with 91 octane pump gas. It had right around 75 hours on that particular top end. I ride pretty much every weekend and ride it pretty hard since I am a big guy and it takes a lot to run my fat ass around everywhere as fast as I like to go. Get your jetting right and you should be burning everything in the chamber every stroke, and not much left behind to build up on your pistons.

I ran the gorr port with stock stroke and stock carbs and it pulled really good. I couldn't imagine it with some bigger carbs. I think you will have a good setup. As for the comment above, I too have seen gorr woods ported bikes whoop the shit out of some big-name ported bikes.

I think it's mild steel, but not totally sure. Could be aluminum for all I know. I just know when you smash it into rocks it dents up pretty good.

If it's all stock I wouldn't pay more than $500 for it. Maybe $600 if it were really clean and had a new clutch.

ROFL! Do I have to teach you everything?

I rode a shee once that had them on there. It ran pretty sweet with them. I would say they are comparable to the T5's. It's just a preference as to when and how you want the power to hit. Those had a litle better mid range and sounded sweet, but I felt that my bike with T5's had a little more up top, which is where I ride most of the time, so I stuckwith the T5's.

I run wal-mart dinner forks in mine. I keep having to change them out though and don't understand why.

I went with the good ole barn for a garage setup. Horse shit and gravel and dirt eveywhere. Perfect for working on old ranch trucks in. Gotta love it.

Go in and sock him right in the face. Pow! Right in the kisser!

Like they said above, just check your compression, then try switching everything from side to side (reeds, intake boots, plug wires, etc) if the problem stays on that one side, it is more than likely a carb or top end issue. If it changes from one side to the other, just start checking all your stuff. My 87 did stuff like this all the time, and it turned out one cylinder was warped after it got really hot one time, I would always have problems on that one side. Check your compresson first of all, then try and clean your carbs real good and make sure your slides are right, no bent needles, etc. Let us know what you find. Could be a bad head gasket too I suppose.

Holy crap I can't believe how many views this is getting. Up to 900 something in just a few days. I didn't think it would be THAT big of a deal, but i guess I was wrong. I might have to do some more of these kinda things. What kinda stuff do you all want walk-through pictures for? I am going to do one for a clutch when I get my new clutch ordered. I could probably do one for how to change jets on a PWK, but if you don't know how to do that, you probably shouldn't be messing with jettng anyway.

That looks similar to one of my home-done port jobs! Ha Ha Ha Mine ran alright, but I've def. done some better home port jobs than the one that looked like that.

The cubs are for a stock stroke. Therefore I have to have either cut domes or a spacer plate since I am going to be running them on a 4mm stroker. I will need to get a set of 795 series pistons since it is 65mm bore and I have the 5mm longer rods on my crank. I will keep everyone posted with how this build goes. I should be ordering some more parts I need next week. Swinger, clutch, stuff for my carbs. - Jared

I usually follow through with stuff like that. Especially since I got to ride his bike. If I try something and like it, I go get it for myself. Gotta love it.

Looks?

good lord. I run big ole billet spacers on the rear end of mine to match the front +2. I don't jump real big because I'm worried about bending my axle. I couldn't imagine hitting something big with those big old things.

Thanks for support! I got it all together for the most part today. Only waiting on a new clutch and billet impeller then I can start on the top end. I still need some small stuff, as well as my new swinger and roundhouse carrier. Still trying to decide between a spacer plate or cut domes. Not sure. Talking to K&T about it. I am also going to send my cub cylinders to them to get ported for the 4mm some time next week I hope. After I get it running I will take it to the killpecker dunes for jetting, then I should be good to go. After it's running right and all the jetting is taken care of I am going to head down to Walden for some fun. I think the snow should be mostly melted by the point I am ready to go down there. We have a trip planned for Sand Mt. for easter weekend if Rick (my friend with 10mm Trex) gets his bike put together before then. I will keep everyone updated with how it goes.

Mine is! Billet!

Were you going to bore the cylinders you're getting from rick or what? I thought they were only .060 over and had a fresh bore/hone on them. Just curious.

I run the metal one, just because I don't trust little plastic parts. Yes they can be strong, but I just never liked them. Mine bolts up using the 3 bolts that hold the shift drumb backing plate on right below your sprocket and goes up around the front of the sprocket. Mine too is built so once you bolt it in, it is pretty much right on top of the cases all the way around. That way if the chain breaks the case guard binds up against the case all the way around AND has the 3 bolts holding it in place. See picture below:

Here's two shots after I washed the cases at work. Only took 5 min at 170

just pm me here. i don't give out my instant message names because then i have everybody and their brother bugging me about how to make their banshee faster. just use pm's here.

We need: Altitude Main Jet Size Pilot Jet Size Needle Clip Postion Compression Clamp on Pod Filters or do you have the plate inside the air box? If you don't know how to find any of those things, do a quick search. This exact question has been answered a LOT of times before. Genrally a pop and a backfire and difficulty starting are jetting problems. Sounds like you are really lean. Don't be runnin that thing until you fix it or you will cause yourself a lot of problems you don't want. Pull your carbs off and check your pilot size, main size, and clip postion.

T5's are the better route.