sheefreak

Sounds like detonation, but c12 should be fine. Watch for spark plugs backing out. djogejr had a good question.

Not if you are building a stock framed dragger.

Define cheap.

Me too.

Pics help tremendously!

You've probably never run a set of Fatty's. The only thing shit about a set of Fattys is the nickel plateing. I agree w/T5's only because the chrome finish is better. But if you happen to find a set of Fattys for cheap, they are very comparible to the t5's.

Airleak usually. May want to do a leakdown test.

Cleaning a foam filter that you do not run a full box on, especially in the sand sucks! Definately go w/the pod filters w/outerwares.

I was just at Silver Lake this last weekend and RDZ's bike ran real hard. In the top 3 or 4 at the dunes. Probably a big cub or cheetah though.

Either your tester is no good, or they forgot the rings. Borrow another tester and try again.

Yes. Also timing, and compression. Especially on the pipes though. Depending on his portwork, he will tell you exactly what responds best to his port timings. I would bet he will tell you Shearers, but maybe not.

The lockup will make it so you don't have to run stiff ass springs and will definately not make it pull hader. I run Toomey springs now(all 6) and it straight up sucks. First couple times I rode it my hand would uncontrollably contract(cramp up) from pulling on the damn thing all day. I am at the point where I need to invest in either a lockup or a hydraulic clutch.

That is undoubtedly the issue. They are infamous for causing this exact problem. Junk it, get a crossover tube or buy an intake w/one built in since you are in the market for one anyway.

You would need to run a spacer plate since your cylinders are already ported for a stock stroke if you go w/a stroker. I would personally run a dual carb setup if you are looking for top end, but I have never run a single carb setup. I would call and ask Cam about your setup seeing that he ported it. He can tell you what will and won't work w/his porting. When you hire a builder for porting, get your moneys worth. He should have no problems w/you asking questions. He wants your bike to perform well too. After all it is his name on it. Two strokes are unbelievably finiky w/setup. You might make one or two minor changes as far as setup, and all of a sudden find 10, 15 horse.

If it slips in 5th and 6th, it should slip in all gears. Just drain your oil and coolant, take off the side cover. Take the 6 bolts out of the pressure plate and give it a look. If they don't look obviously worn, use a dial caliper or micrometer to check the thickness of the fibers and compare to the tolerances in your clymers or factory service manual. Is your clutch lever easy to pull? If you find you have a lot of fiber left, could be the springs are shot.

You know you still have to use the ball also right?

I agree w/the air leak theory. Search leakdown tester on here if you want a way to test for airleaks. If you discover you do have an airleak, start spraying carb cleaner around all mating surfaces, when it revs, you found your airleak. Just out of curiosity, did you have it honed for the new rings? And one last thing, I prefer King Crab, split in the half shell!

If you wan't a little more, mess w/your back sprocket. If you want a lot more go up to a 15 on the front. Moving one tooth on the front is equivalent to moving 4 teeth on the back. Therefore your fine tuning, so to speak, will come from your rear sprocket. Up for top end on the front, down for top end on the rear. If you don't have anything more than pipes, and a cool head, I wouldn't jump a tooth in the front. I would try more like maybe going down 2 in the rear. Especially if you ride sand, you will not be able to get out of the hole w/o standing on your handlebars if you go to a 15.

I agree! If you are close to sea level and want to run pump gas, go w/the 21's

How is your airbox setup? Are you running the lid w/snorkel, lid w/o snorkel, no lid, no airbox?

So both sides don't have spark(assuming you've tried different spark plugs, and check all your electrical connectors, etc.). Start by checking all your grounds and connectors makeing sure you have good solid connections w/no broken wires. Then proceed to test your stator, coil, and pickup coil to see if resistance values are within your Clymer Manuals specs. If you don't find anything bad in your testing, test your kill switch and key switch. Still haven't found anything wrong, move on to testing your wiring harness. If continuity is good throughout the ignition portion of the harness, it then becomes a guessing game Can't test the CDI, and everything else tests good, start replacing your components cheapest to most expensive. If you have the option of obtaining spare or borrowed parts, test the components this way. I have never seen TORS cause a no spark condition, but if you want to eliminate that as a possibility unplug the control box. Good luck!

If you want power, port it. If you want bigger power, stroke and port it. No need for unnecessary over bores.

Do you have spark? How about compression? When you shaved the head, did you do a compression test? Do you run race fuel? More info...

Will be there June 28 to July 2, but not this weekend.

Here is a link Yaxy. Click on the pics to see larger view. They are in good shape w/some normal wear. I am also in the feedback list. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...topic=61397&hl=