sheefreak

What if your rings are siezed in the grooves and you have piston to wall, not ring to wall. This will create more heat. I have had this happen, and the side that has lost compression will start to fire and run at the top. Basically was hard to start, and wouldn't idle right, but would seem to "clean out" and run up top. I am not saying this is definately your problem, but have seen it happen.

You should purchase a clymers. Need a flywheel puller, an impact(or way to hold the clutch hub) and clean the shit out of it before you do it. It is very easy, and everything will stay right were it goes if you just lightly tap on the back motor mount to break the seal of the cases. Once they are free from each other, you can lift the top case right off. Get a clymers though just in case you run into trouble. Besides, you need all the torque specs, and head an cases get tightened in a certain order. The clymers will make sure you have all that info. While you are in there I always replace the seals, and you will need a tube of yama-bond for reassembly. Buy two Quarts of whatever tranny oil you use, and a jug of antifreeze. Another good Idea is to have your crank welded while you have it apart. Then you can bump compression or do whatever mods you may want to do in the future.

I was also told by a reputable builder it didn't help under a 14 mil in their dyno testing. However, he failed to mention it might hinder performance. Good info Bkabina. P.S. Thanks for the secret spy photos!!! LOL!

I second the compression reading.

Let us know how it runs once you get it uncorked, sounds like fun!

That's great. He didn't say he removed the rest of the TORS connections, or the leads that used to go to his parking brake. Besides, what would it take to unplug the box and check?

Have you ridden that beast w/6 over and a 12 paddle? I am pretty skyward running a 4mill, stock jug, drag port w/6 over and 70 rollout 9 paddles. Cdwood, w/a +4 you will have fun trying to keep the front end down w/10 paddles, especially running stock gearing. But you will need at least that to take advantage of the power you have. As dajogejr stated, it is a fine line between tire size, swingarm length, number of paddles and gearing to be setup ideally. Too much swingarm, no traction. Not enough swingarm and too many paddles, skyward. Too few of paddles, you won't launch. I would personally run a 8 over swinger, 12 paddle w/that setup on gas cdwood.

It's the TORS! Unplug the black box underneath the front left side of gas tank!

I may be wrong on the fuel tank, but I thought the alky was a little hard on the plastic. Higher compression and timing is not necessary, but ask any builder on Planet Sand, they have custom domes for alky and all run more timing on alky, and I am sure for good reason. Backcountry cut me some domes for gas at a compression ratio of 15.5:1, his alky domes are 17:1 ratio. Not only are the alky domes smaller, but cut at a different slope la la la. I just do what they tell me.

Don't blame the plastics. First time at the dunes tells the whole story. Sand robs horsepower, therefore the motor has to work harder, and runs hotter. Does this mean your shee is not worthy of the dunes? No, just means whatever is slightly wrong finally got a chance to show its face because you were demanding more from the motor. Look over some of the things mentioned above, and get off the idea of the plastics causing your problems. I would look at your plugs first cause it's easy, make sure neither side looks lean(make sure you look at both). Then work you way into the cooling system(free flowing, no obstructions, etc.) My bet is your stock impeller is either broken, or gear is stripped and not pushing enough liquid. The stock cooling system is adequate for a stock bike, you do have a problem.

If you want to spend the money, go w/someone experienced and maybe get it lightened also, call Andy at GRR, they will hook you up!

Have you held your hand behind the right side exhaust pipe? Does oil spew right out of it? If you are smoking as bad as you describe, may have a bad crank seal.

You'll want to Ideally run a little more compression w/alky also. The alky will attract moisture so is hard on your metal parts as well, just need to make sure you purge well. Will also need a new fuel tank.

I don't think you should be looking for bandaids here. Cut fenders should not cause it to overheat. The cooling system is adequate for a stock setup. Did you mess w/your jetting at all? Take a look at your plugs, do they indicate a lean condition, maybe you have an air leak. When is the last time you changed your coolant? Once you have a boil over you should change your coolant anyway. I love engine ice, definately give it a shot, but something is not right.

No, not really. I don't think it would be uncontrollable but if you want to do some draggin or hill climbing, better go w/at least a 6 preferably a plus 8. I run a 6 on a drag port oem cylinder, +4 stroke, and have to sit on the tank when I launch to keep from not going over backward. But the 6 is about as far as you wanna go if you don't want to lose dunability.

There are 7 o-rings. The arrow he is talking about is on the pressure plate not the fibers.

Shorter shocks like Marvin Shaws.

I agree!

Is it hard starting? The compression reading dropping has to do w/your guage, not the motor. If your compression tester is reading correctly, that is way too low. May need to go to next bore size if you just replaced rings, might be beyond wear limits for that bore size.

Sounds pretty good, but would prefer this for around 4k :baseball_original: http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showf.../gonew/1#UNREAD

What do you mean it doesn't hold it? What is your compression? Did you replace the rings when you honed it. Sounds like one side is not healthy. Have had sticky rings in one cyl. before and will run exactly like you explain. But you say you have same compression in both sides....

Second Generation HQ'er. I don't hate much...Except for rotten thieves!!!!

Anytime for a second generation HQ'er :baseball_original: I think you may be the first I have seen. Only been here a few years though.

Yes. Older J-arm frames are a hair lighter, but just cause of the J-arm. I am not sure if they are any lighter stock because the stock j-arms are so beefy. But aftermarket, the j-arm will be lighter.

Fastest growing worthless thread ever!