sheefreak

You have officially dated yourself...lol

You need to buy your cranks from builders. I would not run a hot rods, weisco, vito's, etc.(all same shit) w/o welding both pins inside and out and replacing both outer bearings w/tz and max load bearings. It is generally cheaper to buy a crank from a builder w/everything done than to purchase one and have to send it off to someone to do all the work. And I would not run a set of mismatched cases either.

Most guys run the cub in that area. .045-.052 ish. You are golden!

You didn't replace a Stroker crank w/a stocker did you? Do you have zero dech height or near? Are your domes recessed at all?

If you have done a leakdown test and it passed, I would not worry about a slight variation. In the drag world, a lot of the top builders will tune each carb individually to get them spot on. If you have had porting work done, the chances of each side being ported exactly the same is pretty much nil. Now if there is a night and day difference, you got a problem.

The front hood is Fiberglass and the grill is part of the hood.

I would not be cutting my pistons. If there is a gain, it would be in tenths of horsepower. And you most definately have a lean condition on the right side. Need to do a leakdown on every build you do. Would have saved lots of money here.

Very nice build Jeff. The weight is unreal....I have a full chromoly chassis and my bike weighs 275 wet.

I 100% agree w/Chris(Forcefed). I would never buy an off the shelf dome. I am sure Andy has set you up w/a dome you will be safe w/if you told him what you wanted to do and went w/his recommendation. I am also not trying to undermine anyone here, so I will leave it at that...

I have the steering stem clamp, it is yours. PM me an addy. I prolly have it, but just incase.

If I were close enough to come look at it, I would def. buy this setup. The H&S glass is worth at least 2k alone fellas. Smoking deal if legit!!!!

There will be a large difference in optimal carb size from a 4 mill 68-72 boe mini to a 4 mill 78 bore or even larger spread bore sniper application. Need the rest of the info...

They come nikasil coated. You do not bore nikasil. They are always setup as a 65 or 68 out of the box. If you have a 66.5 bore, they were prolly sleeved which is pretty rare to see. When you blow a nikasil cyl and mess the coating they have to be recoated. I know cylinders can be custom coated to different bore sizes, but not sure how thick you can go from the actual aluminum bore of the cylinder.

That sure sucks Dave sorry to hear that. Hope you get everything squared away JD. Hate to see this happen to such a good dude! Lemme know if there is anything i can do to help.

Myself and several people I know have had great luck w/them on 100+ HP bikes. I will def. buy again if I ever wear mine out. Can't beat the price either.

Here are my cut fenders Okay................here is a set of cut ones

Sorry to post such non worthy pictures next to the likes of your's mister disko

I am curious as to what you call high end? Are you saying you only polish billet?

Two very nice diagrams, the heat diagram is just worded backward. The richer it is, the less black will be on the plug. I posted this recently but here is a picture of a plug for further reference. You can see the timing mark as well. I could have put a lot more timing to this motor.

He ended up running a 3.0 something the second pass. Not bad for a worn out stock cyl 350...

They are aftermarket. Made by Matoon.

http://www.dunetv.blip.tv/ My buddy Eric won one of his classes. Black Banshee w/OOf cpi's....

I can tell you that Dan from Patriot knows his shit. If it is set up for race fuel you better run it. You are either in desperate need of a rebuild, or your compression tester is giving you false readings.

Before and after chromoly Nasty pourous Cast aluminum

Is it trashed out as far as deep gouges/scratches? If you could get me a pic it would be best. I could give you a very accurate quote. And thank you Alf!