sheefreak

I am going to work on the vouchers guys. I have to have dune ready's and trailor vouchers as well as make the track as soon after noon as possible. But in order to do that, I may need someone w/ a vehicle we are not taking into the dunes to park their ride in line first thing in the mornin. I may have the line vehicle taken care of, but if anyone else will have an extra we can park that would be great!

Shootin for 8:30-9:00.

I'll take the 41 tooth. Paypal?

Well, let us know what you find out guys. If it ends up being what we need to run on, he will love the turnout!

I have a tweaked radiator that doesn't leak and works fine. You can have it if ya want it. I will bring it Memorial weekend if ya like. Just lemme know.

Sounds like a good time for you to come up there flatlander....LOL Just messin Dave. After my wreck last year, I look at the whoops a little different than I used to.....

I would like to know for future Joe, but I will be at the dunes Memorial weekend. A buddy of mine was up there riding(he has never been to the dunes mind you) and he said it looked more like a rock gravel drag strip to him. I am hoping they can get it to where we can run paddles so we can meet up for grudge racing when you only have a day type thing.

Several are going to be there. There is a thread going about it.

I purchased one to use this year. I don't think you are going to beat the price and quality. Several guys that we race w/have been using that clutch kit(talking 100-130 hp bikes)and all seem to be happy with it.

I would run both outputs of your pingle to a T. The input to the pump is 5/16 so get a T w/a 5/16 output. It will provide more than enough fuel that way.

Last years build.

Beside the obvious added insurance of a pump it will also prevent you from ever accidentally hydro locking your motor. If your billet bowls have an overflow, shouldn't be a problem though.

I have 3 cheapies and they all read different on same engine, same day. If you want accuracy, purchase the most expensive one you can afford.

Can't go wrong dealing w/JT! Top notch honest dude.

If you are ever going to run the trails, you want to stick w/a stock cyl IMO. The power delivery of a cub is no good for traction and a stock banshee has trouble grabbing traction on packed dirt. Cub cylinders are for drag racing pretty much cut and dry. You can dune them and I wouldn't hesitate to put them on a dune/dragger setup. But never on a trail bike.

I have to caution you all. If the right officer is at the stand, they will not let you in. I tried this and got through quite a few times and then two trips in a row was turned back by two different officers. It will ruin your weekend!

You guys will have to put up w/me this year for more than just a few hours in the dunes each day

It's startin to feel all warm and fuzzy in here LMAO!

The thing is, if a shee is jetted correctly the stock cooling system works just fine. If setup right it runs at optimal temp, why would you want it to run cooler? I purchased one of these simply for looks. I am running no plastics this year.

I am sorry bro, I forgot to bring it to work w/me today. I will get it out tomorrow and send you a tracking #

A leakdown tests the entire front crank/cylinder cavity. Will check for leaks at crank seals, case mating surface, base gasket, reed/intake areas, and head and spark plug seal as well(I have had a spark plug I thought was tight leak on a leakdown before). If it is a cool head it could be tough to find because the leak may just be into the inner cavity of the cool head and sealed perfectly fine to the outside. But if it is not holding the 6 lbs and you can't find it leaking anywhere else, most likely that is your problem. On the pipe subject, I think it is the head gasket, but you are going to have the pipe off anyway to plug your exhaust ports. See if anything dumps out of it. Even if it was a crank seal, and you fixed it and never dumped the pipe out, it is gonna still smoke till it burns most of that oil out of there...

To get back to the subject, I purchased one of the Boss ones from In2glamis and it is a very nice radiator for the money. It is no torch works, but nice and functional. And man did it polish up nice!

Absolutely Alf, and that is partially what I am saying. Why someone wouldn't rather send someone like you a whole $20 extra to be buying from a local business man where the money is going to go back into our economy rather than sending their money directly to china is beyond my comprehension. But hey, I am just a dumb phone guy...

ALright, I may have been a little harsh yesterday on my comment to Ragin and I apologize. I could have just said, you don't have to speak to me like a little kid w/a smile on the end of it. As far as you go Hector, you seem like a semi-intelligent person, but not many people last long around here starting out the way you do. It is kinda like when you first join a group or club or when you first meet a group of people.....you don't generally make friends by starting off being a smart ass and insulting people. But hey, it is kinda fun Jawin anyway so carry on....

If you are seeing white smoke, I would more be thinking coolant leak. What kind of head do you have? It was mentioned earlier in the post, but start it up(from cold so you don't burn yourself LOL) and take the radiator cap off. Take a look down in the radiator and see if you can see bubbles. A leakdown test would be best to find a head leak or any other leak for that matter. I wouldn't 100% dismiss the possibility that you had a crank seal leak either though. When you took it apart to replace the seal, did you dump the pipe out to see if any fluid was in it?