blowit

I did note that most of the Clymer manuals show the secondary test wrong for the banshee. You need to test from output1 to output2 wires. If you are not testing this way, you might try it. Most of the time, coils are tested bad but are actually good. They are VERY simple devices that rarely fail but the wires, caps, and terminations do fail on occasion. I recommend removing the wires as soon as things do not test correctly. This give s way to test the wires, coil, and caps, separately. If all check good, move on. Not the problem. Reduce plug gap and note any change in performance. If you have access to a scope or analyzer, then you can read the output from the cdi to the coild and figure out what is going on. Brandon

Probably not the plug wires with a total loss like that. Either stator, CDI, or a short in the system. Brandon

We prefer glass bead or plastic medias to a nicer finish on the cylinders but sand will not hurt the outside of the cylinders. If you prefer chemically stripping them, there are aerosols available at auto stores called aircraft stripper or something. It works well. Many times, the painted parts that get ho,t get cured enough to hold paint for dear life. You may need to squirt on laquer thinner, MPK, or MEK to get the paint soft enough to work with the stripper. Personally, I would just blast them and them finish as needed. Brandon

Sounds like a classic toe-in problem. You also need to make sure you have positive caster. Might need to research what that is but those two things are generally the source of problems like this. Running some negative camber will help stabilize things in the corners. Don't be afraid to adjust things. This is how guys get fast. Make it how you like it. Brandon

Our flow bench showed this setup to out flow anything else on the market, even just the filter bolted the the carb. The venturi helps organize air flow and increases velocity through the carb. Brandon

I agree, you kinda lose the fun factor. Hell the +4 is marginal. With good suspension setup, +4 is a gods plenty for a 350 motor. Thing you need to remember is you sacrifice traction with the long swing. This is why we would comp a +8 swing or more with more aggressive paddles. Also, by installing aftermarket A-arms with the +1 forward on a banshee helps calm them down as well. Two birds with one stone if you ask me. We build a lot of "ridable" bikes here I guess. Brandon

here is one

We have a customer looking for a project banshee or maybe just a cheaper running banshee. Complete bike or project bike considered. Price is negotiable. Brandon

A 10 mill crank with stock rod and 2mm correction factor for cylinder lift is around 140 degrees. I would not bring the piston out more than 3mm. This was assuming stock port timing. The 7mm crank puts you at around 130 with only .5mm correction which is more livable as long as other ports carry suit to allow proper blowdown. Brandon

Thanks for the pics. I will put that in the file. The stock banshee is about 44mm or 114 degrees but factory chamfer varies greatly and will affect timing. Hope that helps. Brandon

If you have a bunch of maps for the RZ, could you float those over to us? We never did really document the different maps relative to the castings. Thanks Brandon

Many times, the tail light will not blow due to higher resistance. Check voltage at yellow wire from stator at idle and 4-5K rpms and go from there. Sounds like your problems are not at the stator but somewhere else. Brandon

And I think you missed the day that they taught port timing 101. Raising the cylinders will increase port timing thus make things worse. He has a very valid reason for considering 7mm vs 10mm. You are obviously bogging on someone that has sense enough to "check" port timing and verify that indeed, target numbers are out the window and optimal flow will not be seen. There are a bunch of banshees that run big cranks but many have "stroker" sleeves that have a taller barrel that the head locks in to and have relocated ports for the big stroke. A big waste of time compared to a PV cheetah though. 4stroker, yes the 4mm is as big as you can go with optimal port timing. The 7mm can be done but you have to stack base gaskets and further increase timing to get it done. Worth it though but I would not even do a 10mm on a stock cylinder anymore. Just not enough blow down and not worth it. Brandon

Brian is dead on. Blaster pistons on a stock rod banshee crank would be 5mm below deck. Keep in mind that we put in the blaster piston to compensate for the extra 5mm of a 115mm rod so the deck would be nearly even. I agree that the total cylinder height needs measured as well as actual neg piston travel past deck. This helps narrow it down. Trinity very possibly decked the bottom of the cylinders to correct an over ported cylinder. This can have bad effects on the bottom of the ports and cylinder flow will suffer big time. You also need to measure the stroke of the engine to rule things out. buy a digital caliper and go to work. With this strange deal, I HIGHLY recommend you have a porting expert inspect to see what has been done and what is the right setup for those cylinders!! You may also call us and we can tell you what to measure to find out what is going on. Brandon

You know jeff, I had one do just that!! Trans locked hard. Guess if I was going to leave out the E clips, I would want some insurance on those soft plugs. IE, mechanical retainers or something. Brandon

Depending on what type of zap you are getting will determine where the problem is. Anything after the ignition coil will be boosted to around 5-k volts. Now that has minimal wattage but it would still knock your dick in the dirt. Might be looking for leakage from a coil wire to the steering stem. You will want to run a wire from true ground to your suspect area while running and see if that kills the bike. Sounds like you have a hot chassis or sub chassis now. Possibly the key switch?? You have something touching the bars that is not grounding and it be comes just like an uninsulated wire. Like I say, if you take that to true ground and it kills the bike, you know you have "hot bars". Brandon

Well, I kinda agree. I guess they could advertise 1k rpm rev limit increase but that might take too much paper. I agree that it matter nill that the cdi will "allow" more rpm for limiting if the motor falls off of power way before hand. I find this MUCH more useful in four pokes. Hondas were always too low to make power. Brandon

Yessa, sounds like electrics from here. One thing to try is removing your air filter for a test. Note any change. Sounds like you need to look at the electrics to start with. pickup coil, plug wires and caps. Is it smoking bad? when did it start? Brandon

depending on how bad things are slipping, I will say go mark a line on your wheel and tire and go ride. I think your tires may be slipping on the wheels. Brandon

I have not bought yet but working with someone to get these items. Also need 3 ball joint castle nuts. Hoping I can score an all in one deal I guess. Brandon

Man I think that shock is what is going to be so hard to find. The fact that I only need one that is. Brandon

OH, sorry, I really only needed the extension tube, not the ends. I have those. Thanks though. Brandon

We are flipping a front end back to stock and need 1 stock front shock with a white spring, and 1 stock tie rod. Need this stuff pretty quick. Let me know if you can help. I need decent stuff, not junk. Thanks Brandon