blowit

WEll yeah, the pics don't help but you way want to look at having a porting guy check the ports for proper chamfer or even just port the cylinders to fix your problems. I with many of our customers, we port the bad spots away when working the exhaust port. I strongly recommend a pro look at your issue to see why it hung a ring in both cylinders. a super loose motor can do it but you need to know what happened. Brandon

You hit the nail directly. We call this riding a pogo stick. Yep, your shock is shit. Replace it. And the one you bought is shit to. Even at there fastest setting, they should offer some rebound damping. If you have tried all the settings on it and nothing works, go get another shock. Brandon

not really. We have used both. different parts. brandon

clockwise to increase idle. Brandon

The bike probably will not idle until warm. If it still will not, that is a lean condition on the pilot circuit. This is assuming you have tried "adjusting" the idle with the flat head screws on the carb tops?? Also, there are small brass screws on the sides of the carbs at the filter side. Those should be tuned for best idle. .5-2.5 turns out. If nothing works, remove carb bowls and clean pilot jets. Brandon

NO B

If you mean plugged "in" , yes, unplug it. That will have no affect on da response but should allow it to idle if the TORS system is hacked up. Word. B

As long as the black box above the LH cylinder is unplugged, you are fine. Remember that there are "plugs" on these devices. Cutting them will do little good over simply unplugging them. If you have any problems at part throttle, it is not the TORS. Brandon

aight T-daddy, you are hittn me with new words there, but is sounds like your TORS box is either unplugged or full of dirt and could use a good cleaning. If it is actually plugged in, unplug it. If everything work great eksept when you let off the go lever, it is very likely the TORS. Sorry, cool not resist messn. Brandon

Holysh%&. You wanted to make sure that crank was lubed huh? Well, since you have already run it, I would do what is about and run it out and change the plugs. Also checking the carbon after is not a bad idea either but should not carbon up in that short amount of time. That usually takes higher engine temps and prolonged oil use. You will not hurt the bottom end or blow any seals but I bet the neighbors will love you. Brandon

We do not have the outerwears available right now but I could swing 15 bucks off per kit for the HQ guys if that helps. Just let me know about my "discount". 13bturbofc, maybe I can help you out somewhere down the road. Brandon

That is telltale of piston slap and excessive wear. Those babies don;t just pop for no reason. Now just hope the crank is OK. Brandon

Not at this time. They are rare to find used unless someone is going to big carbs. Brandon

Glad we could help and glad you like them. We would love to make that kit a bit cheaper but those darn V-stacks are not cheap but worth every penny. They do a great job of organizing air flow into the carbs. We just have not sucked up the R&D cost to build something for bigger carbs yet. Some day soon I hope. Brandon

You will obviously need to tear your motor down but for reference, the intake side must always be inspected because the intake side of the piston is the weakest and prone to breakage and cracking. Never assume things are fine by looking in the exhaust. Of coarse it is best to just tear down and full inspect. Brandon

yep

Too early to tell and not enough info but pull the plugs and start there. If it rolls in neutral, that generally points to the motor. rod bearing went awol. New engine in your future. Brandon

Not to add insult but we just had a Rappy in the shop that the customer had cleaned the carbs 3 times. We cleaned them and it ran great. All I need to say is pilot jets!! Brandon

Just does not sound electrical. Air leak or carb blockage it sounds. If course reed damage can do strange things as well. Brandon

I would have to guess on your timing but I will bet things will be fine by running 795s and no plate. I will also check the numbers on piston acceleration as that will be something to look at. Brandon

Yes it will change the timing but not much. I can get exact figures tomorrow but if you really want things to stay exactly the same, you may want to take a hair off the thickness of the spacer and comp that in the squish. maybe someone else want to run the numbers but it would help to know your timing now or port heights. Brandon

Yue really need to try that propane trick for air leaks. If nothing shows up, it is probably in the carb. You must also swap the plug wires to make sure it is not electrical. If the problem stays on the RH side, it is not ignition. Remember the clear the jets in the carb. That pop is most likely lean pop. Brandon

did you by chance do any painting? Gotta watch the grounds. You will find your answer with your meter. If the stator specs show good as well as coil, you can move ahead to pulser coil gap to flywheel, and grounds. black/white stripe should not go to ground unless to kill the bike so find one and test to ground. Also make sure engine grounds to chassis. It will bet it is something simple. Just keep shopping. Also make sure the blade connectors to the coil are tight. You can override the TORS for testing for fire by simply holding the throttle down a bit. The TORS only does its job at idle conditions. Brandon

I will agree that my comments sounded rather rude and I apologize for that. It's simply that many here have experienced your situation first hand and a few bucks in gaskets or making that one last ride can cost you a whole lot more. It will only take a bit of your time and some gaskets to open it and know for sure what is going on. 75psi is too low to be considered usable. I highly recommend at least having it tested with another tester. It is also pretty easy to remove the carbs and reeds and take a peek. Good luck. Brandon

Just run er till she blows. That's the way to do it. At least in my business, I get to benefit from that way of thinking. Brandon