FireHead

Word. I have run arms from of those plaves and they are all great. Here are a couple more: Janssen (Fireball) Quick Sand Custom Creations

You could also replace the o-ring on the plastic cover if the cover is not broken. :thumbsup:

I knew what you meant............ Folks from the UK and their prison colony (small joke) call an electrical ground, earth. :geek:

No Bus generally mean you have lost one of the CAN bus's. More than likely it's the J1939 bus and a ECM, wiring, or one of the components on the bus is causing the problem. You need to get someone with an OBD capable service tool to plug into and see what else you have for fault codes. That should easily point you at what is actually bad. :geek:

Cascade Innovations in Boring, OR should have anything you might need for a Banshee. :thumbsup: ............except for DMC anything.

Those should be fine on that stock arm. :cool:

..........and paste eating. Me too! However, I won't be doing it because I bought a crappy plastic shell helmet. :biggrin:

I believe it has a glass/aramid shell, which is where the extra cost comes from......... :geek:

.........are you kidding? $400 is the bottom end of the helmet market that caters to qualtiy pieces of safety equipment. Generally, the "legal" helmets have a plastic outside shell and are just that: legal. If you barely drop one of those you need to probably replace it. How much is your head worth to you? The head is still one of those things that can't be that easily fixed once you break it. If you do break and don't die, then there is a good chance you are going to be getting coloring books for Christmas for the rest of your life.

That thing is pretty hot. I like it!............ and I normally don't care too much about helmets, except to make sure they are sufficiently nice enough to be comfortable and protect my melon. :biggrin:

Bump for a great guy! :thumbsup:

The Galfer units are Blanchard ground at have the mounting bolt pads milled below the braking surface. $75 is a good deal. Like I said, if you want the couple extra features Galfer's rotors offer, you have to pay another $40......... :beer:

Word. :geek:

You are correct. :cool:

Cascade has them. The chrome they put on them is the best you can get. :geek:

The material and heat treatment of the material probably differs between the two, but the greater difference in my mind is the blanchard grinding of the Galfer rotors after they have been cut and milled. :geek:

That's what I've done.......... :geek:

JD's look nice, but I am afraid that the Galfer rotors are better............. though they are much more expensive. :geek:

The trade name is flex hone.

Glamis, Dumont, Pismo, etc. ar pretty easy on flags. I only broke a couple down there after not landing a couple big jump very cleanly........... and those were the crappy fishing pole poles with the el cheapo collet nut holder things. :geek:

I have a Firestick for my truck and it is pretty nice. The Stiffy products tend to be more popular with the SoCal crowd. :geek:

If you ride around trees or do any jumping, those things are worthless. You would be better off just breaking you flag stick in half before you leave the trailer.

Cascade's latest holder design is the best out there........ However, their older design was crap. You can find it on their website. Otherwise, the holders from Stiffy (S&M Fabrication) are what I use.

Take the shock apart. Part of the rod on a lathe. Shorten, the through-rod hardware accordingly, and then reassemble. :geek:

I have rund the Comp. and Hillshooter Marvin's in the dunes and if you ride pretty hard, then they will heat up and fade, which turns them into pogo sticks. I only ever ran a Marvin coil-over on the rear of my old drag bike, the only catch was that it was long and low, so you couldn't really dune it.