FireHead

I have shared that exact feeling with them several times, but that was mostly because they are all in different places, so really the ATV, Mountain Bike, and Off-road folks proabably only heard it once each. :biggrin:

This is more of a DIY project than the stock cylinders deal is. :geek:

You should buy the hell out of that for persona lrecreational usage. :biggrin:

Yeah, you can remover the stingers on these as well. I suppose these are going to be eBay bound.

Maybe I misread it, but I think they were calling Beverly, "The Crack."

Internally Fox is organixed into different business units that are not even all in the same state. The mountain bike, truck, snowmobile, and ATV shocks are all done by different groups and they are quite different with regards to service, unfortunately. :geek:

......................yeah I haven't bought any of them. I just saw them in thei catalog. Personally, I took my boots off because I thought they looked gay, but I did use them for a bit. I think I agree with you regarding th boots trapping sand and such in the joint. :thumbsup:

You have something over-pressurizing the cooling system such as a failed water pump seal, head gasket, or cylinder bas gasket. That's really the only way you get the problem you have. :geek:

They are different I think. You may want to get the numbers off the bearings and verify that though. :geek:

I was simply trying to figure out how much higher the cap was going to be than an OEM cap, but it looks like someone else answered my question.

...............that answered my question. I was afraid that the cap was going to foul the rear edge of the hole in the Fullbores. :geek:

When you approach the Pingel dual feed valve from the prime position and reach out to actuate it with your main finger, which way is on? Left or Right? I know it's a silly question, but I am trying to use one of these things for something else and I do not have a way to verify the info. :geek: I'll explain the prime postion and main finger thing later. :biggrin:

Ahhhhhhhh, I was going to say size 4. I suspect Brandon is correct as I just made my answer up. :biggrin:

It's not all that impressive, in fact, it's not really even my idea...........................,but anyway its basically a piece of solid bar that slides inside a bit larger piece of tubing. Then, you fasten some rubber to the end of the bar and drill holes to suit your valving needs. After that, fill the tube with grease and assemble. As long as you do not over extend your new shock absorber it will work well enough to start and a finish a few SAE Mini Baja events. Fine tuning can be done with grease viscosity, but it is alot easier to poke more holes in or plug up holes in your "piston." A couple of fun trivia questions on this topic: 1.) What was the first automotive application for a grease-draulic shock absorber? 2.) What is the most well know vehicle to use this type of shock absorber? 3.) What is a modern day, common application for this shock absorber? :geek:

Am I asking too much for these or is there not any demand for them? Some feedback would be greatly aprreciated. :thumbsup:

That's cool, whenver you get a chance. I found another project or two to keep me busy this weekend. :thumbsup:

Word. You could also clean up the inside of the cover really well and put a thin layer of JB Weld over the leaking seam.

Another pic.................. :cool:

I am figuring $100 + the ride is pretty fair. What do you think?

No worries regarding the hi-jacking. I do it to folks all the time.

Anyone.........................................?

FYI: if your interested, they make aluminum and titanium bodied heims as well. I know you can get them from Aurora, but I am sure others make them as well.

Can I get a set of struts made out of cheese? :biggrin: This thread is probably dead enough that we can talk about my grease-draulic shock absorbers. I'll see if anyone bitches and about this and post something about them later. :geek:

They also make a rubber condom thing for the heim joints. Several of us have them on here and that's where we got them from. I would steer clear of an aluminum heim for the lower a-arm, I doubt they would last long in that application. Additionally, I some how doubt the ballt joint or heim for that matter are entirely aluminum. The ball of the joint would have to be steel or plastic I would think.

I have a set of CPI Small Bore In-Frame Silencers with the chrome stingers for sale. I am not sure if this is something anyone is interested in or not. They are used, but not abused and are in great shape. I had them on my red bike for about three years (which doesn't get ridden much and I think only in the sand during that time). If there is interest in this, then I can cough up as many pictures as anyone wants and conjur a price for them. If you are the creative sort, you can offer me something for them as well. :biggrin: