racer

id like to go, but ill be in stillwater.

my next door neighbor is a cop and we ride together. everytime we get pulled over he talks abunch of shit with his helmet on, to the poit of being cuffed, then removes his helmet and fucks around with the other officer. its hilarious.

your dealer may know, around here they do anyways.

wow shit. i just got back from the ER with 20 stitches. that mother was 2inches long and went straight to the bone. but its still on VIDEO!

i just endo'd my go kart. it slammed my head into the cage (no helmet ), and split that wide open. im fine. and its all on video!!!!!!!!!!!!!

maybe youve lost your nitrogen charge in that one side. that may account for the slow rebound.

not only camber, but caster as well.

youve got the right idea, but your geometry if you follow this plan will be thoroughly fucked. the arm is in fact triangulated to the ball joint. so to lengthen the hypotenuse (the forward side) as well adjacent side (rear, outward facing member) without adjusting the angle where the two sides meet the pivot shaft will only make the two came together at the same exact spot. now to accurately lengthen the arm's effective length the angles at the pivot will have to be determined to compensate for the extra distance. if you had the blueprint, or even better a CAD drawing, of the arm it would be simple geometric equations. but since you don't, or i don't think you do, the easiest way would be to reconfigure those two members entirely. but at that point why not upgrade to a replaceable ball joint like are in most aftermarket arms, since it is only the act of welding in a threaded bung, then screwing the joint in. that brings us to the next weak point, the pivot tube(s). since everything else has already been replaced, why not these? and since youre in there, use heim joints instead of bushings for ease of construction, plus the added benefit or adjustable caster. so, after youve done even half of that, you might as well replace the whole thing. plus welding to yamaha factory steel is scary, like using butter to solder, just not strong.

a good set of picks are worth their weight in gold. when removing circlips heres the one i use most often: its got two 45* angles in a complex fashion that are perfect for those things.

this is the best way ove ever seen to hack your cages to be exactly even. if you have access to the tools. http://pstuning.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=896

try just making one if you cant buy it. or go to a dealer and have the parts dude match your shit up. 9 times out of 10, they will have something very similar.

bottom left frame rail, just ahead of the foot peg. EDIT: when i say left, i mean the side with the shift lever. since left is a relative term.

good luck finding parts. milo is right. they just didnt have the infrastructure to back it up.

.063 and where the fuck are my initials?

stephen, are you bringing your girlfriend?

no shittin brad. that stuff kinda blows my mind a lil. thats for the right up yall!

ive ridden many a 450r and feel the exact same way as you do bfs. Sredish's on the other hand may be a different story, but his isnt ed zackery stock.

np, i finally came up with a picture of my LT design. it sucks, but i think youll get the point.

i missed that shit in the theatres. post up when it comes out!

hmmm.

that shit works. but in answer to your Q, not enough.

$150

whew, good. these fellas got you on the right track.

if you dont wannt buy a compressor, you cant use a bunch of hose clamps. wrap for or five through the coils and tightren evenly till you have enough room to remove the coil hat.

HERE - click me